Peak: Pik Sochi Route: E ridge from Sochi Pass Cat. complexity: 4A Group leader: Solod S. D. Mountain region: Western Caucasus Classification section: 2.1

Report

on the first ascent of the route to Pik Sochi via the eastern ridge from Sochi Pass Dnepropetrovsk, 1992

The initial section from Sochi Pass is quite straightforward and is traversed in roped parties simultaneously. After 120 m, the ridge drops steeply. A control cairn is set up on the tower before the drop. Descent (section R1) via a system of sloping shelves with a steepness of 65–75°. Climbing is difficult.

The path along the ridge is blocked by a wall with a steepness of about 60° and some grassy sections. By traversing the wall up to the right in roped parties with alternate belays, and then 8 m up to the left, you approach an internal corner with a steepness of 70° (section R3). The last section is overcome by free climbing using placed protection for belays. It is convenient to use slings for top-rope belays.

200 m of not very difficult climbing leads to a 20 m high wall. The wall is passed to the left of a characteristic vertical gap. Here, the first crux is R7 — the steepness of the wall increases, and the wall turns into an internal corner with a slight overhang.

Then 120 m of moderate difficulty follows along the ridge. The ridge becomes sharp. The path is blocked by a rock with a 2 m high overhang. Behind the rock, there is a 60 m section along the sharp ridge of moderate difficulty, which is traversed with simultaneous belays and leads to a large platform with a snowpatch and large scree.

Via the scree to the right of the snowpatch, you approach a steep, crumbling wall. One rope length up the right, crumbling part of the wall. Organization of a belay station (2 pitons plus 2 chocks). Then slightly up to the right along a sloping shelf to the plateau. This is the second crux (sections R13–R14). Climbing is difficult. Due to the severe degradation of the rocks, organizing belays is extremely challenging.

The further part of the route presents no difficulty and is traversed in 20 minutes.

Descent from the summit is 150 m via the ascent route. Then down to the right — via a system of sloping shelves into a couloir with a snowpatch. Down the snowpatch and large scree to the trail leading to the camp.

Safety assessment of the route

The route on sections R13–R14 is hazardous due to the degradation of the rocks at high steepness. Simultaneous movement of two or more participants on these sections is not recommended.