REPORT on the ascent to the summit "ALAUDIN" via the southern counterfort (4A cat. diff.)

2. Group Composition

1. Sandalov I.S. (leader) 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Kr-sk
2. Loginov B.M. 1949, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
3. Trofimov A.A. 1946, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk
4. Burlakov Yu.P. 1947, 2nd sports category, "Spartak", Krasnoyarsk

3. Equipment

1. Main ropes 2 × 40 m, 1 × 60 m
2. Repschnur 1 × 10 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent region, range — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — mt. ALAUDIN, 4237 m, via the left wall. First ascent.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 650 m, length of sections with 5th-6th difficulty category — 200 m, average steepness — 58°
6. Pitons driven:

Peak Amshut (4850 m) via the West Face, Cat. 4B

The group set out at 9:00 from the assault camp (Amput Pass, approx. 4000 m) for the first ascent of Amshut Peak via the west face. Rounding the steeply dropping walls of Amshut via scree and snow, we reach a saddle from which the route begins. The saddle is lower than the pass level. Here, we set up the 1st control cairn. Section #1. From Cairn #1, we face "ram's foreheads" with a steepness of 45–50°. The 70-meter ascent is initially done with alternate belays, then one rope is fixed as a handrail, and it ends at a ledge before the wall. Two pitons are hammered in. Section #2. From the ledge, we climb 8 meters straight up the wall with a steepness of 80–85°. Then, we move left under the overhanging outer corner into a narrow, long cleft. When transitioning from one wall to another, we're thrown

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the Central North wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B, second ascent
5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain 978 m, average steepness 73°, technical sections 80°, route length 1197 m and sections by difficulty category (m) | Difficulty Category | Length (m) | | :------------------ | :--------- | | 1 | — |

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the N wall 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B category 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:

• R1 — 300 m
• R2 — 150 m
• R4 — 370 m

Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude technical.
2. Climbing region — Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Bodhona — 5302 m via the right part of the West face (Senchin – Konchin route).
4. Difficulty category — 6.
5. Height difference: from the base of the wall to the summit 1400 m. Average steepness of the wall 80°. Length of sections with 6th category difficulty — 600 m.
6. Number of pitons: rock — 284.
7. Total climbing hours — 4930 hours.
8. Number of nights on the route — 3 nights.
9. Team composition:

On simple rocks, 60 m straight up to the first control cairn in a rope team. From the cairn, on black monolithic rocks of medium difficulty, 80 m straight up to the base of a pronounced inner corner. Then:

• 40 m to the right of the corner on rocks of above average difficulty;
• then bypassing a black-rigid spall on the right;
• exit to the ridge of the buttress. Protection is by pitons. Further along the left side of the ridge:
• 40 m on rocks of medium difficulty;
• 80 m on easy rocks — exit left under a 10-meter chimney. After the chimney — move right into an inner corner and 40 m of climbing of medium difficulty — exit to the ridge of the buttress under a gendarme with a red rock on it.

PASSPORT

1. Technical category.
2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range. /Northern part./ Alaudin Lakes.
3. p. Zamok (5070) via the right part of the northern wall of the "bastion"
4. cat. III (Arkhipov's route)
5. Height difference 1270 m, route length — 2142 m. Length of sections — R0–R1 cat. III — 851 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78°
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Pamiro-Alai, Zeravshan ridge, Fann Mountains. 5.3.1
2. v. Parandas 4250 m via the center of the North face
3. First ascent, proposed 6A category of complexity
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference: 850 m, wall part 780 m.
6. Route length 1280 m, main part 890 m. Sections of 6th category 470 m. Sections of 5th category 180 m. Average steepness of the wall part 80°.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — TECHNICAL 2. Ascent Region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS 3. Ascent Route — Ushba North (4694 m) VIA NORTH-EAST FACE through the "STOLB" (pillar) 4. Presumed Difficulty Category — 6th cat. diff. 5. Route Characteristics: ELEVATION GAIN

• 1150 m EXTENT OF SECTIONS I and II cat. diff.
• 620 m