The Bukabashi peaks (“Tekshchiny zub’y” - “Mother-in-law’s teeth”) are located in the upper reaches of the left (orographic) stream of the Gidzhit River, 3-4 hours from the Baksan River. The Bukabashi peaks tower as rocky towers in a heavily destroyed rocky ridge, closing the upper reaches of the Gidzhit from the northeast.
- Bukabashi Main from the Northeast (K. Fatakhov's route, category III difficulty). From the Baksan River (group of 4 people), move upstream along the road on the right bank of the Gidzhit River, leading to the cheese factory. After 3.5-4 hours, turn off the road to the right and ascend along the right bank of the uppermost right tributary of Gidzhit, and higher - along its left bank to the spring. Here is a bivouac. About 1 hour from the road. From the bivouac, ascend to the right onto the destroyed ridge. Along the grassy ridge, then along its left side, reach the saddle of the main ridge to the right of the eastern gendarme of the Bukabashi peak. From the saddle, descend to the north and, bypassing the gendarme, reach the foot of the Eastern wall of the Northeast buttress of the Bukabashi peak, 7-8 m to the right of the cave at the foot of the Eastern wall. 2 hours from the bivouac. From the cave, 50-55 m up and to the right along steep rocks of medium difficulty in the couloir-angle (pitons!). Then up and to the left along rocky and grassy ledges, small walls, ending in a vertical slab (pitons, difficult!). Further up along simple and medium difficulty rocks to a platform (control cairn!). On the left side of the platform, 20-25 m up a vertical chimney (most difficult section, pitons!). Then along a faint 25-30-meter internal corner with ledges and small walls of medium difficulty, ascend to the right onto the shoulder of the Northeast buttress. On the shoulder's platform, a second control cairn. From the shoulder, along a gentle snow slope to the right of the rocky ridge, exit left onto the Eastern edge. Up along the edge. Bypass the gendarme on the left along heavily destroyed simple and medium difficulty 50-60-meter rocks. Behind the gendarme, ascend along a narrow destroyed couloir onto the saddle of the ridge. Along the ridge, reach the foot of the rocky tower and ascend along the chimney to the second tower of the Bukabashi peak. 6-8 hours from the talus under the Northeast wall. Descend along the ascent route or along the Eastern edge. Duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people: main rope - 2 × 30 m, auxiliary rope - 4 m, rock pitons, wide and long - 6-8, helmets - 4, rock hammers - 2, tent - 1. Possible bivouac locations - on the shoulder and edge. The route is purely rock, better to climb in climbing shoes. “Baksan Valley”, A. F. Naumov