Fig. 20

2. Traverse of Белала-кай from the North — Category 3B difficulty (Fig. 20)

From Медвежья поляна upwards — to the right towards the rocky ridge, then along the grassy slopes and through the stream along the grassy couloir to the bivouac site. From Домбайская поляна — 4 hours. From the bivouac:

• to the right — upwards through the scree to the snowfield (in teams) and 100–120 m below the northern edge to a narrow shelf ( крюк! );
• then traverse to the left — upwards for 30–35 m (2–3 крюк! );
• then to the right — upwards along the steep rocks to the second wall;

Fig. 19

1. Ascent to the summit of Belalakaya (3851 m) via the southern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 19)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the streamlet descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Across the streamlet onto the snowfield and 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrudzhinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!), straight up the steep section to the trail and along it to the Medvezh'ya (Bear's) clearing. From the Medvezh'ya clearing first across alpine meadows (trail), further across snow and 300–350 m east of Belalakaya slopes — exit to the Sofrudzhinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain: 5–6 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams) up — right across the glacier and left of the rocky outcrop (beware rockfalls from Belalakaya slopes!) exit to the Belalakay pass. From the pass across easy rocks of the ridge up and further across two gendarmes (piton belay!) to the third one. Ascent along the ridge of the third gendarme to the steep part, then detour left along the ledge to a narrow couloir, up the couloir to a notch and through it around the gendarme exit to the ridge (belay!). From the ridge right — down 5–7 m, exit to quartz rocks and across them ascent to the ridge. Along the ridge up to the scree and across it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit 6–7 hours. Descent along the ascent route to the bivouac takes 4–5 hours. Ascent variation:

• Bypass the rocky outcrop
• Ascent right across the snowy slope to the couloir
• Ascent up the couloir 70–80 m

Rostov Region Climbing and Mountaineering Federation

Report

on the ascent to the summit Baduk-bashi 3588 m via the eastern ridge presumably category 2B, first ascent 2014

Climbing Passport

1. Region: Western Caucasus, Aksaut area, Bolshaya Marka gorge, section 2.2 of the mountain route classifier.
2. Summit: Baduk-bashi, via the eastern ridge.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.

Route Description

From the "conical moraine" of the Amanauz glacier, you need to approach the first step of the glacier along its central part. The first step is bypassed under the slopes of the Juguтурлючат massif. After reaching the plateau of the first step, to approach the wall, you need to pass through the icefall. The landmark for the direction of movement is the rocky ridge that limits the icefall along the eastern slope of Uzlovaya Amanauz. The icefall should be traversed along its central part (R1) to the level of the beginning of the rocky ridge, then approach the rocks and along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to the ice falls under the wall of Uzlovaya Amanauz. The approach to the beginning of the route is first along the rocky ridge, then in the central part of the icefall, transition to the wall. A bivouac under the wall can be arranged on one of the terraces of the icefall. The landmark for the beginning of the route is the rusty rocks in the lower part of the wall, cut by a deep groove. There are many stones on the ice in this part, brought down by winter snow from the terrace behind the wall's bend. In the summer, the approach to the wall is practically safe. To exit to the wall, you need to overcome the bergschrund. At the end of July, the bergschrund is greatly torn (R2). Through the "plug," approach the rocks and through the ice cornice back to the rocks.

ASCENT ROUTES TO:

• AMANAUZ UZLOVOY PEAK via W. RIDGE, Cat. 4A diff.
• AMANAUZ (Uzlovoy - Glavny) PEAKS, TRAVERSE, Cat. 4A diff.

Traverse

of the Amanauz and Sofrudju massif with ascent to Dvuzubka via the East wall 6A Team of the Moscow City Council of the DSO "Spartak" Coach and team leader - Master of Sports of the USSR Kavunenko V.D. Moscow 1964

Brief geographical and sporting characteristics of Dvuzubka peak

Dvuzubka peak is located in the mountainous part of the Karachay-Cherkess Autonomous Region of Stavropol Krai. To the east of the Sofrudju snow dome, a sharp decline begins towards the Amanauz Pass saddle, then the ridge rises by more than 250 m, forming a huge three-peak massif:

• Main Amanauz

REPORT

on the ascent of Mt. Amanaus via the Main route on the East wall (“Dvuzubka”, control and evaluation route by Kavunenko, category 5B), made by the instructors of “Alibek” alpine camp Sorokin A.G. and Akhtyrsky O.A. from August 1 to 4, 1977.

Explanations for the table

The table of main characteristics shows the indicators of the route taken from August 1 to 4, 1977. Leaving the bivouac under the wall on August 1, 1977 at 8:00, the group started moving along the route without prior processing. After the preceding bad weather, the passage of the beginning of the route was difficult due to:

• fresh snow on the rocks;
• flow ice. The wall is lit by the sun from 6:00 to 12:00 and by the end of this time it is practically clear of fresh snow. For insurance and creation of belays, 8 piton hooks hammered in by previously passing groups were used. The group did not hammer in their own pitons, and they consider bending the lugs of the pitons to be impractical. The following groups will have to hammer them in approximately the same places, which will slightly complicate their passage, but will lead to cluttering of the route.

REPORT

On the ascent to the summit of Amanauz Glavny via the Eastern wall (Dvuzubka, the control and test route by Kavunenko, category 5B) carried out by the instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp consisting of:

• Kovalevsky V.A.,
• Andryushchenko A.V.,
• Bashtinsky A.I. from August 2, 1977, to August 4, 1977.

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE TABLE

R0–R1: start of the route. 0.5 rope length along the smoothed wet rocks of the black slab.

• R1–R2: 1.5 rope lengths ascent to a ledge, traverse left along it, and exit to a spalled rock.
• R2–R3: 0.5 rope length complex climbing, slab-like smoothed rocks, artificial technical means (И.Т.О.), exit into an internal corner. R3–R4: 1.5 rope lengths along the internal corner to the "grotto". Rocks are like "ram's foreheads". Rockfall hazard!

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Region of ascent — Caucasus, Dombay.
3. Ascent to the summit Amanauz (Dvuzubka) via the east wall 3600 m, category 6A. Kavunenko Route.
4. Height difference of the wall section is 695 m. Total route length is 804 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty is 135 m.
5. Average steepness of the wall section is 62°.
6. Number of pitons driven: | Rock | Ice | Bolt | Chocks | | :--- | :--- | :---- | :------ | | 21+7 | 0 | 25 | 120 |

Ascent Passport 21

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent region

• rock climbing
• Caucasus, 2–2. from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass

3. Peak, its height, and route: Main Dvuzyub (Dvuzubka), ascents

• 3757 m, via the north-eastern slope through the "зеркало" (mirror)

4. Proposed category of mountain difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics

• height difference — 957 m, including 800 m to Dvuzubka peak, average steepness