Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Bashkara (4241 m) via the N wall of the 3rd shoulder.
4. Difficulty category — 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 935 m.
   • wall section length — 400 m.
   • height difference — 741 m.
   • average steepness 53°.

117. Bzhedukh via the left ice slope of the Northwest Wall (Yu. Naumov's route, category 3B). The path from the Shhelda alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh Peak with a bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Bzhedukh Glacier or a rocky outcrop under the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh is described in route 116. From the bivouac site, bypass the rocky drop of the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh Peak on the left along the glacier and exit onto a steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the massif to the Bzhedukh Glacier. Ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, overcoming a bergschrund in the lower part, a 600-800-meter ascent (avalanches, piton protection!) along the left side of the Northwest Wall to a snowy rocky ridge located above the rocky drop of the Northwest Wall of the peak. From here, ascend traversing upwards - to the right (avalanches!), crossing numerous couloirs and ridges, to rocky outcrops of a relatively large, clearly pronounced ridge. Then, along a steep snowy ridge - slope, ascend to the North Ridge of Bzhedukh Peak. Here, turn right and ascend along a snowy slope and simple rocks to the summit of Bzhedukh. From the initial bivouac, 9-11 hours. Descent from the summit along the southeast ridge with a bivouac on the col (see route 120). The duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people:

• main rope — 2 × 40 m
• accessory cord — 2 m
• rock pitons — 4–5
• ice screws — 6–8

V. Blud­ukh, 4270 m, via NW wall, cat. dif. 4A, A. Ro­ma­nov's route, 56 From the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp, follow the right side of the Shkhelda gorge down to the Shkhelda glacier. Immediately after reaching the glacier, cross it in the direction of the stream descending from the Bzhe­dukh glacier, and follow its right side. Then, ascend steep grassy slopes to reach the right-bank moraine (relative to the direction of travel) of the Bzhedukh glacier. From the moraine, approach the rocky ridge in the right part of the Bzhedukh glacier and ascend it in its middle section via wide ledges. Follow the ridge to the right, towards its highest point. Set up a bivouac here. 5–6 hours from the “Shkhelda” AU Base Camp.

Ascent Passport:

1. Technical climb category.
2. Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
3. Bzhedug, NW wall, direct line.
4. Assumed 5A category, First ascent.
5. Combined route.
6. Height difference: 700 m, route length: 950 m. Length of category complexity sections 5 — 140 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°. Average steepness of the wall — 70°.

76. bivouac on the Southwest Ridge (route 2B cat. difficulty, I. Daibog, P. Karyev, V. Nikolsky, August 28, 1939). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp along the Shkhelda and Aksu glaciers to the snow plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Aksu glacier with the initial bivouac on "Aristov's Overnight Stay" or on the Northeast Ridge of the Aksu peak is described in route 72. Up the plateau - to the left - exit under the saddle of the ridge - Bivouachny pass, located between the peaks of Bivouachny peak on the left and Fizkulturnik on the right. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund, straight up the steep snowy slope (avalanches!) ascent to the Bivouachny pass. Bivouac on the pass. From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" 6–7 hours. On the pass, turn left and exit under the rock wall of Bivouachny peak. Along the edge of ice and rocks, traverse 40–50 m under the wall to the left, exit to the rocky-snowy Western counterforce. Further, with a 5–8-meter traverse under the overhanging wall (pitons insurance!) move to the left side of the counterforce. Along the steep snow-covered, with ice sections, rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the counterforce (pitons insurance!) 80–100-meter ascent to Bivouachny peak. From Bivouachny pass 1.5–2 hours. Descent via the ascent route. Duration of the route 2 days. It is necessary to have 2–3 ice screws and crampons for all participants. ("Baksan Valley", A. F. Naumov)

Report

On the first ascent of VIAtaou peak via the Northern slope of the Western ridge and the Western ridge, category 2A complexity (combined route) (tentative)

June 17, 2008

Report content:

• Ascent passport sheet 1 p. 1
• General photo of the peak sheet 1 p. 2
• Explanatory text sheet 2 p. 3
• Area map sheet 2 p. 4
• Route profile sheet 3 p. 5
• GPS data decoding sheet 3 p. 6

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Central Caucasus, NW spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Mt. Gumači.
3. Mt. Viatau 3820 m via the 3rd ridge, combined route.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B confirmed.
5. Height difference: 530 m, distance: 1060 m. Length of sections with III category of difficulty: 145 m, IV category of difficulty: 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 47°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 9/0, chocks — 2/0
7. Traveling hours — 5

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — combined.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, east of Chiper pass, from the side of Chiper-Azau glacier.
3. Peak 3858, via West Ridge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A.
5. Height difference of the route 500 m (from Chiper pass).
6. Number of pitons used 5/0, including 2 ice pitons.
7. Number of climbing hours — 9.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac at "Sandy Hotel" 2700 m.

121. Volnaya Ispaniya via West Ridge (Category III route) From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) ascend along the Adylsu gorge road. After 300 m, turn right off the road and descend to cross the Adylsu river on a temporary bridge, above the confluence of the stream from the Kashkatau glacier. From the bridge, the trail goes through a flat forest, then steeply ascends and exits onto the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatau glacier. Further ascent along the trail on the moraine ridge leads to platforms at its end. From here, it's possible to ascend 150-200 m up-left to platforms near the "Rusty" cliffs. The initial bivouac is on the platforms. From the "Dzhantugan" alpine camp, 3-4 hours.

Fig. 13 Fig. 14

3. Ascent to the Herzog peak via the North-Eastern ridge — for the difficulty category (Fig. 13 and 14)

From Dombayskaya Polyana to Turiy Lake — bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac up the moraine, then along the Alibek glacier (the glacier is exposed, belay!) to the rocky gate between the rocks of the northern edge of Herzog and the rocks under the eastern slope of Jalovchat. Up the steep snow-ice slope: