12

Route №13

“Wedding” (“The Hole”)

2A IV 260 m (7 pitches). Average passage time — 3–5 hours. The easiest route to the summit of Chelebi-Yaurun-Beli, however, climbers should be able to navigate the terrain well. The starting point of the route is a horizontal shelf, on the western edge of which a tree grows. Two memorial plaques dedicated to deceased climbers can serve as landmarks. R0–R1: 30 m. Go left along the shelf to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Insurance point on the tree.

• 10 m I
• 20 m II–III R1­–R2: 40 m. This is the most difficult section of the route. Up through simple rocks to a rock spall. Continue moving up through it and then through simple sloping rocks to a large shelf overgrown with trees. Insurance point on one of them.
• 15 m II
• 10 m IV

Russian Championship

Report of the Rostov Region team Class of altitude-technical ascents Foros cliff. Big fountain 5B category of difficulty Winter ascent

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Crimea, Foros cliff, southwestern part of the Crimean coast. Height 660 m above sea level.

On the right side of the southeast wall, 5A (option 4B)

The route passes on the left side of a wide internal corner, which cuts vertically through the entire wall. The internal corner leads to a lowering of the ridge between the peaks of Forossky Kant and Mshatka-Kaya and is a conditional boundary between them. The last section of the route, which passes through a sheer wall with two small ledges, is the most difficult. It can be replaced by an ascent along the несложной upper part of the wide internal corner. In this case, the complexity of the route is reduced by half a category (option). From the road, near the alpine camps, 200 m up along the trail, and then 50 m along simple rocks to a grotto located at the base of the internal corner (R0: 250 m, 20–40, no tech). On the section R1–R2 — from the grotto up, first on the right side of the internal corner, and then along smooth slabs to a long horizontal shelf. Further (section R2–R3), traverse along the shelf 20 m to the left (R1–R2: 40 m, 70°, III+; 20 m, 70°, II). On the section R3–R5 — up along a steep, smooth wall with a small number of cracks (R3–R5: 30 m, 75°, V+; 50 m, 75°, V). On the section R5–R6 — up and to the right along rocks of medium complexity (R5–R6: 40 m, 70°, III). On the section R6–R7 — up and to the left 20 m along simple rocks to the base of a large vertical internal corner (R6–R7: 20 m, 60°, I). On the last section of the route — up along the left sheer 30-meter wall of the internal corner with two small ledges. The ledges are passed head-on (R7–peak: 30 m, 80°, V+).

Foros Kant — 2B "Bolshoy Fontan"

Massif: Chelebi (657 m); Difficulty: 5A, VI, A2 Author: A. Lavrinenko, A. Kuzmenko Year of route creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 255 m Time to complete: 6–7 hours The route is located in the right part of the Foros Kant wall. The start is to the right of the "Rhombs" route. The approach is the same as for "Rhombs", but instead of turning left at the end, move up towards a large juniper growing under the wall. The start of the route is about 10 meters to the left. The general direction of movement is towards the left edge of the group of trees in the lower part of the wall. R0–R1 45 m. Initially, climb the slab, then continue on aid, there is a bolt, exit into a crack, ascend the crack to a mulda with trees; the belay station is on the upper left tree. (5 m V; 10 m A2; 15 m V; 15 m IV) R1–R2 45 m. From the tree, move up and left for 5 m, then ascend through cracks, slightly left; the terrain is rich, you can climb for about 10 m until reaching an overhang. Under the overhang, there is a bolt. From the bolt, climb up the slab using skyhooks (one relief, followed by two holey ones) to a tree. From the tree, move up and right through a small corner to reach a ledge. Climbing is tense at first, becoming easier after about 10 m. The belay station is on a tree. (15 m V; 5 m A2; 10 m V; 10 m III) R2–R3 40 m. From the ledge, ascend through an internal corner, initially by free climbing, and then on aid in the upper part.

Along the southeastern wall to the right of the "diamond" (right diamond), 5B (route by P. Denisenko, 1978) *

This is one of the prestigious routes of the Foros Cant. Below is a new version of the route description, prepared by A. Lav­ri­nen­ko. The route goes along the right part of the southeastern wall. From the road at the alpinist camps under Foros Cant, move up and to the left First along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30, uncategorized). On the section R1–R2 — up the slabs to an inclined shelf with a large stump (R1–R2: 30 m, 65°, IV). On the section R2–R3 — first to the right and up along the inner corner to a small tree (30 m, 65°, IV).

Via the Southeast Wall Left of the "Diamond" (Left Diamond), 5B (route by A. Volkodav, 1973)

The route passes through the right part of the southeast wall. From the road near the mountaineering campsites, move upwards and leftwards, initially along the trail and then across the scree (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, no category). On the R1–R2 section — climb up through moderately steep slabs to a ledge with a large forked tree stump (R1–R2: 35 m, 70°, — IV). On the R2–R3 section — traverse left along the ledge to the base of an internal corner (with a piton under the corner) and then up the corner with a tree growing in the middle. Despite the short length of this section, it's convenient to set up a belay point at the top of the corner (there's a piton), as the direction of ascent changes and it will be challenging to pass the rope further (R2–R3: 20 m, 70°, IV). On the R3–R4 section — traverse left for 12 m and then climb up a slab from a piton towards a deciduous tree. From the tree, ascend through a weakly defined internal corner with a crack. After 20 m, the crack ends at a plug/cornice. Above the plug, there's a convenient belay point on pitons. Characteristics of the R3–R4 section:

• 12 m, 60°, III
• 10 m, 80°, V
• 20 m, 85°, VI On the R4–R5 section — climb up through a crack and slab to a ledge under an overhanging wall.

Through the center of the southeastern wall via the cornice Semerka (Semerka), 5a (route by P. Denisenko, 1976), variant by V. Shushlyapin "Semerka on the left", 5B *)

The route goes through the center of the southeastern wall via a cornice, which resembles a seven in its shape. A landmark for its beginning can be a large juniper bush growing in the lower part of the wall. From the road near the alpinist parking under Forosskiy Kant, move up and left, first along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, category I). On the section R1–R2 — up 30 m to a wild strawberry tree (Bestydnitsa) (R1–R2: 30 m, 80°, IV). On the section R2­–R3 — first traverse 10 m left to a crevice, and then up along a vaguely expressed internal corner. Having overcome a short overhanging wall, move towards the juniper bush (R2­–R3: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R3­–R4 — first left and up 25 m along a chip to a dry tree on a ledge. Above the ledge is an overhanging wall. It is passed first on the left through a crevice, and then — along the internal corner (R3­–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+). On the section R4–R5 — first up and right along the internal corner to a green bush located to the left of the lower part of the Semerka cornice. Then move to the upper corner of the cornice (R4–R5: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R5–R6 — first pass the cornice straight up. Then traverse right 8 m along a ledge to a vertical internal corner. Up along the corner to a horizontal ledge, and then traverse 10 m left (R5–R6: 40 m, 80°, V). On the section R6–R7 — up along smooth inclined slabs to a ledge (R6–R7: 40 m, 75°, IV).

SOUTHERN FEDERAL DISTRICT ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP 2020

ASCENT REPORT FOR FOROSKII KANT SUMMIT via the inner corner of the Southeast wall “Ryżyi ugol” (A. Stavnitser, 1971), 5A cat. dif., rock.

Team of the Krasnodar Region Alpinism Federation. Team leader — Sokolov Alexander Alexandrovich. Team coach — Prilepa Evgeny Vladimirovich. Sochi

Ascent Details

1. Crimea
2. Foroskii Kant peak, 660 m.
3. Route: via the inner corner of the Southeast wall (A. Stavnitser, 1971)

Along the reddish inner corner of the south-eastern wall (Red corner), 5a *)

In the upper part, the route passes through a mossy inner corner, nicknamed "Red corner" by the first ascenders, located to the right of the western counterfort. That's why it got the corresponding name. From the road near the alpinist parking under the Forosky Kant, proceed up and left, first along the trail, and then across the talus to the start of the cleft under the Red corner (R0: 150 m, 20–30, no category). On the R1–R2 section — up the cleft, starting 3 m to the left of the memorial plaque. There are piton hooks, including old ones. The thread of the route is very logical. The belay station is on a small shelf. (R1–R2: 45 m, 80°, V+).