Sokol peak, "Zvezda" route, 4A (S. Nadtochiy, A. Shelkhakov; January 2008), lower ropes (S. Nadtochiy, E. Burkulai; 2010). General impression of the route:

• Beautiful and challenging 4A, doesn't quite reach 4B due to its relatively short length (only 5 pitches).
• Varied and technically demanding climbing. The route starts 4 meters to the left of the "Ne khochu" route. Approach to the route: see "Zhazhda" route. The "Zvezda" route begins with a crack, to the left of which the route's name is carved. In the upper part of the route, a rock tower (bastion) serves as a landmark, with a star drawn on its right side.

Sokol — 10

Two Cornices 5A cat. dif. (A. Shelkhakov — D. Popov, autumn 2000)

R0–R1: 25 m, 5a. Careful climbing on a ruined crack, insurance is not easy to organize. Station on a bolt and own gear (going further is difficult due to friction). R1–R2: 15–20 m, 5a. Slab climbing, insurance on bolts + own. Station on a bush. R2–R3: 25 m, 5b. Slab climbing, own insurance on an overgrown crack (pitons, nuts). Station on a small tree. R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5a. In the direction of a large tree. Insurance is easy to organize. Station on a tree. R4–R5: 15 m, 5B. Traverse on a slab to the left upwards. Station on two bolts. R5–R6: 35–40 m, 5C+. From the station, a couple of meters to the left and then up after a bolt, into a crack. Along it to the end, then up the slab, own insurance, at the end of the slab a bolt leading to the right. Station in a niche on a shelf, to the right of a chimney, on bolts. R6–R7: 20–25 m, 6B+. Return to the base of the chimney (there is a bolt) and then 15 m up. Then to the left wall of the chimney (there is a bolt during the transition), then 7–8 m to the station under an overhang. Station on bolts. R7–R8: 15–20 m, 6B+, A1. Up the crack through an overhang, after exiting to a vertical — move to the right by climbing. Station on a tree.

Sokol (Crimea) — "Amazonka" 5A

Sokol mountain. Crimea A new route has been passed on Sokol mountain in Crimea. Participants of the ascent:

• Maxim Kuralesov, Nikopol city
• Mikhail Poddubnov, Dnipropetrovsk city The length of the route is 300 m. The proposed category of complexity is 5A. This ascent is not a first ascent in the pure form. According to information from Sergey Nadtochy, the lower four sections were once climbed by Vladimir Kudrigsky, but he was not the first ascender either. There were indeed pitons there. Above, there were no traces. Although the inner corner leading to the yayla could have been used as a finish for the routes:

Author: Yu. Vasilenko

Description of the "Brov'" route, 5A, Sokol mountain

The route is very beautiful and diverse in climbing. Stations on bolts. Nowadays, the route has been re-drilled by Misha Voloshinovskiy for climbing and is done mostly with free climbing, except for the "brov'" section. To start, one needs to approach the wall from the road. The climbing is similar to 3rd category routes, and belaying needs to be organized. The start of the route is on a ledge under the "Brov'" cornice, to the right of a slab leaning against the wall. At this spot, two gaps lead under the cornice. One can move either through the right or the left gap. Sokol, Brov' route, 5A R0–R1: 45–50 m, 6b, belaying on bolts + own protection, station on a bolt and two pitons (the left variant of reaching the station requires a pendulum). The start of the first rope is through a slab, which is the crux of the rope. The climbing is mixed, with free climbing interspersed with aid climbing, and constant "under-climbing". 1st variant.

• Climb 10 m up the slabs, then traverse right to the "right" gap, and up through it to the station. 2nd variant.

Crimea, So­kol mountain. "Dzhaksy" Route

So­kol. "Dzhaksy" Route (Nadt­ochiy S., Lav­ri­nen­ko A., February 5, 2008), 6A

The route turned out to be interesting, challenging, and ambiguous in terms of orientation on the terrain. Places for pitons, anchors, and skyhooks need to be found among the resonant slabs and scaly exfoliations. The overall complexity is 5b+ (in other words, it's 6A, but not long enough to be real). Many parts of the route can be climbed, but most likely, they will be aided, as it's very difficult to organize protection while climbing. A team with experience in climbing routes of this type (e.g., "Machembo") can complete this route in:

• 7–9 hours. So­kol. "Dzhaksy" Route 6A The route is called "Dzhaksy," which translates from Kazakh to Russian as "Хорошо" (Good). The total length of the route is 225 meters, with a complexity of 5B+ (i.e., practical 6A, but not quite). The approaches to the route are simple, and everything can be walked without being tied up, which cannot be said about the route itself.

Technical Description of the Route:

• R0–R1: 40 m, key climbing spot 5C, overall 5B+, protection is simple on pitons and cams. Station on 2 bolts hammered by A. Sergeev (Communist).

Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" (Red Cornice) route, 5B. (author: Lishaev Yu. "Fantik"), cat. difficulty 5B The route has a variation — the first one and a half ropes follow the "Vos'merka" (Eight) route, and then a transition via bolts to the third rope of the "Bol'shoĭ kar­niz" (Big Cornice). Approaching the route "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route R0–R1: 50–55 m 6B, first 12 m up a diagonal crack to the right with self-belay, then a delicate traverse to the right onto a resonant "nashlyopka" (overhanging rock formation), then via bolts, belay station on a ledge on one bolt and one piton. R1–R2: 45 m 5c+, move up and left towards a crack, protection mostly pitons (watch out for moss!), belay station on two bolts in a corner. R2–R3: 40 m 6a+ (sometimes A1), protection on pitons and bolts, belay station under a large cornice on a bolt? (either one or two). "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4) "Ryžiĭ kar­niz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4) R3–R4: 25–30 m 6b+ (or A2–), protection on large nuts and bolts, belay station on a plateau on a small tree. Recommended equipment:

• 50 m rope

Sokol Peak — «Time Machine» 6A

A new route «Time Machine» 6A has been completed on Sokol Peak (Crimea, Sudak). The route length is 390 m. It took more than a week to complete the first ascent with breaks for New Year holidays and rest days. The climb started on December 29, 2011, and finished on January 11, 2012. Route authors:

• Sergey Pugachev
• Sergey Nadtochiy

Technical description of the route

R0–R1: II, 20 m, 55°, F5a; The start of the route is at the base of an inclined slab, moving towards a large juniper tree. Station on a tree. R1–R2: VI, 50 m, 80°, A2, e4, (four bolts). From the station after the tree, move left to an overhanging crack, then up through it. After the second bolt, climb left onto a destroyed slab (ignore the separate lying boulder) — climb to the right. After the bolt, move left to a vertical crack and continue up it to the station.

New route in Crimea on g. Tre­уголь­ник — «So­ko­li­naya okhota» 4А

First ascent 2013: Dmitriy Lesnoy, Viktor Reyzner (Kherson)

About the route «So­ko­li­naya okhota» 4А (preliminary).

The route is located to the right of the bastion, where the route "Gendalf Seryy" 4А is laid. The upper large part of the route passes along a not ярко expressed ridge. It was expected to be 2А–3А, but it turned out to be more difficult due to several sections of 6а–6а+ at the beginning. The entire route was climbed freely, with free climbing. The relief is generally monolithic, there were not many loose rocks, and those we removed from the wall, so it is now not prone to rockfall. In two places, we had to approach trees through a couple of meters of lush vegetation (R1 and R6), a first ascent, after all. The line of the route is logical, it goes exactly where you want to go. The main difficulties are at the beginning, on the 1st and 2nd ropes. All stations are on trees; we didn't drill bolt holes, only hammered in 1 piton when transitioning to the right after R1, because there was nothing to place there.

About the name

On the 6th rope, while leading, I heard desperate cries of birds above. Deciding that the falcons were возмущались at our approach, I began to calm them down aloud and promised that we wouldn't touch anything. After a few seconds, they approached, and I realized that two falcons were hunting a smaller bird, which was crying. And right in front of me, at a distance of about eight meters in the air, a scene unfolded that I had only seen in documentaries:

Sha­an-Ka­ya — 3

Author: Alex­ander Za­ko­lod­ny, Khark­ov.

2012 © — new route on Sha­an-Ka­ya, 6A

Sha­an-Ka­ya is that, lately: base jumpers, rope access... attracts unusual mountains. Long winter, r line on the summit, after which... goal of Grishchenko to me with visiting the museum since the times of Zenit. As a partner I g, helped me to dry. The route passes left. On the march pulls! In these rock climbers, these people... grief and around looked straight crack left, gi m-t. or, as later i shlyambura). l initiative and

1012

ASCENT REPORT

1. Climbing type: rock climbing.
2. Climbing area: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, from Kardyvai mountain area to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: VELINGRAD peak, 3110 m, via the central northwest spur.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3B category.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 310 m, average steepness — 70°,