2. Gidan via SE ridge, 2A

The ascent to the upper cirque of Gidan from the “Ukyu-kosh” hut is done according to the previous description. Move along the "pocket", then cross over to the right-bank moraine at the confluence with the slope, descend into the cirque, approach the slopes of the SE ridge along the left edge of the cirque and ascend to its saddle — 2.5–3 hours. From the KSP "Golubyatnya" shelter, it is advisable to head to the upper cirque by moving along the slopes of the left south counterfort of Mt. Ukyu M. From the saddle, proceed left, strictly along the line of the rocky ridge with protection on rock outcrops (caution! — do not deviate onto the ledges to the right of the ridge — the rocks are heavily deteriorated and outcrops are unreliable). A 6-meter rock wall in the middle section of the ridge is climbed directly via a crack with piton protection. The pre-summit "gendarme" is bypassed on the left via rocks (caution — heavily deteriorated), then 20 m up and right to the summit. From the saddle, 1–1.5 hours. Descent is done via the 3rd ridge as per the previous description. Hazardous areas: deteriorated rocks on the 3rd slope of the pre-summit "gendarme".

8. Two Boitsa Peaks via the 3rd Ridge

From the Djangi-kosh hut, across the "sickle-shaped" moraine, onto the Bezengi Glacier, along the left (as you move) side of the glacier (watch out for covered crevices and rockfall from the southern slopes of Pik Varsavia), bypassing the bases of the three southern spurs of the main Varsavia - Sella ridge, into the SW cirque of Bashkha-auza. Between the end of the southern ridge of Bashkha-auza and Pik Kamnepadnyi, the SW cirque glacier has a branch to the SE into the Dykh-su gorge. Here, exit onto the rocks at the end of the southern ridge, with a slight loss of height traverse the ridges going in the SE direction, and descend into the SE cirque of Bashkha-auza. Through the cirque, under the slopes of the eastern ridge of Bashkha-auza and further up to Spartiak Pass — the snowy saddle closest to the peak. From the hut, 4–5 hours. From the pass, east along the sharp snowy ridge (possible cornices on the north side) with two small "gendarme" peaks, ascent to the rocky summit of the 1st Boitsa. Descent to the SE along the rocky ridge, then left and down the destroyed and snow-covered rocks (watch out for rockfall) onto a wide snowy saddle of the ridge. In adverse weather conditions, it is possible to leave the route here, going left onto the Krumkol Glacier, and return to Spartiak Pass via the glacier. From the saddle, across two snowy "gendarme" peaks and along the sharp snowy ridge to the start of the rocky inner corner. With piton belay, 10–12 m up to the right, then left and up the steep snowy slope onto the ridge. Along the snowy ridge to the saddle and from it, up the steep snow-ice pitch with piton belay to the summit of the 2nd Boitsa. From Spartiak Pass, 4–5 hours. Descent and return via the ascent route. To Spartiak Pass, 2–3 hours and then 1.5–2 hours.

Djangi (N) 5A to N. col. 665 15. Solorosinov + U. 1500, 65°, 63 cm. from the plateau ker 2.5. East Djangi-TAU

"Main Dzhangitau via the North-East buttress — category 5A" (Schwarzgruber, A. Larin, Peringer, Taper — 23 July 1935; N. Chekmarev and G. Skornyakov — 23 August 1936; Fig. 39). From Bezengi alpine camp, follow the trail along the left-bank moraine of the Bezengi gorge up to the Missekosha hut. From the hut, on the south side of the meadow, follow the trail down, across the meadow with graves of climbers who perished in the Bezengi area, and descend to the Bezengi Glacier. Traverse the glacier, keeping to its left side, up and past minor icefalls and crevasses near the left bank, and then up the center-right of the glacier to its fork into left (East) and right (North-West) branches. Under the icefall of the East branch, turn left under the talus and grassy ascent of the left-bank moraine. Follow the trail right of the stream that flows from the trough between the moraine and the slopes of Pik Semenovsky down to the main Bezengi Glacier, and ascend to the moraine. Camp on the moraine. From Bezengi alpine camp — 3–4 hours. From the camp (with crampons!) traverse the glacier to the right side of the base of the North-East buttress of Main Dzhangitau. From the glacier, ascend the avalanche debris (avalanches!) between two rocky outcrops, through a bergschrund and along a gully, and then up a snowy slope to beneath the main rocky ascent of the North-East buttress. Bypass it via a snowy ascent on the right (avalanches! rockfall! icefall!) and exit onto an ice ledge (pitons!). From initial camp — 3–4 hours. From here:

• left and up rocky terrain of medium difficulty and an ice-snow slope (pitons!) — ascent onto the North-East buttress;
• from there, right and 80–100 m up simple and medium-difficulty rocks of the buttress (“live” rocks! pitons!), small slabs are bypassed via snow-ice slopes on the right;
• then, up a snowy slope — ascent onto a horizontal snowy ridge;

Description of the ascent route to Jorashy-Kurshagan (South) 4286 m — 3A category of difficulty.

From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the Bezengi glacier to a sharp drop in the high right-bank (along the route) moraine. Climb up (to its lowering) along the talus of the couloir, and then up to the right along the Grassy inclined ledge (1–1.5 hours) to the ridge, from which a stream flowing from the Jorashy cirque is visible. Along the ridge, then along the rocks and talus on the right (along the route) side of the stream — exit to the Jorashy cirque. The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp to the exit to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. In the central part of the cirque, a narrow winding couloir is clearly visible, which leads to the Jorashy pass. In the upper part of the couloir, on the right, there is a large plug-slab, overcoming which with insurance through the ledges — exit to the pass (2 hours from the cirque). Overnight stay at the pass. (The path from the pass goes straight along the ridge!) in the direction of the summit. The sequence of passing the sections of the route:

• The first gendarme is passed head-on.
• The second one with an overhanging cornice is bypassed on the right, with an exit to the ridge behind the top of the gendarme.
• The key section of the route is a 30-meter-high wall, which is passed on the right side of the ridge.
• Further along the rocks of medium difficulty to the third gendarme, which is overcome on the left along the route (2 ropes) with an exit to its top in the upper part.
• Another rope along the ridge leads to a site under the next gendarme.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team

To the peak Dragon (3570 m)

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°02′37.87″ N, 43°17′10.62″ E) via the western ridge. First ascent. Presumably 3B category of difficulty. Galimzyanov T.R. — Zaryaev V.V.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Galimzyanov Timur Ravilievich. 2nd sports category Coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Address: 115193, Moscow, Leninsky pr-t, 35, apt. 33.

Dumala. Via the SE buttress, category 4A

From the green campsites in the moraine pocket of the Ullu-Auz glacier, ascend along the moraine. Cross a stream and climb a steep talus (partially grassy) slope to a large snowfield (0) and traverse it until the narrow part of the large SE couloir of v. Dumala, known as the "gates," becomes visible (1). Up to this point, the route coincides with the path to the upper cirques of the Ullu-Auz glacier. From the green campsites, it takes 1 hour. It is recommended to spend the night here to pass through the "gates" by 4:00 AM. Rockfall begins at 5:00 AM. The ascent to the "gates" via snow takes about 1 hour. The "gates" are traversed on snow, hugging the right-hand rocks. After the "gates," the couloir widens and turns into a broad snow slope cut by avalanche gullies. Ascend on the right part of the slope under the cover of the rocks of the Eastern peak's ridge. The snow is firm. Protection is running belays.

Dumala-Tau (4680) via South Ridge — Cat. 4B

From the bivouac behind the moraine, the path goes up the grassy slopes and talus, bypassing the ridge descending from the Dumala-Tau massif, to the right of the icefall. The route along the South Ridge begins to the left of a slab with a crack and a small stream at its upper part, via an 80-meter snowy couloir upward to the right onto a destroyed saddle behind the slab, from where the stream flows. From the saddle, follow a ledge upward to the left. From the end of the ledge, ascend a rocky couloir to a balcony. Along the balcony to the left and through a 20-meter crack, make a ascent to the left edge of the South wall. Further:

• Exit onto the West wall
• Traverse it to the left to bypass the jagged part of the edge
• After 40–45 m, exit onto the edge above the large "perо" (fin-like rock formation)
• From the edge, make a 5–6 m traverse along a ledge to the left under a gully
• From the left side of the gully, ascend 5 m up the wall, then 40 m along easy rocks under a 25-meter wall, which is climbed in the center
• From the wall, make a 60–70 m traverse through a couloir to the left

Duma-Tau 4557

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.