Ascent Passport:

1. Technical climb category.
2. Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye.
3. Bzhedug, NW wall, direct line.
4. Assumed 5A category, First ascent.
5. Combined route.
6. Height difference: 700 m, route length: 950 m. Length of category complexity sections 5 — 140 m. Average steepness of the route — 50°. Average steepness of the wall — 70°.

76. bivouac on the Southwest Ridge (route 2B cat. difficulty, I. Daibog, P. Karyev, V. Nikolsky, August 28, 1939). The path from the Shkhelda alpine camp along the Shkhelda and Aksu glaciers to the snow plateau of the upper cirque of the left branch of the Aksu glacier with the initial bivouac on "Aristov's Overnight Stay" or on the Northeast Ridge of the Aksu peak is described in route 72. Up the plateau - to the left - exit under the saddle of the ridge - Bivouachny pass, located between the peaks of Bivouachny peak on the left and Fizkulturnik on the right. From the plateau, overcoming the bergschrund, straight up the steep snowy slope (avalanches!) ascent to the Bivouachny pass. Bivouac on the pass. From "Aristov's Overnight Stay" 6–7 hours. On the pass, turn left and exit under the rock wall of Bivouachny peak. Along the edge of ice and rocks, traverse 40–50 m under the wall to the left, exit to the rocky-snowy Western counterforce. Further, with a 5–8-meter traverse under the overhanging wall (pitons insurance!) move to the left side of the counterforce. Along the steep snow-covered, with ice sections, rocks of medium difficulty on the left side of the counterforce (pitons insurance!) 80–100-meter ascent to Bivouachny peak. From Bivouachny pass 1.5–2 hours. Descent via the ascent route. Duration of the route 2 days. It is necessary to have 2–3 ice screws and crampons for all participants. ("Baksan Valley", A. F. Naumov)

The Bukabashi peaks (“Tekshchiny zub’y” - “Mother-in-law’s teeth”) are located in the upper reaches of the left (orographic) stream of the Gidzhit River, 3-4 hours from the Baksan River. The Bukabashi peaks tower as rocky towers in a heavily destroyed rocky ridge, closing the upper reaches of the Gidzhit from the northeast.

ASCENT LOG

Bukabashi via the right part of the southern wall and the eastern ridge

(Report on the first ascent)

1. Technical category.
2. Central Caucasus, Almalykaya Ridge
3. Bukabashi via the right part of the southern wall and the eastern ridge 3500 m.
4. Supposed to be 4A category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 370 m, length — 504 m. The length of sections of the 5th category of complexity — 25 m. The length of 6A-6B sections — 0 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route — 55°, the entire route — 48°.
6. Total number of pitons left on the route — 0 pcs., including:

158. Viatau via the South Couloir and West Ridge (Category I-b route, Fig. 23, 33).

The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Green Hotel” is described in route 146. From the “Green Hotel”, ascend along the Adylsu gorge, then reach the Jankuat Glacier and move up along it, keeping to its left side. After 350–400 m, turn left and ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest point. Continue ascending along the moraine. Having passed the foot of the West Ridge of Viatau Peak, turn left, descend from the moraine, and ascend along the southern slopes of the West Ridge. Initially, the slope is grassy, then it becomes covered with fine and later coarse scree, leading to a wide snowy scree-filled couloir descending south from the West Ridge of Viatau Peak. Here, turn left and ascend along the snowy scree and simple rocks of the wide snowy couloir until you reach the West Ridge of the peak. From here:

• Continue to the right along the simple, destroyed, and partially snowy rocks of the ridge.
• In the upper section, keep to the right side (“live” rocks!).
• Ascend to the summit of Viatau. From the “Green Hotel”, the ascent takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The total duration of the route is 2 days.

Via-tau 2A category via the North ridge

Ascent from the Kod-avgan-aush glacier pass with descent via the ascent route or Category 1B route. Day 1. From the Dmantugan alpine camp, follow the trail along the Adylsu river to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa (Green Inn). Follow the lateral moraine to the Dmankuat glacier, crossing it in the lower part from right to left. Ascend to the right-bank moraine, which has pockets with flat areas and water. Overnight stay. Day 2. From the overnight stay, ascend via the grassy slope and talus to the Kod-avgan-aush glacier, where there are also flat areas on the talus for overnight stays. Via the clay talus, which may be snow-covered at the beginning of summer, ascend to the Kodavvaganaush Lozn pass. The actual pass remains on the left on the ridge. From the false pass, move right along the ridge. After two elevations, the ridge begins to rise. The rock character is slabby (peg страховка). Continue along the несложному ridge to the summit. Descent from the summit via the ascent route or via the Category 1B route. On the Irne-Ivle ridge, there are large cornices and overhanging rocks, making the ascent very challenging. The ridge ascent at this time is done on the left via the rocks (via подкам), where there are many loose stones.

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Report

On the first ascent of VIAtaou peak via the Northern slope of the Western ridge and the Western ridge, category 2A complexity (combined route) (tentative)

June 17, 2008

Report content:

• Ascent passport sheet 1 p. 1
• General photo of the peak sheet 1 p. 2
• Explanatory text sheet 2 p. 3
• Area map sheet 2 p. 4
• Route profile sheet 3 p. 5
• GPS data decoding sheet 3 p. 6

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Central Caucasus, NW spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Mt. Gumači.
3. Mt. Viatau 3820 m via the 3rd ridge, combined route.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B confirmed.
5. Height difference: 530 m, distance: 1060 m. Length of sections with III category of difficulty: 145 m, IV category of difficulty: 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 47°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 9/0, chocks — 2/0
7. Traveling hours — 5

2622

Traverse of Viatau from northeast to northwest, ~Category II route

From the "Dzhangutugan" alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Adyl-su River, then cross to its left bank via a bridge. Follow the trail along the left bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing. This is the initial bivouac site. The journey from the "Dzhangutugan" alpine camp takes approximately 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," access the Dzhankuat Glacier and move upwards along it, sticking to its right side. After 350–400 m, turn left and ascend to the right-bank moraine at its lowest point. Continue the ascent along the moraine. Having passed the foot of the Western ridge of Viatau peak, turn left, descend from the moraine, and ascend along the southern slopes of the Western ridge:

• initially along a grassy slope,
• then across small scree,
• followed by large scree,
• bypassing the base of the broad scree-filled Southern couloir (used by the Category I route),
• continue along the scree at the base of the southeastern horizontal ridge to the right of Viatau peak (refer to Fig. I and Photo I).