To the Russian Championship in mountaineering in the technical class

Report

on the ascent of the FAiS team from Moscow to v. Shkhelda Central 4295 m via the right edge of the N-wall (5B cat. diff.) Captain: Nilov S.A. Coach: Kuznetsova E.V. V. Martynov's 2nd route 5B, 1955 (the route taken by the team);

Route Profile

Photopanorama of the area

Protocol

of the ascent to v. Shkhelda Central via the North wall (Subortovich route, qualifying), made on June 22, 1980 under the guidance of Radoshkevich E.A. Attendees:

• Head of the training department a/l "Elbrus" — MS Shaposhnikov B.M.
• Head of the rescue camp — Ostrovsky V.M.
• Commander of the 1st detachment of athletes — MS SIVTSOV V.G.
• Radoshkevich E.A. — leader
• Turkevich M.M. — participant
• Feldman G.L. — participant

XIV Open CIS Championship (EAAC) in Alpinism

in the technical class of 2005

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Shkhelda Central via the "Mirror" on the S wall, route by G. Polevoy, 1971, second ascent, 6A category of difficulty Team from Nizhny Tagil. Team leader: Ravilov R.A. Team coach: Ravilov R.A.

Contact addresses and phone numbers

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range
3. Shkhelda Central via the center of the left rock bastion on the northern wall, first ascent
4. Difficulty category – proposed 6A
5. Height difference – 1295 m, route length – 1727 m
6. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 872 m. Length of sections with 6 difficulty category – 347 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route – 65°
7. Pitons hammered: rock – 118, ice – 88, protection gear – 93, bolted – 11
8. Team's working hours – 60, days – 6
9. Overnights:

102. Traverse of Shkhelda massif from east to west (V. Nesterov's route, category 5B). The path from Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Shkhelda Eastern is described in route 100. From the summit, descend 40 m down simple rocks of the Western ridge to a platform. From the platform, bypassing the ridge, descend into huge rock gates between two gendarmes. From the gates, make a 35-meter sporty descent down an icy couloir, followed by two 40-meter rappels and a descent down snowy, steep rocks of medium difficulty, initially down the slope and then along the ridge - a 70-80 m descent to a platform under the 2nd (from the east - 1st) gendarme of the ridge. The platform is a bivouac site. From the platform, bypass the 2nd and 1st gendarmes located on the ridge between the Eastern and Central summits, along a rocky and then snowy shelf, and then along rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the ridge to reach a platform under the ridge connecting the Eastern ridge of Shkhelda Central's rock tower. From the platform, ascend rocks of medium difficulty to the ridge under the Eastern wall, and from it, 40 m up rocks of medium difficulty, and then up difficult rocks of the wall to reach a ledge. Along the ledge, and then across a 6-7-meter smooth, steep slab - traverse right to a chimney. Up the steep, smooth, difficult chimney, ascend 5 m to a second ledge. Along the ledge, bypass a huge rock to the right. Behind the rock - straight up a 20-meter wall ("live" cams!), with small talus ledges - to the ridge of the eastern shoulder of the summit. Up the steep, destroyed ridge of the shoulder, ascend to a small gendarme. Descend from it under the 2nd gendarme, which is bypassed on a ledge from the left, and behind it - exit to a platform above a small gap in the ridge.

101. Traverse of the Shkhelda massif from west to east (L. Nadezhdin's route, category 5B difficulty). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda with the initial bivouac at "Aristov's Overnight Stay" and the second bivouac on the scree of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda is described in route #86. From the summit of Vtoraya Zapadnaya Shkhelda, descend via scree, then via simple, destroyed rocks of the Eastern ridge, overcoming small gendarmeries on destroyed rocks of medium difficulty directly, reaching a small shoulder. From the shoulder, go right and down a couloir, then traverse left along snow-covered ledges and inclined slabs onto the ridge. From here, follow a simple, snow-covered rocky ridge, then a 4-5-meter vertical chimney and a 12-15-meter wall to descend onto a snow col before the large black 1st Western gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. From the col, ascend via a sharp snow ridge (cornices!) with rock outcrops - climb to the base of the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. Bypass the rocky tower by traversing along the ice-snow slope, then along inclined snow-covered slabs on the right. After a short descent along the ridge, continue descending via difficult and medium-difficulty rocks of the wall on the right side of the ridge, leaving a figurative gendarme on the right, and descend onto a snow col under the 2nd gendarme. From the col, ascend via rocks of medium difficulty on the steep, sharp rocky ridge to reach the 2nd gendarme of the Builders' Ridge. The ascent is possible:

• by traversing along a ledge on the right side of the ridge,
• then directly upwards via difficult rocks of a 40-50-meter wall.

110. Peak Shchurovskogo via North-Eastern Ridge (route by V. Pelevin, category 4B complexity). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) along the Shkhelda Glacier to the "Shkhelda bivouacs" is described in route 105. From the "Shkhelda bivouacs" cross the left branch of the Shkhelda Glacier upwards to the right and descend under the right side of the false Chatyn pass. From the glacier, ascend the steep snowy slope and through a bergschrund reach the rocks. Ascend along moderately difficult snowy rocks, then along easy terrain to the right side of the ridge saddle — the false Chatyn pass. From the saddle, turn right and move up along easy rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Peak Shchurovskogo. Bypass the

Report

On the ascent of Peak Shchurovsky via the northwest route, category 5B difficulty

TEAM LEADER: SHABALIN B.I. — Candidate Master of Sports COACH: SHATAEV V.N. — Master of Sports Moscow 1969

Team Composition