Crimea, Sokol mountain. "Ryžiĭ karniz" (Red Cornice) route, 5B. (author: Lishaev Yu. "Fantik"), cat. difficulty 5B
The route has a variation — the first one and a half ropes follow the "Vos'merka" (Eight) route, and then a transition via bolts to the third rope of the "Bol'shoĭ karniz" (Big Cornice).
Approaching the route "Ryžiĭ karniz" route R0–R1: 50–55 m 6B, first 12 m up a diagonal crack to the right with self-belay, then a delicate traverse to the right onto a resonant "nashlyopka" (overhanging rock formation), then via bolts, belay station on a ledge on one bolt and one piton.
R1–R2: 45 m 5c+, move up and left towards a crack, protection mostly pitons (watch out for moss!), belay station on two bolts in a corner.
R2–R3: 40 m 6a+ (sometimes A1), protection on pitons and bolts, belay station under a large cornice on a bolt? (either one or two).
"Ryžiĭ karniz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4)
"Ryžiĭ karniz" route (sections R2–R3 and R3–R4) R3–R4: 25–30 m 6b+ (or A2–), protection on large nuts and bolts, belay station on a plateau on a small tree.
Recommended equipment:
- 50 m rope
- set of nuts and cams
- 18–20 quickdraws
- 3 large and 2–4 small slings
- pitons mandatory
- hammers
- 4 étriers.
Time to complete for an average team: 4–6 hours. Description and photos by: Sergei Nadtochii (Sudak)