ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR

CS DSO "Burevestnik" Championship in Alpinism 1969, High-Altitude Climbing Class

Peak Pravda (6500 m) via the Western Counterfort (approx. 5B cat. diff.)

TEAM OF THE LOCAL COMMITTEE OF THE CHELYABINSK POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE. Chelyabinsk, 1969 Peak Pravda (6400 m) is located in the center of the northwestern Pamir in the Akademiya Nauk Range, on the territory of the Tajik SSR. This region is the most elevated part of the Pamir. Here, particularly favorable conditions are created for the formation and accumulation of ice, which in the form of glaciers slides down the slopes of the ridges and peaks, filling the valleys (Fedchenko, Fortambek, Garmo, etc.). The snow line in this area is approximately at an altitude of 4000–4500 m. The climate in the region is sharply continental with sharp temperature fluctuations from winter to summer, from day to night. The high altitude and considerable technical complexity make Peak Pravda an excellent mountain in alpinist terms, and the ascent via the most difficult route—the western counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier—represents significant sporting interest. In 1968, a group of climbers ascended this route:

Ascent Passport

2. Ascent area — П3. Pamir, Akademiya Nauk range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Pik Pravda, 6400 m, via the non-central counterfort of the western wall along the western ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5Б
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 5050 — 6400 (1350 m), average steepness — 60°, length of sections: Iк.тр. — 130 m, Пк.тр. — 80 m, Пк.тр. — 160 m, IVк.тр. — 470 m, Vк.тр. — 720 m, VIк.тр. — 50 m
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying: rock — 79, ice — 10, bolt — none
7. Number of walking hours to the summit — 31 hours

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb.
2. North-West Pamir, Bivachny Glacier.
3. Pik Rossia, 6878 m, center of the SE wall.
4. Proposed - 6B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain - 2052 m, length - 2332 m. Length of sections 5-6B - 1615 m. Average steepness of main sections: 47° snow-ice slope (4800-5600 m), 70° wall (5600-6750 m), 30° pre-summit ridge (6750-6852 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 219 bolts - chocks 29 ice 82

Ascent

to the peak Russia via the Southeast ridge (first ascent) by the team of Moscow City Council of the DSO “Spartak”

Central Pamir, 1972

Map of the area

From August 1 to 10, 1972, the Central Council of the Spartak society conducted an expedition of climbers in the area of Peak Communism. Due to a delay in the helicopter, the expedition found itself in a very difficult situation, as the valleys of the Muksu and Sauk-sai rivers with numerous tributaries presented a serious obstacle even for a caravan, let alone the transportation of goods by people. The caravan did not have the necessary number of horses, and time was clearly insufficient. Transporting five hundred kilograms of food and equipment by horse to the confluence of the Bivachny and Fedchenko glaciers for an expedition of over fifty people did not change the situation much. The base camp on the Bivachny glacier (3900 m) was only established on July 24, and the route planned for the USSR championship had to be changed. A new route, never before attempted, was chosen - the Southeast ridge of Peak Russia (6852 m).

Brief characteristics of the area

The Central Pamir is bounded to the north by the Muksu River and to the south by the Bartang River. To the east, the area is bounded by the Zulumart range, and to the west by the western spurs of the Petra Pervogo and Darvaz ranges, as well as the Pyanj River near Khorog. The relief of the Central Pamir is heavily dissected. It is home to:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude
2. Climbing area — Central Pamir
3. Climbing route — p. Rossii (6878 m) via the southeastern wall
4. Climbing characteristics: altitude difference — 2200 m average steepness — 62° length of complex sections — 1400 m
5. Pitons used: rock pitons — 104

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — High-altitude
2. Ascent area, ridge — Akademii Nauk Ridge, Central Pamir
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Rossiya 6852 m via the Bastion on the SE wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics:
   1. Height difference — 2050 m, Bastion height difference — 1150 m, "lap" — 800 m
   2. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1460 m
   3. Average steepness of the "lap" — 55°, average steepness of the Bastion — 75–80°, average steepness of the route — 70°
6. Number of pitons: for belaying: rock — 236, ice — 7, "chocks" — 40; for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO) — 10

Burevestnik Central Sports Council Alpine Championship, high-altitude class CENTRAL PAMIR. ACADEMY OF SCIENCES RANGE. PIK ROSSIA (6852 m). Via the bastion of the south-eastern wall. Team from the Irkutsk Regional Council of the Burevestnik Sports Society. Second ascent of the route. Irkutsk, 1980.

Ascent Details

1. Ascent class — high-altitude
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, starting from the Bivachny Glacier

Central Pamir

PIK ROSSII

6878 m

ASCENT REPORT

of the ascent by the team of Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee along the center of the Western wall Team leader, coach Efimov S.B. MS "Burevestnik". Team members:

• Samoylin M.A. MS "Burevestnik"
• Lebedikhin A.V. MS "Burevestnik"
• Vinogradsky E.M. MS "Burevestnik"

416

Description

Ascent route to Sandal Peak (6150 m) via the NE ridge from Maly Tanymas Glacier (first ascent) Group composition:

1. Volynets G.I. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports.
2. Mikhailov A.A. — participant, 1st category.
3. Efimov S.D. — participant, 1st category.
4. Yakovlev G.S. — participant, 1st category.

Route timeline

The route was completed from August 3 to 8, 1967, in 45 hours of climbing time by a sports group from the Sverdlovsk Pamir Expedition, starting from the base camp at 3450 m on Maly Tanymas Glacier.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: