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Route Description: З кф. Ю гребня
Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit of Bolshoy Zub in Kuznetsk Alatau via the northern edge of the eastern ridge.
ASCENT PASS
- Ascent class: rock.
- Ascent area: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger-Tysh ridge.
- Bolshoy Zub peak, 2048 m above sea level, combined route on the Western counterfort of the southern ridge.
- Estimated difficulty category: 2A.
- Route characteristics: height difference about 600 m, average slope of ascent — 45 degrees.
- Pitons hammered: rock — 5 pcs.
- Number of travel hours — 8 hours.
- Overnight stays are not provided — the route is completed in one day.
- Chan-Syan Anatoly Vladimirovich — instructor, CMS.
Route Description: З кф.
Description of the ascent route to the summit "Bolshoy Zub" (2048 m) via the western counterfort of 2B difficulty category in Kuznetsk Alatau.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent class: rock.
- Ascent area: Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger-Tysh ridge.
- Peak "Bolshoy Zub" (Big Tooth) 2048 m above sea level.
- Route is combined, via the western counterfort.
- Estimated difficulty category: 2B.
- Height difference is about 600 m.
- Pitons hammered: rock 4 pcs., chock stones 6 pcs.
- Number of travel hours: ascent 4 hours, descent 3 hours.
- No overnight stay is planned; the route is completed in 1 day.
Route Description: левой части В стены
Description of a category 3B route via the North Face of Bolshoy Zub peak (2045) in Kuznetskiy Alatau.
Passport
- Climbing category — rock.
- Climbing area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tegirtysh ridge.
- Peak — Bolshoy Zub (2045) via the North face.
- Anticipated category complexity — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined.
- Route length — 440 m Length of sections with 5th category complexity — 60 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 59°. Average steepness of the entire route — 53°.
- Pitons hammered:
- rock — 23
- chocks — 2
Route Description: С стене
Description of a 3B category complexity route to the summit of Bolshoy Zub via the center of the North face in **Kungoy Alatau**.
Ascent Record
- Ascent category — rock climbing.
- Ascent area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger Tysh ridge.
- Summit — Bolshoy Zub (2045 m) via the center of the North face.
- Estimated category of difficulty — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined.
- Length — 540 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 63°. Average steepness of the entire route — 51°.
- Number of pitons driven: | rock | wired | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :-: |
Route Description: Ю гребню, траверс
Traverse of peaks XVII - East Zub from "Bypesnikov" lake via 3rd category route: detailed description of the approach, ascent and descent.
Traverse of KVI—B. Zub
from the "Graduates" lake via a 3B category route
From the "Graduates" lake, ski to the cirque between KVI and Sredny Zub along the southern slope of Sredny Zub. The approach takes 1.5 hours. Leave the skis in the cirque and, in a team, ascend the snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45° to the eastern ridge of KVI, with alternate belay. Before reaching the ridge, there are two gendarmes: the first one is ascended "head-on," and the second is bypassed on the right. Movement along the ridge is simultaneous, with belay via outcrops.
Along the ridge, approach the snowy slope with a steepness of 40–45°. Move on the left side, with alternate belay, and after 50 m, exit under the ridge rocks. From under the rocks, traverse to the right to reach a saddle. Midway up, there is a stone outcrop convenient for belay.
The approach to the summit of KVI is via easy rocks with some ice. The ascent to KVI takes about 7 hours.
From the summit, traverse 15 m along the ridge towards B. Zub and organize a 40 m rappel to a saddle. From the saddle, move up via moderately difficult rocks.
The route continues along the ridge. The first three gendarmes are passed "head-on," and the rest are bypassed on the right; the exit to the summit is via easy, snow-covered rocks.
The KVI—B. Zub route takes 3 hours. The descent via a category 1B route takes 3 hours.
Route Description: СВ кф
Report on the first ascent of the route category 1B to the Bolshaya Bariernaya peak in the Putorana Plateau by a team led by Dmitry Orlov on April 2, 2021.
Report on the First Ascent to the summit of Bolshaya Barrierная via Orlov's Route, Category 1B, on April 2, 2021
1. Object Description
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the team leader | Orlov Dmitry Sergeevich, 2nd sports rank in alpinism |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Ryabinin Vasily Viktorovich, 3rd sports rank in alpinism |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | |
| 1.4 | Organization | |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Putorana Plateau |
Route Description: 4-му СВ кф
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Bolshaya Bariernaya via Orlov's route, category 2B, by Orlov's team on August 8, 2022.
Report on the First Ascent to Bolshaya Bariernaya Peak via Orlov's Route, Category 2B, by Orlov's Team on April 8, 2022
1. Object Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Team Leader | Orlov Dmitry Sergeevich, 2nd sports rank in alpinism |
| 1.2 | Full Names, Sports Ranks of the Team Members | Chindashev Alexey Leonidovich, 2nd sports rank in alpinism, Sedov Denis Valerievich, 3rd sports rank in alpinism |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Stukalov Mikhail Mikhailovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | |
| 2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object | ||
| 2.1 | Region | Putorana Plateau |
Route Description: центру С стены
Report on the passage of a category 6A route through the center of the northern wall of the Pik Vostochny (3361 m) in the Tsagan-Shibetu ridge in Tuva by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai.
Report
on the ascent of the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to p. Vostochny 3361 m via the Balazin V.V. route, 6A category of difficulty.
Ascent Passport
- Region — Tsagan-Shibetu ridge (Tuva Republic), 9.8
- Peak — Vostochny, 3361 m, center of the N wall.
- Category of difficulty — 6A.
- Route type — combined.
- Route characteristics:
elevation gain — 570 m, total length — 700 m; length of sections:
- 6th category of difficulty — 310 m
Route Description: с пер. Горнолыжников
Description of the route to Peak Komsomola via Thorns' Pass, category of difficulty 3-4 with a detailed analysis of technical sections and belay.
П. KOMSOMOLA — 25 via Tornolzhnikov Pass. The ridge is reached from the pass, the rocks are snowy in places, ridge of the 3rd cat. dif. Several small monolithic "gendarms" are overcome head-on. The length is 300 m, the average steepness is 45–50°. Overcoming with variable belay. Further, the ridge is heavily destroyed, there are many live stones - both small and large. Descent along the ledges. The length of the section is 200 m, 2 cat. dif. It is traversed simultaneously on a shortened rope. Bypassing the "lopata" gendarme on the right along the ledge, 100 m, 2 cat. dif. Between the ridge and the gendarme - a cornice on both sides. Ascent to the ridge along a steep talus. Then:
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the passage of a Category III route to the summit of Bodhona (5138 m) via the North-West Counterfort, Fan Mountains.
Ascent Logbook
- Technical category.
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains, northern part.
- Peak "Bodkhona", 5138 m, 5B category via the Northwest Counterfort, G. Gulnev 67.
- Route type: rock.
- Route elevation gain: 1440 m (by altimeter); route length — 2940 m; length of sections with V category complexity — 250 m; VI category — 130 m; average steepness: main part of the route — 55–60 degrees (up to Gulnev's shoulder); total route — 45 degrees.
- Pitons left on the route: 0.
Pitons hammered on the route:
- Bolt pitons: 2*/1*
- Rock pitons: 8* + 10/2