
2. Gidan via SE ridge, 2A
The ascent to the upper cirque of Gidan from the “Ukyu-kosh” hut is done according to the previous description. Move along the "pocket", then cross over to the right-bank moraine at the confluence with the slope, descend into the cirque, approach the slopes of the SE ridge along the left edge of the cirque and ascend to its saddle — 2.5–3 hours. From the KSP "Golubyatnya" shelter, it is advisable to head to the upper cirque by moving along the slopes of the left south counterfort of Mt. Ukyu M.
From the saddle, proceed left, strictly along the line of the rocky ridge with protection on rock outcrops (caution! — do not deviate onto the ledges to the right of the ridge — the rocks are heavily deteriorated and outcrops are unreliable). A 6-meter rock wall in the middle section of the ridge is climbed directly via a crack with piton protection. The pre-summit "gendarme" is bypassed on the left via rocks (caution — heavily deteriorated), then 20 m up and right to the summit. From the saddle, 1–1.5 hours.
Descent is done via the 3rd ridge as per the previous description. Hazardous areas: deteriorated rocks on the 3rd slope of the pre-summit "gendarme".