Passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Central Caucasus. 2.4
3. Chatyn Glavny (4368 m), via the diamond-shaped section of the North Face.
4. Difficulty category: 6A.
5. Height difference of the wall section of the route — 770 m. Length — 1200 m. Average slope of the main part of the route — 80°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 580 m.
6. Pitons left on the route:

1. Climbing class — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Sakashilsky
3. Peak — Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM, height 3465 m, climbing route — South wall from the Sakashil glacier cirque.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference — 350 m. Average steepness — 60°.
6. Number of pitons — rock pitons 12 pcs. Number of travel hours — from Tyrnyauz town to the bivouac – 5 hours, from the bivouac to the summit and descent – 6 hours.
7. Number of nights — one night at a bivouac near the Sakashil glacier lake.
8. Leader — Nikolai Vasilyevich Zimin — 1st sports category Participants:

• I.I. Khachuev — 1st sports category

239

REPORT

On the ascent to Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern counterfort from August 2 to 4, 1972, approximately category 4B difficulty, by a group from the Krasnodar Regional Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports Society.

1. Approach to the Initial Bivouac

From the Dzhatugan alpine camp, follow the road along the Adylsu valley. After 300 m, turn right across the river via a temporary bridge onto the Koshey clearing. Then, follow the trail up to the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier and along its ridge to a large rock — 1 hour. From here, turn left and ascend via a steep trail to the Turii Lakes — 40 minutes — the location of the initial bivouac.

2. Geographical Information

Cheget-Kara-Bashi — 3667 m — is the outermost peak of the northern spur of Ullu-Kara. To the east of the peak lies the Bashkara glacier, and beneath the western slopes — a small Cheget-Kara glacier with Turii Lake beneath it — a bivouac site. Several routes to Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak have been established, ranging from category 2B to 4A difficulty. The area around the peak is considered well-explored by climbers; ascent routes are popular among alpine camps in the region. The northwestern counterfort of the peak was first ascended in July 1970 by a group of instructors from the "Elbrus" alpine camp led by N. Korzhov, who rated it category 4B difficulty. This route has become popular among sports groups due to its:

• logical progression,
• safety,

211. Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol via the North-Eastern Ridge (M. Pavlenko's route, category III difficulty) The path from the town of Tyrnyauz (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, follow the left bank of the Sakashil River into the upper floodplain, where the river branches into several streams. Cross the river and ascend via large scree to an old terminal moraine of the Sakashil Glacier. Follow the moraine to reach the upper terrace. Then, either follow the stream or ascend slightly higher via grassy slopes on the right bank, and then via scree, approach the base of the Southeast Wall of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. Turn right here and ascend up-right via a broad grassy couloir to a distinct notch on the North-Eastern ridge of the peak. 1.5–2 hours from the initial bivouac. From the notch, turn left and ascend 80 m straight up via moderately difficult steep slabs with small ledges and holds (piton belay, "live" rocks!). In the upper part, bypass steep smooth slabs on the left via a steep but straightforward couloir ("live" rocks!). From the couloir, bypass a нависающий угол on the left via ledges and ascend via a moderately difficult, indistinct internal corner to a ledge above an overhanging rock. Then, ascend via ledges on the left side of the wall to reach the ridge. Follow a straightforward, gently sloping ridge to R1, which is bypassed on the right via ledges (piton belay!). Then, ascend via moderately difficult rock to a point below R2, which is also bypassed on the left. Beyond the gendarme, ascend right onto the summit ridge. Follow a steep, sharp, but straightforward rocky ridge to ascend Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. 5–6 hours from the notch.

1. Summit, its height — peak XIV съезда ВЛКСМ, 3465 m
2. Ascent route — south-eastern edge from the cirque of Sakashil glacier.
3. Proposed complexity category — 3B
4. Route characteristic: rocky, height difference — 350 m, average steepness 55°.
5. Pitons driven: rock — II pcs.
6. Number of travel hours: a) Tyrnyauz — bivouac — 6 h; b) bivouac — summit — 6 h
7. Number of overnight stays — one overnight stay at a bivouac at the Small Lake on the terminal moraine of Sakashil glacier.
8. Leader: EFREMOV Vladimir Vasilievich, 1st sports category Participants:

• Galyamov Shagimul Magadovich — 1st sports category

SPARTAK KABARDINO-BALKAR COUNCIL DOSAAF

Report on the First Ascent via the Western Counterfort of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol

(approximately 4A category of difficulty)

Central Caucasus

Team coach — Candidate Master of Sports of the USSR Yu.A. Ivanov Team captain — 1st sports category V.N. Li

Nalchik

September 2–4, 1978

Description of the First Ascent via the Western Counterfort of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol (Route 4A category of difficulty, September 3–4, 1978)

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Baksan Valley, Main Caucasian Range, Donguzorun valley cirque. 2 Peak 3650 m (Stalingrad Battle), via the North Ridge.
2. Proposed — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
3. The route is ice-snow.
4. Height difference of the route:
   • from the Bezymyanny pass — 400 m;
   • from the bottom of the valley — 900 m; Route length — 900 m; Average steepness of the route — 30°;

98. Shkhelda East with ascent to the "saw" of the East ridge via Central North couloir (B. Garf route, 5A cat.). The path from the "Shkhelda" alplager (4-5 people) through the Shkhelda gorge to the "Shkhelda overnight stays" is described in route 111. From the "Shkhelda overnight stays" (departure not later than 1:00 am) cross the glacier and reach the wide snow-ice Central North couloir descending from the East ridge - "saw" of Shkhelda East summit. Ascend the couloir via avalanche debris, then, sticking to the left side, 400-500 m up (avalanches, rocks!) until crevasses and ice seracs. Further, between crevasses and seracs 200 m

90. Peak Aristova via North-West Ridge (V. Abalakov's Route, Cat. 5A) From Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people), ascend via the trail on the right slope of Shkhelda gorge. Beyond the forest, move along the trail on grassy slopes, then on large talus to the moraine of Shkhelda glacier. Follow the right moraine of the glacier to the confluence with Aksu glacier. From here, turn left and follow the median moraine towards the North Walls of Peak Aristova. From the moraine, move across the glacier towards the rightmost rocky ridge branching off from the North-West Ridge of Peak Aristova - the first rocky belt of the peak - and ascend via the avalanche debris, then along the snowy slope-couloir to the right ridge of the belt. Ascend simple rocks of the ridge to the platforms above overhanging rocks. Camp on the

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF PIK SHCHUROVSKOGO Central Council of the Sports Society "Avangard" Kiev — 1962 Profile of the lower part of the large rock island. Sections of the wall R7–R10. Photograph taken by V. Bocharov during the ascent of the northeast wall of Pik Shchurovskogo on July 14, 1962.

Introduction

Pik Shchurovskogo (4259) is located in the Central Caucasus and is situated in the ridge that borders the Shkheldy glacier from the northeast.