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Route Description: Ю террасе З гребня
Ascent to the summit of Urschoch Zentral (3290 m) via the South Terrace of the West Ridge, difficulty category 3A, length 1250 m, height difference 430 m.
Ascent Passport.
- Caucasus. Rocky ridge. Kionsky massif. Section number in the Classification 2.7.
- Urschoh Central (3290 m) — via the South Terrace of the Western ridge.
- Proposed category: 3A, first ascent.
- Route type — rock.
- Height difference of the route — 430 m (by GPS). Total route length — about 1250 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 10 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 95°. Average steepness of the route — 35°.
- Pitons left on the route — none.
Route Description: С стене и СЗ ребру
### Ascent Route to Khitsan Peak via North Face and Northwest Ridge, Category 3 Complexity, Climbed by a Group of Mountaineers in 1980.
ASCENT LOG
- Ascent category - rock climbing
- Ascent area - Caucasus (2.7 from Gurdziptsек pass to Mamison pass)
- Peak, its height, and ascent route - peak Khitsan, 3600 m, via the North face and North-West ridge
- Proposed category difficulty - 3B
- Route characteristics: Height difference - 400 m Length of sections with 4th-5th category difficulty - 55 m Average steepness - 58°
- Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating Intermediate Technical Objects (ITO)
Route Description: кф. СЗ гребня
Report on the ascent to the summit of Hitsan-khokh via the northwest ridge spur, category 4B difficulty, with a detailed description of the route and its passage.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Khitsan-khokh via the buttress of the NW ridge, approximately category 4B difficulty
of the team from the "Tsey" alpine camp
300, 745, M V 155, 300, 201 60°, 54 rock pitons, 55 chocks, 8 hours total time
Team leader V.A. Karabash
Team coach V.S. Neborak
"Tsey" Alpine Camp — 1984
Photo 2. Profile of the buttress from the left. Lower part. Taken on August 5, 1984, from point #2, ~300 m, T-43, P = 40 mm
Route Description: кф. СЗ гребня
Ascent to the summit of Hitsan-khokh (3500 m) via the Northwest Ridge, difficulty category 4, Caucasus, August 1984.
ASCENT PASS
- Ascent class — rock climbing
- Ascent area — Caucasus, from Gurdzivtseck pass to Mamison pass
- Khitsan-khokh peak, height 3500 m, via the spur of the North-West ridge
- Proposed difficulty category — 4B
- Route characteristics: Height difference 300 m. Route length 745 m, including sections of 3rd diff. cat. — 155 m, sections of 4th diff. cat. — 300 m,
Route Description: Ю стене
Report on the first ascent of the route category 2A on the South face of Ursxox 2nd Eastern peak in North Ossetia.
Report
on the first ascent to the summit of Urskhok 2nd Eastern, via the South wall, category 2A difficulty, by the team from the alpinism club "Kaskad", from July 7 to 8, 2020 2020 year
1. Ascent Passport
| №№ | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports category of participants | Shmonova N.A. — 3rd sports category, Shmonov A.V. — 3rd sports category. |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Egorin S.V. |
| 1.4 | Organization | Alpinism Club "Kaskad" |
Route Description: СЗ ребру и правой части С стены
Winter ascent of 2A category of complexity to the summit of Arkhon Maly via the North-West ridge and the right part of the North wall in the Caucasus.
Ascent Record
- Ascent classification: winter.
- Ascent area: Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Tsadjiudon gorge.
- Peak, route: Arkhon Maly (3984 m), via the Northwest Ridge and the right part of the North Face.
- Estimated difficulty category: 6A winter, first ascent.
- Height difference:
- 1135 m.
- of which the wall section is 250 m.
- length of the wall section — 255 m.
- total route length — 1680 m.
Route Description: СЗ кф.
Report on the first ascent of Peak Atarbek Tedeev via the North-West Buttress, Cat. 1B diff.
Report on the first ascent of Pik Atarbeka Tedeeva, 3239 m via the Northwest Counterfort
Approximately — 1B category of difficulty. Completed by a group of climbers from the Mountain Sports Federation of the Republic of South Ossetia on August 20, 2015, led by Tedeev Tamerlan Taimurazovich. Address: Republic of South Ossetia, Tskhinval, A. Dzhioev Avenue, 114, Tedeev_t@mail.ru +79284848861
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, section number in the classifier 2.8:, south of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Tsidon river gorge to the west and the Djodzhora river gorge to the east.
- Pik Atarbeka Tedeeva (3239 m), via the Northwest Counterfort.
- Assumed 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route character — rocky.
- Route height difference is about 300 m.
Route Description: Ю стене
Description of a new Category 3B route on the South Face of Dashtsar peak (2918 m) in the Caucasus, including details of the ascent and recommendations.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus, Rock Ridge, Classification section number 2.8.
- Dashtsar (2918 m) – via the South face.
- Proposed category: 3B, first ascent.
- Route type — rock climbing.
- Route elevation gain — 320 m (from point R0). Total route length — 580 m. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 20 m. Crux pitch steepness — up to 95°. Average steepness of the wall section — 70°.
- Pitons left on the route — 3. Pitons used on the route — 9. Chocks used on the route — 15.
Route Description: З кф.
Ascent to the summit of Donchenta North (4082 m) via the Western Counterfort, complexity category 2A, rock route, height difference 900 m.
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus. Lateral Ridge, Tsariutdon gorge, section number in KMGV 2.8.
- Donchenty North (4082 m) via the Western counterfort.
- 2A category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route character — rocky.
- Route height difference — 900 m. Total route length — about 1800 m. Average route steepness — 30°.
- Pitons driven: rocky — 6, ice — 2, placements — 2.
- Travel hours — 12; days — 1.
Route Description: В гребню
Ascent to Janlyk peak (4A cat. grade) via the Eastern ridge, detailed route description, required equipment, and possible bivouac locations.
Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)
The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:
- Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
- Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
- Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
- Turn right here.
- Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
- Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.