ASCENT REPORT

1. Ascent category: Snow and Ice
2. Ascent area: Yazgulem Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: P. 6047 m, via the northwestern slope
4. Proposed category: 3A, protocol 547, part 10, dated February 5, 1985
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 30°, section lengths — R0–R1 300 m, R1–R2 40 m, R2–R3 200 m, R3–R4 80 m, R4–R5 1000 m, R5–R6 20 m, R6–R7 100 m
6. Number of pitons: ice screws 30
7. Climbing time: 14 hours
8. Number of bivouacs: 2
9. Names of the team leader and participants, their climbing qualifications:

Climbing Passport

I Climbing class: high-altitude technical II Climbing area: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge III Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, via the south-eastern ice slope with exit to the south-western ridge. IV Proposed difficulty category: 4B V Route characteristics: a) height difference 2047 b) average steepness: 43° c) section lengths: I⁺) 1150 m, II⁺) 50 m, III 650 m, IV 320 m, V 350 m

Report

on the ascent of Peak Revolyutsii via the right part of the southeastern wall, ice-snow route, (A. Zaydler's route, 1976) category 5B, by the team of the Moscow Aviation Institute (MAI) alpinism club (Moscow), August 21, 2013.

Moscow, 2013 Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude
2. Ascent area: Pamir, Yagnóblemsky Ridge
3. Summit, its height, ascent route: Peak Oktyabr'skoy Revolyutsii, 6940 m, via the right part of the southeastern wall from the Khabarvivkhats Glacier.
4. Difficulty category: 5B

46

USSR ARMED FORCES REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII – 6974 m VIA THE SOUTHWEST WALL FROM THE BARTANG VALLEY, MADE BY THE USSR ARMED FORCES TEAM IN 1968 1968 Fig. 2. Southwest wall of Pik Revolyutsii. The route taken is shown with a dotted line. The photo was taken from the summit of 6254 m. Photo #3. Southwest wall of Pik Revolyutsii. The team ascends via the southern ridge:

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazgulemsky ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Yazgulem. Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12.
2. Summit name: Peak Rokzou. Route name: from Rokzou Glacier via the serac zone of the southwestern slope.
3. Proposed – category 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Elevation gain: 1320 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4400 m. Length of sections:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Yazgulem Range, Central Pamir.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Kholodnaya Stena, 5959 m. Eastern wall (right part).
4. Expected difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1700 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty level — 1299 m, average steepness — 80°
6. Number of driven pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial footholds: rock — 388/17

— I.O. —

Section: a monolithic rock wall, complicated by an eave in its middle part.

• Free climbing 45–46
• Traverse left under the eave
• Snow possible in the cracks 46–47
• Eave. Traverse from left to right using artificial aids 47–49
• Rock walls with a large number of holds. Free climbing 49–50 Snow and ice slope leading to the ridge 50–51. Rock ascent 51–52 Ice "mushroom" — an overhanging section. Protection with ice screws 52–58 Rock ascent. Many loose rocks 58–54. Snow and ice cornice. Broken through by

Ascent Log

1. Western Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
2. Peak 4723 m, via the eastern slope (first ascent)
3. Proposed category — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Route elevation gain — 170 m (by altimeter). Route length — 260 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route — 50°.
   • entire route — 35–40°.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class – technical
2. Ascent area – Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route – p. 5700 m, from Gantman's Pass along the SW ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category – 3A combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m, average steepness – 30°, section lengths – R1–300 m; R2–280 m; R3–328 m; R4–80 m
6. Number of pitons for protection: for creating belays
   • rock – 6
   • ice – 31
7. Number of travel hours – 6 hours

Ascent Log

1. Climbing grade — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperaza Pass to Ortokara peak.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Latsga (3999 m) eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m average steepness — 52° length of sections — 5th cat. diff. — 197 m
6. Pitons hammered: for belay and for creating R.P.E. rock pitons 56