Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Region — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route — Sherkhan Yuzhny, 4255 m, North-Eastern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, average steepness 68°, length of sections:

• I — none,
• II — none,
• III — 15 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Class — technical.
2. Region — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatoo.
3. Traverse of peaks: Severny Sherkhan — Tsentralny — Yuzhny Sherkhan (about 4220 m) — Ondouuchoku (about 4350 m) with ascent to Severny Sherkhan via the Eastern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B, first ascent.
5. Characteristics: height difference — 650 m; average steepness — 55°; length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 325 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 28 pcs., ice — 3 pcs., bolted — none.
7. Departure date — August 1, return date — August 3, 1977.
8. Number of climbing hours — 19, including 13 hours for the ascent via the Eastern counterfort.
9. Number of nights: two on the moraine below the beginning of the counterfort.

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Tashtambek Gorge, Terskey-Alatoo ridge.
3. Tash-tuya Peak (Camel), height ~3900 m, Main Peak via South Peak, with ascent to South Peak via East ridge (first ascent)
4. Estimated difficulty category - 3B.
5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness ~45°
6. Pitons hammered for insurance: rock - 9, ice - none.
7. Departure and return date: July 24, 1977.

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Traverse Description

Peak Tashtambektor — Onduuchoku — Sherkhan South — Sherkhan Central — Sherkhan North with ascent to Peak Tashtambektor via the North wall, accomplished by the MOS DSO "ZENIT" team July 27, 1977 – July 31, 1977 (approximately 5B category of complexity)www.alpfederation.ru Photo 1. Profile-detailed wall of Peak Tashtambektor

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class. Technical 2. Ascent area, ridge. Tian Shan, Terskey Alatau 3. Summit, its height, route. Peak Tashtanbek 4710 m, via the northwest wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category. 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1070 m, length of sections Rн — R1 cat. sl. 1040 m, average steepness 76° 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial holds. rock — 157, 30

Climbing Passport

1. CLIMBING TYPE: technical.
2. CLIMBING AREA: Terskey-Alatau in the upper reaches of the Turgen-Aksu river.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, CLIMBING ROUTE: Tashtambektor, 4710 m, via the NW buttress of the 103 ridge.
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 1090 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 610 m, average steepness of the route 60° (excluding the horizontal ridge section).
6. Number of pitons used: | | for belay | for artificial footholds | for organized bivouacs | | :------------: | :---------: | :----------------------: | :---------------------: | | rock | - | 74 | 12 |

AREA — Tashtambektor gorge, Terskey-Alatau ridge. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ROUTE — Tashtambektor-bashi peak, 4710 m, via the right counter-ridge of the NE wall. ESTIMATED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — approximately 5B category of difficulty. CHARACTERISTICS — height difference — 1400 m, average steepness — 55° (counter-ridge). PROTECTION PITONS DRIVEN IN: rock — 103, ice — 46, belay pitons on ascent — 1 screw, rock — 14, ice — 8. Total of 172 pitons driven in. DEPARTURE AND RETURN DATES: Departure from base camp — August 20, 1977. Return to base camp — August 28, 1977. Number of man-hours: 66 hours, of which 52 hours were spent on the ascent to the summit. NUMBER OF NIGHTS SPENT, THEIR CHARACTERISTICS: 7 nights, of which 2 were spent sitting. The remaining nights were comfortable (after constructing them over 1–2 hours).

Report №104

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Tashtambektor-bashi (4710 m) via the right buttress of the North-East wall. Team composition:

• Team leader: IVANCHIN I.A. — Candidate Master of Sports
• Participants: RYABOV N.A. — 1st sports category, MAKHNOVICH L.A. — Candidate Master of Sports, STRIKICA N.I. — Candidate Master of Sports
• Coach: PENCHUK V.L. — Master of Sports of the USSR — 1977 —

Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the Tashtambektor gorge area

The object of the gathering of the Moscow Regional Council of the "Zenit" Sports Society in 1977 was the Terskey-Alatau ridge (Eastern Tien Shan). The Terskey-Alatau ridge is latitudinal and located south of Lake Issyk-Kul, within the territory of the Kirghiz SSR.

Climbing Passport

1. Class: technical ascent.
2. Area: central Tien Shan, Arashan valley.
3. Route: ascent to the eastern peak of Ak-Su wall (4650 m) via the southern counterfort from Stepkin Pass.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 45°, total length of difficult sections — 150 m.
5. Pitons driven: rock — 13, ice — 1.
6. Time spent on the route: 13 hours.
7. Characteristics of bivouacs: no bivouacs on the route.