Sokol Peak — «Time Machine» 6A
A new route «Time Machine» 6A has been completed on Sokol Peak (Crimea, Sudak). The route length is 390 m. It took more than a week to complete the first ascent with breaks for New Year holidays and rest days. The climb started on December 29, 2011, and finished on January 11, 2012.
Route authors:
- Sergey Pugachev
- Sergey Nadtochiy
Technical description of the route
R0–R1: II, 20 m, 55°, F5a; The start of the route is at the base of an inclined slab, moving towards a large juniper tree. Station on a tree.
R1–R2: VI, 50 m, 80°, A2, e4, (four bolts).
From the station after the tree, move left to an overhanging crack, then up through it. After the second bolt, climb left onto a destroyed slab (ignore the separate lying boulder) — climb to the right. After the bolt, move left to a vertical crack and continue up it to the station.
The station is made on:
- a bolt
- plus personal gear
R2–R3: III, 25 m, 50°. From the station, simple climbing with easy belay organization under a juniper tree. The juniper serves as station R3.
R3–R4: VI+, 55 m, 100°, AII, e4 (4 bolts)
From the station, move right and up to an overhanging slab (bolt). After the bolt, use AII to climb a vertical monolithic slab (pitons, skyhooks).
After the bolt, shift left into a subtle corner. After the slope eases, move towards a large juniper tree.
Station on the juniper tree.
R4–R5: no category, 20 m, 40°.
Station on a large juniper tree under the base of the upper bastion.
R5–R6: VI, 40 m, 85°, AII, e1, (1 bolt). From the station, climb up a destroyed vertical crack for six meters, then right and up the wall towards the bolt (25 m). For the first 12 m, there are signs of previous ascents (an old rappel station on two pitons). After the bolt, on the vertical wall, shift left and up towards a pine tree. Use pitons, skyhooks for protection. Station on a bolt plus personal gear.
R6–R7: VI, 27 m, 80°, AI. From R6, move around the pine tree on the right. After the tree, move right towards a destroyed, subtle inner corner. Station on a bolt plus personal gear.
R7–R8: VI, 25 m, 75°, AI: After the station, climb the destroyed corner for about eight meters, then simple aid climbing towards a bolt. Station on two bolts.
R8–R9: VI+, 32 m, 85°, AII, e1, (1 bolt), F6a.
After the station:
- climb right and up towards a diagonal ledge,
- then along it,
- a tricky passage in the upper part,
- after the bolt, climb (or aid climb plus free climb) first up and left,
- then towards a small pine tree.
Station on a curved pine tree.
R9–R10: V, 40 m, 70°, F = 6a, e1, (1 bolt). From the station, climb directly to the bolt, then along a diagonal shelf to the right to a subtle inner corner. Then follow a system of cracks to a large tree. The base is slightly destroyed. Station on the large tree.
R10–R11: II, 55 m, 60°, F5a. From the station, follow a gully to a tree, then right to the standard finish of «Galochka». A bolt is placed at the top. Please do not try to twist it out, as rescue operations are common here.
New route on Sokol Peak — «Time Machine» 6A
On the route, it is recommended to use:
- double rope
- hammers for both participants
- hole skyhooks with a diameter of 8.0 mm
- relief skyhooks
- vertical, horizontal, anchor, U-shaped pitons
- cable stoppers of various sizes.
Stations are either on trees or on 60–70 mm long bolts with a diameter of 10 mm. It is more convenient to supplement with anchors or pitons.
The R7–R9 section provokes single-rope climbing but requires a large amount of gear.
Impression of the route. A good, long sixth-grade route that requires participants to perform a large volume of mountaineering work. Recommended for well-prepared teams that can use the entire arsenal of mountaineering gear. Recommended for passage during a long daylight period. It is possible to «exit» the route to the right through «Galochka» from:
- R3
- R4
- R5
- R8
Special thanks to Alexander Kayahev for providing the bolts.
Route authors: Sergey Pugachev, Sergey Nadtochiy
Text author: Sergey Nadtochiy (Sudak)
Source: Project ALP (12.01.2012)
