Ascent Certificate for Zarechnaya peak via the South-West ridge

cat. 2A diff. 1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­sky ridge, Chyorny Irkut valley, section 2. 2. Zarechnaya peak, 2400 m, via the West ridge. 3. Category 2A, first ascent. 4. Route type — rocky. 5. Height difference 200 m, length 400 m, average slope 30°. 6. Pitons hammered: rocky and ... 7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route.

Route description to Zarechnaya peak via the South-West ridge, cat. 2A diff.

Zarechnaya peak is located in the westernmost part of the Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, rises above the Bely Irkut and Chyorny Irkut rivers, on the 1st (orographic) bank of Chyorny Irkut, on the opposite side of the road. Approach from the cafe along the aufeis to the confluence, along the slope — taiga and grassy, to the rocks; height difference — 5 m 0–1 60 m, 35°, 1+ Left to right along a three-tiered ledge. 1–2 12 m. Sporty descent. 2–3 150 m, 35°, 1 — along ledges, initially left, then up. 3–4 60 m, 35°, 1 — along the ridge. 4–5 50 m, 45°, 2+ Deteriorated limestone outcrops with limited contact along cracks. Crossing left upwards above the abyss, psychologically unpleasant, 3 pitons. Crucial section. Use anchor pitons. 5–6 20 m, 30°, 1+ Left of the ridge. 6–7 30 m, 2 — Traverse right along rocks through the ridge. Descent to a ledge. General view of Zarechnaya peak from the Bely Irkut valley.

Zarechnaya 2400

Ascent passport to v. Kazak, 2507 m, via the Southern ridge, cat. III.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Bryanskogo (Vetryany district) valley, section 6.1.2. 2. Kazak peak (2507) via the Southern ridge. 3. Proposed category: III, first ascent. 4. The nature of the route is rocky. 5. Height difference 457 m, length 800 m, average slope 37°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 17 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 5 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route. 9. Group: Afanasyev A.E. MS Vorobyov P.Yu. 3rd sports category Geydarov K.G. 2nd sports category Marchukov K.F. 2nd sports category Rasskazov D.V. 3rd sports category Senatorov A.V. 3rd sports category Tashlykov V.A. 3rd sports category

Brief Geographical Description of the Area

The peak Moygota is located in the main ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountain range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching 200 km in a latitudinal direction. The highest point of the ridge reaches 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym gorge. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms with deep gorges and wide glacial cirques. For over 100 km - from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west - the ridge has many peaks of great interest to climbers.

• The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1800 m, and on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m.
• The snow cover almost completely melts by the end of summer.
• Glaciation is found only in the western part of the ridge. Moygota peak has an elevation of about 2883 m above sea level. The nearest settlements - Arshan and Tagarhay - are 25–30 km away. Access is via a dirt road to the Moygota gorge, then a 4-hour ascent up the gorge to the base camp at the forest boundary. From the base camp at the forest boundary:
• 2 hours up the gorge to the first lake at the fork in the gorge.
• The ridge dividing the upper reaches of the gorge is the southern ridge to Mt. Moygota.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy, Moygoty Gorge. 3. Mt. Moygota, height 2832 m. Route via South Ridge. 4. Re-certified to category 3B difficulty. 5. Height difference: 650 m. Average steepness: 20°. Section lengths: 1st category — 200 m, 2nd category — 80 m, 3rd category — 600 m, 4th category — 80 m, 5th category — 6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: Rock — 12 pcs. 7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours 8. No overnight stays. 9. Group composition: BOGOMOLOV S.G. — CMS, FILIPPOVA T. — CMS

Ascent passport to v. Nedobraya 2676 m, via the southern ridge, cat. 2B, diff. cat.

1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Ba­run Khan­da­gai valley, section 6.1. 2. Peak Nedobraya (2676 m) via the Southern ridge. 3. Proposed category 2B, first ascent. 4. Character of the route is rocky. 5. Height difference 250 m, length 520 m, average slope 30°. 6. Driven pitons: rock and заклад­ных 7 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 6 hours. 8. No overnight stays on the route. no. 9. Group: Afanasiev A. E. MS Volodov A. N. 3rd sp. разряд Geidarov K. G. 3rd sp. разряд Emelyanov S. M. 3rd sp. разряд Rozhin A. Yu. 3rd sp. разряд Tashlykov V. A. 3rd sp. разряд
2. Coach Afanasiev A. E., MS
3. Ascent to the summit and return on August 15, 2008.

Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of the Area

The Barun-Khandagai valley is located in the Tunka Alps, 18 km from the Arshan settlement. Due to the lack of a trail in the valley, it is more convenient to access it through the Zun-Khandagai valley, which has an excellent trail, and then descend into Barun-Khandagai via a pass near the Dinosaur peak. Approach times:

• To the first overnight stay (from the beginning of the valley) — 8 hours
• Through the pass to the assault camp — 6 hours (see the map) The Zun-Khandagai valley has classified routes:
• on the Soan peak 20 and 46
• on the Dinosaur peak 4A (unclassified)
• traverse of the Eagle Khandagai 4B.

Brief Geographical Overview of the SOAN Peak Area

The SOAN peak (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The ridge is clearly stretched from west to east for 150 km and approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Streams and rivers flowing from the ridge flow into:

• to the south (in the Tunka valley) — into the Irkut River,
• to the north (in the Kitoi valley) — into the Kitoi River. Kitoi and Irkut are left tributaries of the Angara River. The Tunka valley has many mineral springs, one of which is Arshan, which has gained all-Union fame. The wildlife in the area is rich and diverse. The Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge is located on the territory of the Buryat ASSR. The SOAN peak is located in the upper reaches of the Zun-Khandagai River gorge.

Climatological Information

Ascent Record

Climbing category: technical. Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunka Ridge. Route: first ascent via the central counterfort of the eastern wall of the Northern tower of v. Trekhglavaya. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 55°. Number of pitons: rock 23 pcs., ice none, bolted none. Duration 9 hours. Number of bivouacs: none. Leader: Akhmedzhanov S.N., 1st sports category. Team members: Belov S.V., 1st sports category; Galygo A.N., 1st sports category; Donskoy K.D., 1st sports category; Zuev V.A., 1st sports category; Savin V.V., 1st sports category. Team coach: Popov V.N., Master of Sports, instructor. Date of ascent: March 4, 1980, Irkutsk ¹

Footnotes

1. www.alpfederation.ru ↩

Ascent Log

Ascent Category: Technical Region: Eastern Sayan, Tunka Ridge Route: North edge of the North tower of Trekhglaaya peak 2511 m ASL Ascent Description: elevation gain: 670 m, average steepness: 50°, difficult section: 220 m. Pitons driven: rock: 17 pcs, ice: none, bolt: none Number of travel hours: 14 h. No overnight stays on the route. Team: Sports club "Bratsk" Leader: Trubnikov V. I., Master of Sports of the USSR Participants: Moskalev G. A., Candidate for Master of Sports, Kriulin V. K., 1st sports category, Koltygin S. F., 2nd sports category Team Coach: Trubnikov V. I. Ascent Date: May 12, 1976

	Route traversed by the group
===	Route 4A cat. diff. (traverse)
===	Route 2B cat. diff. via E. edge
	control cairn
Map of the ascent area. Table of route section characteristics.

Report

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.