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• 1B cat. difficulty route
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Report

on ascents to peak 3930 (Paton's peak) in the Caucasus, made by participants of the Ukrainian scientific and sports expedition

1. Organization Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation of Ukraine

Peak Profsoyuzov!

PRK Profsoyuzov.

Cat. diff. 2B.

Summit elevation 2050 m.

The summit is located in the Main Caucasian Range, on the same ridge as the peaks Pkhola-Tau. Near the peak Profsoyuzov are located the following peaks:

• to the southeast — Pkhola-Tau
• to the northwest — Psentiba-shi
• a nameless peak above the Akh-Tsu pass

81. Peak Profsoyuzov via Southwest Ridge (L. Yurasov's route, category 3A) The path from the Shkhielda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the snowy plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Akhsu glacier with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's Overnight Stay" is described in routes 72 and 80. Up the plateau to the left is the exit to the ice-snow saddle of the ridge between the peaks Bivuchny and Fizkulturnik — Bivuchny Pass. From the plateau:

• Overcoming the bergschrund,
• Up the steep ice-snow slope (avalanches!) — ascent to Bivuchny Pass. From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" — 6–7 hours. From the pass:
• Turn left,
• Exit under the rock wall of Bivuchny Peak,
• Along the edge of ice and rocks — 40–50-meter traverse under the wall to the left to the rocky-snowy Western Buttress of the peak.

2.4.147 Ascent Report

I. Description of the Traverse of Sakashil-Bashi Massif West — East

The first ascent of the route was made on February 22, 1969, by a group consisting of:

• Skobenko S.A. (leader)
• Vasyukovich L.A.
• Karlov A.I. With the presence of an auxiliary group (observers) of 3 people. Day 1. On February 21, the 2/1 group approached through the Khunaly-Chat gorge (the left, uppermost tributary of Sakashil-Su). The approach path to the old terminal moraine of the Khunaly glacier (Western Sakashil) is the same as for the peaks "Pik XXV-letiya kombinata", A. Baysultanov, and B. Orlov. After reaching the old terminal moraine, one must ascend left-upwards and, having reached the 1st moraine terrace, traverse left into the "pocket" between the right-bank moraine and the rocky slope of the spur separating the Khunaly-Chat and Sakashil gorges. Ascending up the "pocket", we reach the moraine ridge approximately 50 m above the glacier tongue. Two options are then possible:
• Reach the glacier and continue moving along it.

2. Description

Ascending the north-west slope Traversing the Sakashil-Bashi massif from East to West Leave the bivouac as early as possible (at 3–4 am). From the "3430" bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier, ascend the glacier, avoiding crevasses on the right, to a steep snow-ice slope leading to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Continue ascending the snowy slope towards a rocky outcrop under the saddle. Reach the rocky island and traverse left for 10–15 m along a 45–50° ice slope, cutting steps and using ice axe insurance via an ice screw, and reach inclined slabs. Ascend the inclined slabs first left-upwards (using piton insurance, beware of loose rocks!) — 15–20 m, and then right-upwards to the saddle between the "Shirma" ridge and the Sakashil-Bashi massif. Elevation — 3700 m, 1.5–2 hours from the bivouac. From the saddle, ascend a 6–7 m wall, and then right along a ledge to a rocky ridge leading to the start of the ice-snow ridge of the Sakashil-Bashi massif summit. 1 hour from the saddle. At the boundary of rocks, there's a control cairn. Ascend the ice-snow slope leading to the "Glavnaya" (Main) summit via areas of firn and snow using crampons, with insurance via an ice axe; the slope steepness is 50–60°. Ascend initially towards a snowy depression, and then traverse the edge of the depression from right to left, directly to the summit ridge. The length of the ice-snow slope is 10–12 rope lengths; the steepest section of the slope, 25–30 m long (1 rope length), is overcome using front-point cramponing with careful insurance. Continue along the snowy ridge to the "Glavnaya" summit.

4. ROUTE DESCRIPTION Ascent to the Main peak of Sakashil-Bashi (4100 m) via the northern edge Day 1 - approach through the Sakashil-do gorge to the bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Central Glacier (at an elevation of 3430 m) - see the general description of ascents to the Sakashil-Bashi massif. From Tyrnyauz - 9:00-10:00. Day 2 - departure should be early - at 3-4 am; from the bivouac, follow the glacier to the foot of the rock buttress, approach the bergschrund (at the beginning of summer, the glacier is snow-covered, by the end of summer - open, crevices are easily bypassed). The elevation of the bergschrund edge under the buttress is 3530 m. Cramp-ons are put on here. Crossing the bergschrund is not complicated - at the beginning of summer it is closed, at the end (September 1969) it is possible to cross on snow bridges. One rope is passed directly up the ice couloir (at the beginning of summer - firn) between the two rock ridges of the buttress. Steepness is about 45°. Then, crossing the couloir to the right and upwards, we approach the rocks of the right (along the route) ridge and move along the edge of the ice and rocks; at the end of the second rope, a rock piton is hammered in for belay. After crossing a small ice tongue, we emerge onto the rocks. Cramp-ons are removed and we ascend the rocks upwards along the couloir for one rope. Rocks are of medium difficulty, heavily destroyed (unstable rocks). Further:

• to the right - along a vaguely expressed internal corner, one rope, one intermediate piton is hammered in;
• then slightly to the right and up along a steep internal corner with a small number of holds, exit to the ridge of the buttress.

25. Syltran via the East Ridge (Route 1B cat.). The path from the settlement of Verkhny Baksan to the initial bivouac by Syltrangel Lake is described in Route 22. From the bivouac by the lake, ascend along the right bank of the stream to the exit onto a small unnamed glacier flowing down the northern slopes of the East Ridge of Syltran peak to Syltrangel Lake. Walk up the glacier towards a solitary rock among the scree slopes descending from the East Ridge of Syltran. To the right of the rock, via a scree-filled couloir (rockfall hazard!), ascend to the East Ridge of Syltran. From the lake, 3–4 hours. Here, turn right and ascend over snowfields, then over scree and heavily broken simple rocks of the East Ridge. Traverse large rock towers - gendarmes on the left (with protection!). Further, over scree and simple rocks of the ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Syltran. From the col, 2–2.5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 3 days. “Baksan Valley”, A. F. Naumov

Ascent Passport Terskolak (NW) 2B, via S slope and W ridge

Table of Contents

• APPROACH
• ASCENT — start
• ASCENT — glacier
• ASCENT — gendarme
• ASCENT — wall
• DESCENT
• ROUTE SECTIONS TABLE
• APPENDIX 1

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.