Sha­an-Ka­ya — 3

Author: Alex­ander Za­ko­lod­ny, Khark­ov.

2012 © — new route on Sha­an-Ka­ya, 6A

Sha­an-Ka­ya is that, lately: base jumpers, rope access... attracts unusual mountains.

Long winter, r line on the summit, after which... goal of Grishchenko to me with visiting the museum since the times of Zenit. As a partner I g, helped me to dry. The route passes left.

On the march

pulls! In these rock climbers, these people... grief and around looked straight crack left, gi m-t. or, as later i shlyambura). l initiative and

m-t. Grishchenko — complex climbing, also there are sections, lively and strong overhanging. Working time of the first ascent 16 hours. When passing, I couldn't resist the fashionable trend to minimize shlyamburs and holes for skyhooks, nevertheless, had to score two shlyamburs, and that on the station.

Shaan-Kaya. «2012 EURO» 6A. Route description

R0–R1, 30 m., IV. On the big from not going shlyamb:

Station: anchors

R1–R2, 42 m., A3, VI gap. On the gap in the branching of w: Then climbing: □

Station: anchors

R2–R3, 45 m., A2, VI. From the station up the big gap (

ia in 3 meters nka (mul'de) to ykhuki). Further on nia 20 m, A2, IV. Further on passing into an oblique shelf with feathers to the finger 5 m, VI+. Station on the finger: loop, hook.

R3–R4 47 m, A2, VI. From the station to the right 2 m, then up the gap 15 m, A2. At the end of the gap with complex climbing on the shelf 7 m, VI. (Oblique big shelf m-t. Gri­shchenko left). Through the shelf to the right-up the gap, then left-up 25 m, V. (many lively).

Station on the oblique shelf at the base of the big red chimney. Station: закладки, anchor.

R4­–­R5 40 ­m, A3, VI. To the right on the shelf into the chimney. On the chimney from the right side (many lively, overhangs). At the exit from the chimney, traverse left onto the shelf 15 ­m, A3. From the shelf up complex climbing — ИТО to the fir 15 ­m, A2+, VI. Station above the fir. Station: 2 shlyamburs.

R5­–­R6 25 ­m, A3, IV. From the station left­–­up on (vertical loose rock) 10 ­m, A3. Then on the shelves climbing under overhangs 15 ­m, IV. Station lefter than the vertical gap. (Oblique big shelf m­–­t. Gri­shchenko left). Station: hook, anchors.

R6–R7 40 ­­m, A2+, IV. To the right 2 ­m (mor­kov­ka). Then up the gap (strongly overhangs), (on the flattening two holes) 20 ­m, A2. Further up-right on the shelves, on the big shelf. Sta­tsiya: закладки, anchors.

R7–R8 30 ­m, I. On the shelf left. Sta­tsiya: de­re­vo.

For suc­cess­ful com­ple­tion, the fol­low­ing is nec­es­sary:

Ropes 2 pcs.

Loops 3 pcs.

Runners 22 pcs. (can be more, half long)

Закладки one and a half sets

Cams (more than 3 not needed)

Anchors 14 pcs.

Fifas (will help)

Hooks different

Sky­hooks relief (small, medium — type Cassin)

Hole-type 2 pcs.