Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT SVERDLOVSK VIA THE "1000 LETIYA GORODA BRESTA" ROUTE ALONG THE CENTRAL WESTERN COUNTERFORT, CATEGORY 3B, BY THE TEAM: BREST REGIONAL PUBLIC ASSOCIATION OF ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING "VERSHINA" FOR THE PERIOD FROM JUNE 26, 2019 TO JUNE 26, 2019

I. Climbing Report

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Dedushko Nikita Gennadyevich, 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Panova Alyona Mikhailovna, Candidate Master of Sports, Marchuk Nikita Ivanovich, 3rd sports rank, Andreev Grigory Alekseyevich, 3rd sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Dedushko Nikita Gennadyevich

Ascent Passport

Area — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai gorge Peak — Sever 2826 m. GPS coordinates — 51°54′35.76″N 102°0′3.11″E Route:

• Via the Southeast ridge, proposed category 2B. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Route description:
• Height difference 320 m.
• Route length approximately 400 m.
• Average steepness of the route 52°.

Irkutsk Regional Public Organization "Club of Active Leisure and Alpinism Gory Baikala"

Report on the First Ascent

To v. Sibir' 2870 m via the Eastern ridge. Approximately 2A category of difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie goltsy, Baruun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
2. Sibir' 2870 m (summit coordinates: 51°54′48.53″N, 102°10′13.40″E) via the Eastern ridge.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 2A first ascent.
4. Nature of the route — rocky.
5. Route elevation gain: 324 m. Route length: 460 m.

Primorskaya Federation of Alpinism and Mountaineering

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Sibir 2870 m via the Center of the North Face. Approximately 5A category of difficulty.

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Rubtsov Vasily Alexandrovich – 1st sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Shatalov Nikita Andreevich – 1st sports rank Kupchik Polina Valerievna – 1st sports rank
1.3	Full Name of Coach	none

Brief historical and geographical outline of the Ganga Khairym valley.

The Ganga Khairym valley has attracted mountaineers since the very beginning of the development of the Tunkin Goltsy. Here is located the highest point of the ridge — 3284 m, Mount Strelnikova, named after one of the border guards who died during the military conflict on Damansky Island in 1969. Who was the first to ascend it is not established. The valley is referred to by different names on various maps:

• Ganga Khairym,
• Ganga Khairym. In the mountaineering community, the valley has historically been known as Khairym. In the 1960s, a group of Irkutsk mountaineers made the first ascent of the 3187 m peak. The first to reach the summit was Starkov, and with his arms raised and the exclamation: "The summit is ours!", he fell flat on the summit snowdrift. (V. "Desirable, ferocious, beautiful".) The snowdrift was a wind-blown cornice that collapsed into the Bi valley cirque along with the first ascendant. 3187 came to be known as Starkov Peak. Between 1970 and 1979, there were several mountaineering events in the Ganga Khairym valley. In November 1974, the last mountaineering event took place in this area. In 1974, during a mountaineering event on the peak named after Stanevich A.M. (who made the first ascent in 1973), Rabnovskaya Tamara Alyussanovna (Propltagas) died in an avalanche.

Ascent passport to the summit

Ascent Log

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Eastern Sayan–Tunkin Goltsy, Kyngarga valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Trekhglavaya, 2511, Central peak via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 450 m. Average steepness — 55° Length of section: 5–6 pitches — 24 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belaying and creating artificial anchors: Rock — 49, ice — none, bolted — none.

Traverse of the Northern and Central Towers

V. Trekhglavaya with ascent along the NE ridge of the Northern Tower via route 2B category of difficulty

1. Geographical information

The V. Trekhglavaya massif is located in the Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, in a long lateral spur that serves as a watershed between the Bugotoy and Kyngarga rivers. Tunkinskie Goltsy is the highest ridge in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, stretching latitudinally for hundreds of km. The highest point is 3266 m above sea level, located in the upper reaches of the Ganga-Kharym river. Overall, the ridge has sharp alpine forms. Within 100 km from the Arshan resort in the east to the Shumak pass in the west, there are many peaks of great interest to climbers. The gorges are deep, covered with impenetrable taiga. The forest boundary on the southern slopes is at 1880 m, on the northern slopes at 1600–1700 m. The snow cover almost completely disappears by the end of summer. There is no glaciation. The V. Trekhglavaya massif consists of three towers - South, Central, and North. The highest is the Central Tower, with a height of 2511 m above sea level. The nearest settlement is the Arshan resort, 225 km from Irkutsk. From the resort to the Base camp at the confluence of the Right and Left Kyngarga rivers - 4 hours walk (uphill to the gorge).

2. Route description

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "FLIBUSTIER" VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, 2860

Group Composition

KUZNETSOV YU.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 4B, 5A, 5A — team leader MUKHORTOV M.V. — 2nd sports category, 9 ascents of 4th category difficulty, 5A — participant KUPRINA N.S. — 2nd sports category, 4A, 4A, 4B, 5A MIKHAILOV A.A. — 2nd sports category, 4A Irkutsk, 1971 Brief Geographical Characteristics The summit "Flibustier" is located in the southern lateral spur of the Tunka ridge. Its eastern slope drops into the valley of the Moygota river, and the western slope — into the valley of the Biron river. The described route is laid from the Moygota river gorge. The entrance to the gorge is located 25–30 km from the Arshan resort. A dirt road allows driving to the gorge by truck.

Peak KhFTI-80 via the S ridge. Ovcharenko V.D. Elbrus E ridge # 2.4

Report

On the first ascent of Peak KhFTI-80 via the southern ridge from Assol Pass

Team of climbers from the National Science Center "Kharkov Institute of Physics and Technology"

2009

Passport

1. Elbrus region, Irik-Chat gorge, # 2.4
2. Peak KhFTI-80, height 3760 m; via the southern ridge from Assol Pass; coordinates of the summit: 43°19′16″ ± 10″ N, 42°32′37″ ± 10″ E.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.