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Route Description: С ребру
First ascent description of Peak Vizbor (4850 m) in the Turkestan Range via the North Edge, difficulty category 5B.
I. Climbing category: technical.
- Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range.
- Summit: 4850 m (Vizbor Peak) via the northern edge, combined.
- Estimated complexity category: 5A
- Route characteristics: height difference — 650 m; length of sections 5–6 c/tr — 190 m; average steepness of the route's rocky part — 55°.
- Pitons hammered: for belaying — 30 (6), chocks — 40.
- Duration: 20 hours.
- Camping: comfortable, on ridges — 2.
- Team members: Kavunenko Vladimir Dmitrievich — MSMK Grakovich Valentin Fedorovich — MS, Korolev Alexey Vladimirovich — CMS, Lisetsky Vladimir Anatolyevich — CMS
Route Description: 3 гребню
Ascent record of Peak Dostoyevsky (4974 m) via the Western Ridge, grade 4B, first ascent.
Ascent Passport
I. Technical category. 2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley. 3. Peak Dostoevskogo 4974 m via the western ridge. 4. The route is combined, first ascent, category 4B complexity approximately. 5. Height difference: 1080 m Average steepness — 33°. Route length — 2270 m 5. Rock pitons hammered — 27 pcs. ice screws — 4 pcs. Used chocks — 9 pcs.
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Ascent of Peak Dostoevsky (4974 m) via the East Ridge, a combined 4B grade route, first ascent.
I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Ak-su valley 3. Peak Dostoyevsky (4974 m) via the East ridge, combined 4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent 5. Height difference 570 m, length 1320 m. Length of sections category 4 — 280 m, category 5 — 40 m. Average slope of the route 27°, average slope of the couloir 30°, average slope of the ridge 20°, slope of the summit tower wall 60° 6. Pitons driven: rock 40, chockstones 30 7. Climbing hours — 19, days — 2 8. Overnight stay: 1st on a site prepared on a snowy ridge 9. Leader: Viktor Pruss, 1st sports category. Participants: Serafim Vasiliev, 1st sports category. Valentin Litskevich, 1st sports category. Izolda Shaginyan, Master of Sports of the USSR 10. Coach: Yuri Kozlov, Master of Sports of the USSR
Route Description: правому кф. ЮЗ стены
Technical ascent description of 5A category difficulty to Peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky) in Pamir-Alay via the right counterfort of the wall.
- Climbing category — technical.
- Climbing region, range — Pamiro-Alay, Turkestan.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak 4974 (F. Dostoevsky), via the right counterfort of the SW wall.
- Proposed difficulty category — 5A, combined.
- Route characteristics: elevation gain — 620 m length of 5–6 sections — 130 m, average steepness — 45°
- Pitons used: for belaying — 60 (rock) for creating artificial holds — 8
Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the ascent made by the team from Moscow on Peak Iskander (5120 m) via the South Face in 2011, describing a category 6A route.
Russian Championship in Alpinism. Altitude Class
Report on the Ascent of Peak Iskander via the South Face
Team from Moscow 2011
| 5. Height difference of the route: 1030 m, wall 625 m (by altimeter) |
| Route length: 1320 m |
| Length of sections: V cat. diff. — 345 m, VI cat. diff. — 245 m |
| Average steepness: |
Route Description: СЗ канту
Peak Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge, combined route, cat. 5B, second ascent.
Ascent Passport I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-su gorge. 3. Peak S.Iskander (5000 m) via the northwest edge. 4. Second ascent, combined 5B category of difficulty. 5. Height difference — 1000 m, length — 1330 m. Height difference of the wall section — 750 m. Length of the wall section — 830 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 65°. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 255 m, 6th category of difficulty — 320 m. 6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |
Route Description: правой части В стены
Route passport for a category 6A climb to the summit of Iskander S. (5000 m) via the right part of the East Face, followed by a traverse of Iskander Gl. and Petrogradets peaks.
Ascent Passport
38a
- Ascent class — traverse class
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su gorge
- Iskander S. (5000 m) via the right part of the Eastern wall, first ascent — Iskander Gl. (5120 m) — Petrovgradets (5163 m)
- Complexity category — approximately 6A category, first ascent
- Height difference of Iskander S. Eastern wall — 950 m
- including the wall section — 460 m Length of Iskander S. Eastern wall:
- total — 4030 m
Route Description: правой части В стены
Description of the first ascent of a combined 5B category route up the eastern wall of Iskander peak in Pamir-Alay.
Climbing Passport
- Category: Technical
- Region: Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Asu gorge.
- Summit: Iskander via the eastern wall
- Route: Combined, first ascent, approximately 5B category difficulty
- Elevation gain: 1049 m
- Average slope of the route: 66°
- Average slope of the wall section: 75°
- Route length: 1813 m
- Pitons used: rock — 66, chocks — 133, bolts — 1
Route Description: В ребру
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Petrogradets (5163 m) via the Eastern edge with a detailed analysis of sections and complexity categories.
Ascent Log
I. Technical category 2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Suu gorge 3. Peak Petrogradets (5163 m) via the eastern edge from the saddle between Peak Iskander (5120) 4. Proposed - 5B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1413 m, route length - 1850 m Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 820 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 70° (4190-5000), including 6 category of difficulty - 85° (4720-4760), 60° (4760-4763), 105° (4810-4815) 6. Pitons driven | Rock | Ice | Nuts | Bolts |
Route Description: ЮЗ гребню
Climbing report on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) by a team of alpinists via the Southwest Ridge, category 5B difficulty.
- Class of ascent — high-altitude;
- Region of ascent — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range;
- Peaks, their height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) with ascent from Moskvina Glacier along the southwest ridge (Markelov's route);
- Category of difficulty — 5B;
- Route characteristics: height difference — 3000 m; length of sections: 1st category of difficulty — 1000 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 800 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 300 m, 4th category of difficulty — 740 m, 5th category of difficulty — 160 m; average steepness: 30°;
- Pitons driven: for creating artificial holds — none, for belaying — 44, of which rock pitons — 4, ice screws — 40, bolt pitons — none;
- Number of climbing hours: 6+7+10+10+8=41 hours;
- Number and characteristics of bivouacs: 4 bivouacs, lying down;
- Surname, name, patronymic of the team leader, participants, and their qualification: Krasnoukhov Yuri Vasilyevich (MS) — team leader