Fig. 19

1. Ascent to the summit of Belalakaya (3851 m) via the southern ridge — category III difficulty (Fig. 19)

From Dombay plain across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the streamlet descending from the large Belalakaya couloir. Across the streamlet onto the snowfield and 300–350 m up. Then left into the Sofrudzhinsky couloir (rockfall hazard!), straight up the steep section to the trail and along it to the Medvezh'ya (Bear's) clearing. From the Medvezh'ya clearing first across alpine meadows (trail), further across snow and 300–350 m east of Belalakaya slopes — exit to the Sofrudzhinsky bivouac. From Dombay plain: 5–6 hours.

From the bivouac (in rope teams) up — right across the glacier and left of the rocky outcrop (beware rockfalls from Belalakaya slopes!) exit to the Belalakay pass. From the pass across easy rocks of the ridge up and further across two gendarmes (piton belay!) to the third one. Ascent along the ridge of the third gendarme to the steep part, then detour left along the ledge to a narrow couloir, up the couloir to a notch and through it around the gendarme exit to the ridge (belay!). From the ridge right — down 5–7 m, exit to quartz rocks and across them ascent to the ridge. Along the ridge up to the scree and across it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit 6–7 hours.

Descent along the ascent route to the bivouac takes 4–5 hours.

Ascent variation:

• Bypass the rocky outcrop
• Ascent right across the snowy slope to the couloir
• Ascent up the couloir 70–80 m
• Exit to the counterfort and ascent along it up to the wall

The wall is the most difficult section of the route:

• Traverse the wall right 60–70 m (piton belay!)
• Further up 60 m across easier rocks to the southern ridge
• Progression along the southern ridge to the summit

On descent — down the wall by rappel.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — not more than 6 people.
2. Initial bivouac — upper Sofrudzhinsky overnight stay.
3. Time of departure from the bivouac — not later than 4 am.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2 m; c) rock pitons — 6–8; d) rock hammers — 2; e) carabiners — 8.
5. Possible bivouac locations: 1st — on Belalakay pass; 2nd — behind the third gendarme; 3rd — on the summit.