Ak-Sai glacier

Report on the ascent of the Russian national team to Pik Svobodnoy Korei via the center of the north face via the Bezzubkin Route, category 6A.

RUSSIAN ALPINISM FEDERATION EAAA Championship (World Championship) in Alpinism 2019 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascent Report Russian Federation National Team - 3rd place Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the center of the North wall, Bezzubkin route. 6A category of complexity. Ascent Passport Region – Tian Shan, Kyrgyz range, 7.4. Peak – Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m via the center of the North wall, Bezzubkin 1969. 6A category of complexity. Route characteristic – combined.

Description of the route to the top of Svobodnaya Koreya via the North wall in Kyrgyz Ala-Too, category 6 complexity, climbed in 1984.

Passport Class of technical ascents Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Aksay gorge Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the centre of the North face 6B Elevation gain 1140 m, length 1250 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 938 m. Average slope of the route 73°, main part (3710–4690) — 78°, including 6 difficulty category 80–85° (243 m), 87–95° (225 m). Pitons driven: rock: 126 (25 used previously), bolt: 4 (new) + 4\* (previously driven),

Ascent route description to the summit of Svobodnaya Korea (4,740 m) via the center of the north wall, the difficulty category is sixth.

Ascent Log Ascent class: technical Ascent area: Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Ascent route: Svobodnaya Koreya peak, 4740 meters, via the Central North Face route by V. Bezzubkin Difficulty category: sixth Route characteristics: height difference 1100 meters, sections of 5th-6th difficulty category, 1150 meters, average steepness 70° Pitons used: for belaying: ice screws: 51 rock pitons: 76

Report on the ascent of the LOS SDSO *"Burevestnik"* team to Peak Svobodnaya Korea via the 6B category route in 1970.

TO THE ALPINISM FEDERATION OF THE USSR Report On the ascent of Pik Svobodnaya Korea via Route 6B cat. diff. The route leads directly to the summit ridge, 80 m from the cairn, in a beautiful straight line. The lower part of the route is steep ice, the middle section is a sheer rocky wall with ice formations, and the upper part is a very steep ice-rock ridge. The route took first place in the 1969 USSR championship and is classified as a 6B category difficulty route. III. Preparation for the Ascent The team first became familiar with the climbing conditions in the area in 1967. The harsh climate and technical difficulty of the routes required serious preparation. The general physical training program included:

Report on the ascent by the RSFSR team of a Category 6 route through the center of the north face of Pik Svobodnaya Korea in Tian Shan in 1985.

Ascent Passport Climbing category — technical Climbing region — Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too Range Peak Svobodnaya Korea, 4740 m, via the center of the North face, combined Complexity category — 6 Route characteristics: height difference — 620 m length of sections with 5B–6 complexity category — 305 m average steepness — 62.5° Pitons driven:

Ascent to the peak "Svobodnaya Korea" via the center of the north wall, route description and passage, technical difficulty, and achieved results.

Report On the ascent of Peak "Svobodnaya Koreya" via the center of the North Face, submitted for the USSR Climbing Championship in the 1969 season Team from the Krasnoyarsk City Committee for Physical Culture and Sports July 1969 Team Captain (V. Bezzubkin) ROUTES OF ASCENT: 1961 – route by L. Myshlyaev 1966 – route by B. Studenin 1969 – route by V. Bezzubkin

The first winter ascent of a 6A category route on the north face of Svobodnaya Korea peak in the Kyrgyz range of Tian Shan.

Ascent Passport Winter ascent category Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ak-Sai gorge Peak Svobodnaya Korea, via N wall, W ridge, 4740 m A. Kustovsky's route, 6A category; second ascent, first winter ascent Route height difference 640 m Total route length 924 m, including 625 m of wall section Length of 6th category sections 204 m Average route slope 63°

### Description of a challenging climb up the north wall of Svobodnaya Korea peak by a group of mountaineers, category 6B complexity.

KIEV CITY COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF PIK SVOBODNAYA KOREYA VIA THE NORTH FACE Kiev, 1969 www.alpfederation.ru List of participants 1961 "Burevestnik" led by L. Myshliaev 1966 Kazakhstan led by B. Studenin

Ascent of Pik Svobodnoy Korei via the north face in 1966, describing tactics and route progression.

КАЗАХСКИЙ РЕСПУБЛИКАНСКИЙ СОВЕТ ДСО «СПАРТАК» Отчёт о восхождении на пик Свободной Кореи по северной стене, заявленном на первенство СССР по альпинизму в классе технически сложных восхождений г. Алма-Ата 1966 г. Приятная метеосводка — на ближайшее время, начиная с 3 августа, ожидается хорошая устойчивая погода. День выхода штурмовой группы и группы наблюдателей был назначен на 3 августа 1966 г. Тактический план восхождения Следует отметить, что ни для одного члена нашей группы северная стена Свободной Кореи не была чем-то совершенно неизвестным. Борис Студенин, Геннадий Федотов и Геннадий Киреев участвовали в прохождении стены в 1961 году примерно по пути, незадолго до этого проложенному группой ЦС ДСО «Буревестник» под руководством Л. В. Мышляева. Остальные участники нашего сбора внимательно присматривались к вершине как к возможному объекту восхождений в 1963 и в 1965 г. во время пребывания в этом же районе.

First ascent via the right part of the left triangle of peak Svobodnaya Korea's C wall, 4777 m, "Krasnoyarsk" route, 6A cat. diff.

Ministry of Sports of the Krasnoyarsk Krai KRASNOYARSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION Russian Alpinism Championship 2016 Class: Snow and Ice Report On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team to Peak Svobodnoy Korei, 4777 m, via the right part of the left triangle of the N wall, route "Krasnoyarsky" First ascent, estimated 6A category of difficulty Krasnoyarsk 2016 Ascent Details