ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — North-Eastern Caucasus, Girech
3. Peak — Jarlam via the counterfort of the South wall, rock height m.
4. Proposed complexity category — 3A
5. Height difference Length 500 m. Average steepness 39°
6. Pitons driven: rock 10 pcs. chocks 5 pcs.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.9: from Krestovy Pass to Shaviklde peak
2. Dzharlam, Central, 3160 m, via 3rd ridge Geographic coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude): 42.841989 / 44.827054
3. Proposed — category 3B difficulty, first ascent (classified as 3A)
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference of the route: 300 m Route length: 695 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 50°; total route — 40°.
6. Number of pitons left on the route:

Ascent Passport

1. Area 2.9: from Kreстовый Pass to Shaviklde Peak
2. Dzhartlam, Central, 3160, via South buttress Geographic coordinates of the summit (latitude/longitude): 42.841989 / 44.827054
3. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent (classified as 3A)
4. Route type: rocky
5. Height difference of the route: 300 m Route length: 560 m. Average steepness: main part of the route – 50°; total route – 40°.

REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT TRAVERSE DZharlam CENTRAL 3160 m – DZharlam SOUTH-EAST 3155 m VIA THE ROUTE ALONG THE COUNTERFORT OF THE SOUTHERN WALL AND THE WESTERN RIDGE, FOR CATEGORY COMPLEXITY. BY THE TEAM OF ALPINE CAMPS MANAGEMENT FOR THE PERIOD FROM May 9, 2024 TO May 9, 2024. 2024

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

Ascent Report

1. Area 2.9. From Kre­sto­vy Pass to Sha­vi­kl­de Peak
2. Gaik­omd (C), 3100 m, via the left edge of the Southwest Ridge
3. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 690 m Route length: 805 m. Length of sections:

• I category of difficulty — 35 m
• II category of difficulty — 445 m
• III category of difficulty — 100 m

Ascent Passport

1. Area — from Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak, p. 2.9
2. Peak — Gaikomd Centralny, 3100 m, via South-West edge
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing

5. Route characteristics:

Height difference of the route: 700 m. Route length: 850 m. Length of sections:

• III category of difficulty — 180 m.
• IV category of difficulty — 100 m.
• V category of difficulty — 160 m.

Report

First ascent of Gaikomd Central peak via South-East wall (through the cave)

Climbing Details

1. Climbing area – 2.9. Caucasus, from the Pereval Kreстовый to the peak Shaviklde
2. Object of ascent – Gaikomd peak, via SE wall (through the cave)
3. Category of difficulty ≈ 5B
4. Character of the route – rock climbing
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference – 690 m Route length – 1045 m

Report on the first ascent by the Ingushetia team as part of the winter alpinism championship to the summit of Gaikomd Central 3100 m

via the right buttress of the southern wall. Presumably 5B category of difficulty. Route "SOVA". Team leader: Andreev A.B.

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.9. From Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak
2. Gaikomd (C), 3100 m, via the right buttress of the southern wall
3. Proposed category — 5B, first ascent
4. Route type: rock
5. Height difference: 1000 m. Route length: 1330 m.

Report

On the first ascent of the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Gaikomd Centralny, 3100 m, via the center of the southwest wall (approximately 6A category of complexity) Leader: Ilya N. Penyaev Participant: Maxim V. Kochetkov Coach: Tatyana I. Timoshenko St. Petersburg, 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Region 2.9, from Krestovy Pass to Shaviklde Peak
2. Gaikomd, 3100 m, via the center of the SW wall
3. 6A category of complexity, first ascent

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.