Ascent Certificate for Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir, traverse, category III complexity.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Serebryanoe valley (Vetryany region), section 6.1.2.
2. Traverse of peaks Goretz Zapadny 2461 m – Goretz Vostochny 2457 m, via the Western Couloir.
3. Proposed category III complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky terrain.
5. Height difference — 500 m, distance — 900 m, average slope — 20°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 15 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours — 7 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Team members:

TRAVERSE DESCRIPTION:

v. BRIG – peak 9 May – North Tower v. TREHGLAVAYA. /EASTERN SAYAN/

• ANGARSK, 1970 – The peaks of the specified traverse are located in the Tunka Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan, in a long lateral spur, which serves as a watershed of the BUGOTOY and KYNGARGA rivers.
• Tunka Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan, stretching in a latitudinal direction.
• The highest point is 3266 m above sea level in the upper reaches of the GANGA-KHAIRY river.
• In general, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. For 100 km – from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west – it has many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with impassable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is 1880 m, on the northern ones – 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peaks of the traverse BRIG – peak 9 May – TREHGLAVAYA are located on a horseshoe-shaped ridge. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — ROCK.
2. Ascent area — EASTERN SAYAN, TUNKINSKIE GOLTSY ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. DINOSAUR, 2716 m, SOUTH BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN RIDGE.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Height difference — 416 m.
6. Average steepness of the buttress — 55°.
7. Length of sections — 4th diff. cat. – 28 m, 5th diff. cat. – 150 m.
8. Pitons driven — rock: 42, ice: for ITO.
9. Number of travel hours — 11 h.

Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights

4344

IRKUTSK REGIONAL FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Description

Ascent to peak "Perya" via the N ridge (Tunkinskie Goltsy) Eastern Sayan Mountains 2996 m. Irkutsk, 1971.

Geographical information, sports characteristics, and history of exploration of the "Moygoto" valley

The Moygoto valley is located in the central part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy mountain range, Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest mountain range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, with the highest point at 3266 m, located in the upper reaches of the Gang-Khairym valley. The range has alpine relief forms and many peaks of interest to mountaineers. The valleys are deep and covered with dense taiga. The tree line lies at an altitude of 1700 m. The snow cover largely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The peak "Perya" is situated in a lateral spur, separated from the main ridge by a deep saddle. The peak's height is 2996 m. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, located 30 km away; Irkutsk is 250 km away. From the valley to the base camp, it is an 8 km ascent through a very difficult-to-access valley (the use of pack transport is not feasible), taking 5-6 hours.

Brief Geographical Overview of the SOAN Peak Area

The SOAN peak (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The ridge is clearly stretched from west to east for 150 km and approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Streams and rivers flowing from the ridge flow into:

• to the south (in the Tunka valley) — into the Irkut River,
• to the north (in the Kitoi valley) — into the Kitoi River. Kitoi and Irkut are left tributaries of the Angara River. The Tunka valley has many mineral springs, one of which is Arshan, which has gained all-Union fame. The wildlife in the area is rich and diverse. The Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge is located on the territory of the Buryat ASSR. The SOAN peak is located in the upper reaches of the Zun-Khandagai River gorge.

Climatological Information

Ascent record of v. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK, 2213 m, via North Ridge, cat. 2A

1. East Sayan, Tunkinskiye Goltsy ridge, Vtoraya Shikhtolayka valley, section 6.1.2. 2. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK peak, 2213 m, via North Ridge. 3. Proposed category: 2A, first ascent. 4. Route type: rock. 5. Height difference 100 m, length 117 m, average slope 60°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock and chock stones 17 pcs. 7. Team's walking hours — 5 h. 8. No overnight stays on the route. 9. Team: Afanasiev A.E. MS Zhambalov Ts.B. badge Karelov P.S. 3rd class Lisov M.A. 3rd class Lipendin I.A. badge Makarov R.V. 3rd class Shvetsov I.V. 3rd class
2. Coach Afanasiev A.E. MS
3. Ascent to the summit and descent on August 24, 2015.

Route description to v. Treni­ro­voch­naya ZK, 2213 m, via North Ridge, cat. 2A

From the base camp at the forest boundary between Dozhdevoye and 2nd Shikhtolayka valleys to

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkin Goltsy;
2. Peak — Trekhg­laya Peak, North Peak via route: Right buttress of the North face
3. Height: 2560 m.
4. Category difficulty is expected, first ascent.
5. Route type — combined.
6. Height difference — 650 m. Route length — 900 m. Average slope — 50°
7. Number of placed cams (piton) — 20 (3).

Traverse of South Tower v. Trekhlavaya via 1B category difficulty route, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in Eastern Sayan

1. Geographical information

The v. Trekhlavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in Eastern Sayan, in a long lateral spur serving as a watershed for the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in Eastern Sayan, stretching in a latitudinal direction. The highest point is 3266 m, located in the upper reaches of the Gang-Kharym river gorge. The ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to mountaineers. The gorges are deep, covered with dense taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely melts by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The v. Trekhlavaya massif consists of three towers — South, Central, and North. The highest is Central, with an elevation of 2511 m above sea level. The height of the South Tower is 2486 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers, it takes 4 hours to ascend the gorge.

2. Route description

56a

Route Description

on the East face of the Central Spire of TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak (2511 m). Group composition: Leader B. M. Belousov, V. M. Kharlamov, N. K. Laptev, Z. M. Boyarkina. Ascent dates: May 5-7, 1972. The group departed from the base camp, located at the forest boundary (≈1700 m), at 6:00 AM towards the lower part of the Central Spire's wall. The approach to the route's starting point takes 40-50 minutes. The route begins approximately 60 meters to the left and above the wall's lowest point, which transitions into scree without flattening. See photos 1, 3. The R0-R1 section follows a small counterfort protruding from the wall, with heavily fragmented rocks. See photo 3. Insurance is set up alternately through ledges. Be cautious of numerous loose rocks. The slope's steepness is 50°. Monolithic rocks follow oblique shelves, transitioning into an ascent to the upper part of this protruding counterfort. At the top of this section, the group changed from crampons to "vibram" boots.

Brief Geographical Overview

of the TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak area, travel to the area, and approach to the base camp. The TRÈKHGLAVAIA Peak area is located in the eastern part of the Tunkinskie Belki ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains. The ridge stretches clearly from west to east for 150 km and approaches the southwestern tip of Lake Baikal. Streams and rivers flowing from the ridge flow into: