Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region
3. Peak Dalar, 3979 m
4. Route — via the left part of the north-eastern wall of the bastion, first ascent, proposed 6A category of difficulty
5. Route elevation gain — 1430 m, route length — 1740 m, average slope — 68°, bastion wall elevation gain — 760 m, bastion wall length — 780 m, average slope — 80°. section lengths
   • category 5 — 800 m
   • category 6 — 320 m

TO THE MAIN JUDICIAL COMMISSION OF THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR Report on the ascent to the summit of Dalar via the northeastern wall with an exit to the summit tower via the northern edge, as entered in the 1969 USSR Alpine Championship by the team from the Leningrad Mountain Sports Committee.

Team captain and ascent leader — B. KORABLIN

Leningrad, 1969 Northeastern wall of Dalar peak. Due to various reasons, STEPANOV V.V. and CHERNOSLIVIN Yu.I. were unable to travel to the Caucasus this year, and therefore they did not join the assault group. KORSHUNOV D.M. could not be replaced at the time the team started the ascent (he was working as an instructor), and VELIKANOV V.P. was included in the main team.

27

USSR Climbing Federation

XXXIV USSR Climbing Championship, Rock Climbing Category

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperaza pass 3. Mt. Dalar, right part of the North Face (V. Shopin route) 4. Category 5B difficulty, third ascent 5. Route elevation gain — 760 m, route length — 1060 m, wall elevation gain — 500 m, wall length — 640 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 370+280=650 m. Average steepness of the wall — 70° (3270–3720 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock bolt anchors 149/24 (0+7)/(–87/11) 7. Team's walking hours — 28 and days — 2. 8. Joint snow overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

I. Rock climbing category 2. Caucasus. From Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass. 3. Dalar peak (3979 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder. 4. Difficulty category - 5B (third ascent of the route) 5. Route characteristics: height difference R0–R15 - 700 m, length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 610 m, including 400 m on the shoulder wall R0–R12, average steepness of the shoulder wall R0–R12 - 81°. 6. Pitons hammered: for rock protection (including chocks) 99(35), for creating artificial support points 10(4), ice screws (on descent) - (4), bolt pitons - - 7. Total climbing hours - 23 hours 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two good bivouacs in a tent.

CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE VOLGA AND URAL FEDERAL DISTRICTS IN ALPINISM TECHNICAL AND ALTITUDE CLASS

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT DALAR (3988 m) VIA THE NORTH-EAST FACE OF THE EASTERN SHOULDER, CATEGORY 5B COMPLEXITY (POROKHNI YU.I. ROUTE) BY THE TEAM FROM SAMARA REGION AND PERM TERRITORY FOR THE PERIOD FROM AUGUST 16 TO 17, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Zankina Daria Viktorovna, 1st sports rank

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIPS HIGH-TECHNICAL CLASS 2024

Report on the ascent of Dalar peak (3988 m) via the North-Eastern wall of the Eastern shoulder (Yu. Porokhnya Route, 1978), 5B cat. diff., combined. July 29, 2024 – July 31, 2024.

Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Danil A. Kadyrmaev, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Mikhail D. Marakuev, 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of coach, sports rank	O.A. Yakimenko MS, P.Yu. Fominykh CMS
1.4	Organization	St. Petersburg Alpine Federation, a/c "Gornyak", a/c "Voenmekh"

Ascent Certificate

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Region — Western Caucasus, Gvandra region.
3. Peak DALAR, 3979 m, via the north-eastern wall of the bastion.
4. Category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, bastion — 780 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 850 m, average steepness of the bastion — 76° (2780–3560 m), sections with 6 category difficulty — 85° (3010–3050 m).
6. Pitons hammered: | Type | Rock | Bolt | Chock | Ice | | :--------------- | :--- | :--- | :---- | :--- |

Ascent Logbook

1. Technical Climbing Category.
2. Climbing Area: Caucasus, Kichkinekol Valley.
3. Route: Dalar — Zamok, traverse along the Northern wall of the bastion (Warburton).
4. Difficulty Category: 6B category.
5. Height Difference: 1030 m.
   • Bastion height difference – 500 m.
   • Route length – over 3 km.
   • Length of sections with 5th category difficulty – 665 m.
   • Length of sections with 6th category difficulty – 155 m.

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: