Tsey — Materials — SummitX

Route Description: ц. баст. С стены

SSummitMate

9 months ago

route planning mixed climbing classic alpinism mountaineering trip report expedition

The ascent of the "Alibek" team to the summit of Chanchaqi-Khokh via the northern wall via Popov's route of 6B category of complexity during the 1970 USSR Climbing Championship.

Report on the Ascent by the "Alibek" Team of CS SDSO "Burevestnik" to Chan chakhi–Khokh via the North Face along the Central Bastion (Popov's Route), Category 6B, at the USSR Alpine Championship I. Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of Chan chakhi–Khokh The peak Chan chakhi–Khokh, chosen by the "Alibek" team for participation in the USSR Alpine Championship, is located in the well-known alpinist area of the Eastern Caucasus — Tsey. The peak is situated near the extremity of the Main Caucasian Ridge. Its height is 4642 meters above sea level. From a sporting perspective, its north face is of interest, with several routes plotted, not below category 5B. In 1968, a group of climbers from Kiev led by Popov ascended via the Central Bastion on the north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh, a route classified as Category 6B. Besides the first ascensionists, this route was followed only by a group led by Kinskiy from al "Elbrus" in 1969. Characteristics of the Climbing Conditions The height difference of the route is approximately 1000 m, with an average steepness of 70–80°. The entire route is divided into four parts — four bastions — by short ice sections. Camping in tents is only possible on steep snowy ridges separating the bastions. The solidity of the rocks decreases from the base to the summit; the upper part of the wall is heavily destroyed, and therefore the wall is characterized by frequent rockfalls, the intensity of which decreases only by the end of July — beginning of August. The Central Bastion, compared to other sections of the wall, is less "exposed" to rockfalls. The north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh is lit by the sun only in the morning, and the edge of the 4th bastion, projecting northwest, is almost never lit.

Route Description: ц. баст. С стены

SSummitMate

9 months ago

objective hazards mixed climbing bivouacs mountaineering trip report expedition

ц. баст. С стены

Report on the ascent of the Taganrog and Rostov SDS "Trud" group to the summit of Chanchaхи, 6B category of complexity, led by Ruzhevsky V.V. in 1970.

REPORT on the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi of 6B category complexity by the group from the Taganrog and Rostov DSO "TRUD" led by Ruzhevsky V.V. Taganrog, 1970 Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route The summit of Chanchaqi is located in the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus between the Tsey-Tbilisi pass and the summit of Mamison-Khokh. The height of the summit is 4420 meters above sea level. Among the classified routes to the summit of Chanchaqi, the simplest path is from the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, category 4B complexity. The most interesting from an alpinist's point of view is the north face. Here, there are routes of 5B and 6B category complexity. The 6B category complexity route was first ascended in 1968 by a group led by Popov, which received silver medals at the 1968 USSR championship for this ascent. In the 1970 season, this route was ascended by a group from the "Alibek" alpine camp, also participating in the USSR championship, and by a group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD". Ascent conditions In the second half of August, the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus is characterized by unstable weather. Typically, the first half of the day is sunny, which then changes abruptly, and by the second half of the day, precipitation often occurs. A peculiarity of Chanchaqi's microclimate is the constant wind, likely caused by the movement of warm air masses from the low-lying areas of Georgia to the higher and colder areas of North Ossetia. All the above is reflected in the relief of this mountain. Sharp temperature changes, wind erosion, and frequent precipitation result in formed ice, steep ice slopes, and islands on the wall, destroyed rocks, and its main hazard - a multitude of "live" stones.