- Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol via the North-Eastern Ridge (M. Pavlenko's route, category III difficulty) The path from the town of Tyrnyauz (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, follow the left bank of the
Sakashil River into the upper floodplain, where the river branches into several streams. Cross the river and ascend via large scree to an old terminal moraine of the Sakashil Glacier. Follow the moraine to reach the upper terrace. Then, either follow the stream or ascend slightly higher via grassy slopes on the right bank, and then via scree, approach the base of the Southeast Wall of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. Turn right here and ascend up-right via a broad grassy couloir to a distinct notch on the North-Eastern ridge of the peak. 1.5–2 hours from the initial bivouac.
From the notch, turn left and ascend 80 m straight up via moderately difficult steep slabs with small ledges and holds (piton belay, "live" rocks!). In the upper part, bypass steep smooth slabs on the left via a steep but straightforward couloir ("live" rocks!). From the couloir, bypass a нависающий угол on the left via ledges and ascend via a moderately difficult, indistinct internal corner to a ledge above an overhanging rock. Then, ascend via ledges on the left side of the wall to reach the ridge. Follow a straightforward, gently sloping ridge to R1, which is bypassed on the right via ledges (piton belay!). Then, ascend via moderately difficult rock to a point below R2, which is also bypassed on the left. Beyond the gendarme, ascend right onto the summit ridge. Follow a steep, sharp, but straightforward rocky ridge to ascend Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. 5–6 hours from the notch.
Descend via the Southwest Ridge (see route 210).
Route duration: 3 days.
Special equipment for 4 people:
- main rope — 2 × 30 m
- auxiliary cord — 1.5 m
- rock pitons — 6–8
- carabiners — 8
- rock hammers — 2
- tent — 1
A possible bivouac site is on the peak ("Baksan Valley", A.F. Naumova).