Climbing passport for the ascent to the peak Baychechekey via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall, category 5A difficulty, with route description and technical details.
Ascent Passport Tian Shan, Kyrgyzsky Ridge, Ak-Sai gorge Pk. Baychechekhey, 4515 m, route via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall 5A cat. dif. Rock Route height difference: 760 m. Route length: 1430 m. Section lengths: V cat. dif. — 135 m. VI cat. dif. — 6 m.
Ascent to the summit of Baiychechek (4515 m) via the ice groove of the West wall in Kyrgyz Ala-Too, complexity category 5A.
Ascent Passport I. Ascent Class: Technical. Ascent Region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. V. Baychechekei, 4515 m, via the ice gully of the Western wall, ice route, winter ascent. Presumed difficulty category — originally 5A. Route characteristics: height difference — wall section — 320 m, total — 600 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — 225 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65° Pitons hammered: ice screws — 48, artificial elements — 5
Description of the first ascent of the West Face of Peak Baychechekey (4515 m) in the Central Tian Shan with a complexity category of 5A, climbed during the winter period in alpine style.
Ascent Passport Region — Central Tien-Shan. Kyrgyz Range. Peak — Baychechekhey, 4515 m, via the left part of the West Face. Proposed — 5A cat. diff. first ascent. Route character — rock climbing Route Characteristics height difference of the route — 500 m. height difference of the wall part of the route — 260 m. route length — 850 m. length of the wall part of the route — 290 m. average steepness of the route — 41°. average steepness of the wall part — 76°. length of sections with 6 cat. diff. — 90 m, 5 cat. diff. — 155 m.
Report on the first ascent of the route of 5A category of difficulty to the peak Korona 1st tower via the northern wall through the ice river.
Ascent report for the first ascent of the route to Pik Korona 1st Tower via the north face (ice gully). Ascent Details Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa valley. Pik Korona 1st Tower, 4810 m, via the ice gully on the north face. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 800 m. Route length: 1050 m. Section lengths: I — 400 m, II — 100 m, III — 350 m, IV — 100 m, V — 100 m, Average slope: main part of the route — 55° Total route — 45°
Report on the passage of a category 3B route to Peak Korona (3rd) 4700 m via the western glacier in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range of Tian Shan.
p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m Report Of the joint team of Tomsk, Kemerovo regions and St. Petersburg on the ascent to p. Korona (3rd) 4700 m via the western glacier "3B", (sl) Participants: Temerev I.M., Suzdaltsev E.E., Kashevnil A.A. I. Ascent Details | № | 1. General Information | | | :----- | :-------------------------------------------------- | :--------------------------------------------------------------------- |
First ascent description of the Korona peak (4810 m) in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range via the ice wall in winter 1995.
I. Climbing category — technical Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).
Description of the route to the summit of Korona (I) via the western counterfort with a detailed analysis of the sections and recommendations on belay and equipment.
Оyatsa mapuryatapo sections Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying: through ice screws Movement: on a double rope with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фифи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.
A description of a combined route to Ba'chechek peak in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range with details on passing characteristic sections.
Brief explanation of the table Peak Ba'checheke is located in the Kyrgyz ridge, Ak-Sai horseshoe, between the peaks Uchitel and Skryabin. The route is combined: the path to the summit goes through 103 counter-force, i.e., along the left (in the direction of travel) side of the rocky bastion. When the bastion ends, the counter-force of the bastion turns into the pre-summit ridge. The entire route can be conditionally divided into the following characteristic sections: Section 1 Section 2 Section 3 | Section | 0-1 | — Couloir 5 |
Report on the first ascent of route 2A category of complexity to the peak Uchitel (4550 m) via the eastern ridge in the Kyrgyz Ala-Too range.
Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Uchitel via the Eastern Ridge. Climbing Passport Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa gorge. Peak Uchitel 4550 m. Presumed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent. Route character — ridge. Route height difference — 700 m. Route length — 1700 m. Section lengths: I — 1550 m, II — 150 m, Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°. Pitons left on the route: total — 0;
Description of the ascent route to Peak Izycskatels (4400 m) via the northwest wall, category 3B difficulty level.
Ascent category — snow and ice Kyrgyz Ala-Too Peak Izyskatel (4400 m) via the center of the northwest face Proposed category difficulty — 3B Height difference — 300 m Route length — 400 m. Average steepness — 50° Pitons driven — 31/0 (ice screws) Climbing hours — 4.5 Base camp — hut near Koronsky glacier Rodikov A.P. — Candidate Master of Sports