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Description

The first ascent of an unnamed peak with the goal of naming it "Столетие освобождения Болгарии" (Bulgaria's Liberation Centennial), via the "islands" from the north and the western ridge, approximately category 3B complexity. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk residents to Sofia Glacier, exiting under the northern slopes of peak Столетие освобождения Болгарии, located east of Sofia peak — 4 hours. The route passes through four rocky "islands" on the northern slope of the ridge connecting these two peaks. Crossing the glacier, we approach the I rocky "island". Before it lies a 5-meter-wide bergschrund, which is overcome by descending onto a snow bridge that leads to the rocks. The ascent begins with a 30-meter wall at 70–75°. Climbing is moderately difficult, with piton protection. After the I rocky island, a 30-meter snow-ice slope at 45–50° leads to the II rocky "island". It is climbed to the left, as the rocks on the right are covered in glaze ice. The rocks are moderately difficult, with piton protection. In some places, there is glaze ice that does not hinder progress. The length of the II rocky island is 70 meters. At the midpoint of the island is the I control cairn! Before exiting onto the snow, there are 20 meters of gentle rocks. Then, a 40-meter snow slope at 40–45° leads to the III rocky "island". The third rocky "island" is climbed straight up. Its length is 100 meters. The rocks are easy. After the III rocky "island", there is about 100 meters of a steep snow slope. In the lower part, the slope is 50°, and in the upper part, it is 55°. This snow slope leads under the IV rocky "island".

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Ascent Passport

I. ASCENT CLASS: Rock Climbing 2. ASCENT AREA: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, Sofiysky Ridge, KTMGV — 2.I. 3. PEAK: "Peak 3231" (Eastern) with a height of 3231 m above sea level, ascent from the "Stolichny" pass via the southeast ridge. 4. EXPECTED DIFFICULTY: Approximately 1B category of difficulty. 5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference between the base camp and the peak — 1911 meters; between the "Stolichny" pass and the peak — 181 meters; total route length from the "Stolichny" pass to the peak — 700 meters; average steepness — 35°; Length of section 1 category of difficulty — 580 meters, 2 category of difficulty — 90 meters, 3 category of difficulty — 30 m. 4, 5, 6 category of difficulty — none. 5. PITS DRIVEN: For belaying — rock pits 2 pcs; For artificial support points — none. 6. NUMBER OF CLIMBING HOURS: from the base camp to the peak — 4 h 45 min; from the "Stolichny" pass to the peak — 1 h 45 min; descent from the peak to the base camp — 3.5 h. 8. NUMBER OF NIGHTS SPENT: no nights were spent on the route, possible place for overnight stay — under the "Stolichny" pass (snow) 7. GROUP INFORMATION: Leader — Fursov Yuri Sergeevich — 1st sports category. Participants: Klochkov N.V., Kobtsev A.M., Belokurov I.L., Grishchenko O.G., Dybancova L.V. — all 2nd sports category. Team coach: Rogovsky Viktor Petrovich — 1st sports category, instructor-methodologist of II category of difficulty 2357.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. ASCENT CLASS: Rock
2. ASCENT REGION: Arkhyz, Stavropol Krai, KTMGV – 2.1.
3. PEAK: "Pik 3231" (Main), its height is 3231 m above sea level, ascent via the South-Eastern ridge through the peak "Pik 3231" (Eastern) from the "Stolichny" pass
4. ANTICIPATED DIFFICULTY: approximately 2A category of difficulty
5. CHARACTER OF THE ROUTE:

• Height difference between the base camp and the peak — 1911 m
• Between the "Stolichny" pass and the peak (Main) — 181 m
• Total route length from the pass to the peak — 845 m
• Average steepness — 40°–35°

REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit "Peak 3231" (Eastern), made by a group of climbers from the Stavropol region on May 4, 1980, in the Arkhyz mountain range (Western Caucasus), Stavropol region, west of the "Marukh" pass, Sofiysky ridge. The Arkhyz mountain area is located on the northern slopes of the Main Caucasian Range between the Kardyvach area (Krasnodar region) to the west and the "Marukh" pass to the east. The area is entirely within the Stavropol region and is situated at approximately 43° north latitude. North of the Main Caucasian Range lies the Sofiysky ridge, where this unnamed peak with an elevation of 3231 meters above sea level is located. The base camp was set up at an altitude of 1320 meters above sea level, 1.5 km from the "Glacier Farm" on a clearing. From the base camp:

• up along the Sofia River
• to the tributary from the Ak-Ayry glacier
• along which to the right up to the "Barańi lbov"
• then to the right into a wide couloir leading to the firn fields
• up the firn fields to the "Stolichny" pass (3 hours from the camp) The "Peak 3231" summit is a section of the Sofiysky ridge crest (its northeastern part) with two peaks of equal height, located close to each other (200-250 meters along the ridge). Further northwest, the ridge continues with the Mingi-Kyol-Bashi peak. And to the southeast - with the following peaks:

Description of the route to the summit of Unnamed "Peak 2330 m", "Peak SOCHI 2014".

Ascent Passport

1. Krasnodar Krai, Mzymta River gorge, Aibga ridge, section number in KMGV — 2.1
2. Peak 2330 m (Peak Sochi 2014), from the Southeast.
3. Proposed — 1B cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Character of the route: rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 300 m (by GPS) Length of the route: about 500 m. Length of sections: 3 cat. diff.: 30 m. Average steepness of the route: 25°.
6. Pitons left on the route: none.

Peak: Pik Sochi Route: E ridge from Sochi Pass Cat. complexity: 4A Group leader: Solod S. D. Mountain region: Western Caucasus Classification section: 2.1

Report

on the first ascent of the route to Pik Sochi via the eastern ridge from Sochi Pass

PASSPORT

1. Class: combined
2. Western Caucasus
3. Peak Сочи (Sochi) by couloir and D.gr.
4. Proposed 2A category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 483 m, length: 680 m average steepness of the route: 45°
6. Pitons hammered: 0, used protection elements: 3
7. Team's moving hours: 9 hours and 1 day
8. Leader: Ivanchenko Vladimir Alexandrovich, 1st sports category

Description

First ascent to v. Sofia via the western ridge, approximately category 3A. From the base camp, follow the left bank of the Sofia River (orographically) until the confluence with the Ak-Airy River. Then, move left and upwards along the left (orographically) bank of the Ak-Airy River to the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour of movement. The belt of "ram's foreheads" is bypassed from the right along a small stream. Then, move left across small meadows overgrown with rhododendron. After the meadows, move along the middle talus to the shoulder, beyond which lies the upper part of the Ak-Airy River valley. Here, there is a green, flat clearing with a stream of clear water nearby. A suitable location for the initial bivouac. From the first belt of "ram's foreheads" - 1 hour. From the initial bivouac, move upwards along the Ak-Airy River across talus to the Ak-Airy glacier. The glacier ends in an icefall, which is bypassed from the right across a rocky outcrop. Then, ascend a snowy slope with a steepness of 35-40° - 150-200 m upwards, exiting onto the glacier. From the initial bivouac to the glacier exit - 1 hour of movement.

DESCRIPTION

First ascent to v. Sofia via the eastern slope and ridge, approximately category 2A difficulty. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk climbers to the Sofiyskiy glacier, emerging under the eastern slopes of v. Sofia – 4 hours. The route initially follows a diagonal ledge, from right to left, passing from "sheep's foreheads" to "sheep's foreheads". The approach involves a steep snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45° – 250–300 m, followed by a wide bergschrund. The "sheep's foreheads" are traversed with piton protection – initially 10 m straight up, then 60 m to the left with a gradual gain in height. Climbing is difficult. The group of six spends 2 hours on this section. After reaching the diagonal ledge, move along it to the left towards a couloir descending from the ridge – 45–60 minutes. Movement is with simultaneous protection. The ledge is snow-covered. Before the couloir, turn right at a 90° angle and climb onto a degraded rocky ridge. The rocks are moderately difficult, with movement on a full rope and simultaneous protection. The ridge has many protrusions that can be used for belaying. The ascent along the ridge takes 1 hour, after which you emerge onto a snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45°. This slope is traversed:

• initially 60 m up and to the left,
• then 30 m up and to the right, emerging onto the eastern ridge – 20–30 minutes.