Report

On the ascent of the Karachay-Cherkess Republic team to the summit of Belalakaya Main 3861 m.

via the Eastern ridge through the chimney. 4B cat. diff. (variant) Presumably IV B cat. diff.

Semenov M. A. – CMS (Candidate for Master of Sports) team leader Bogdanova M. V. – 2nd sports category experience Alpclub – Mountain Madness

2. Caucasus

2.2 From Marukh pass to Nakhar pass.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich. CMS. Coach – Shipilov V. A. Address: 144001, Elektrostal, Oktyabrskaya st., 8, apt. 117. Phone +7 (906) 724–94–53. Email [email protected]

2. Bogdanova Maria Vladimirovna, 2nd sports category experience, Moscow Coach – Semenov M. A.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Dombay region, section 2.2 of the route classifier for mountain peaks.
2. Belalakaya Main 3861 m. Via the Eastern ridge starting through the chimney.
3. 4B cat. diff.
4. Rock route.
5. Height difference: 661 m. Route length: 860 m. Average slope: 70°.
6. Hooks left on the route: 0
7. Team's total climbing time: 11 h 50 min, 1 day.
8. Descent from the summit via the descent couloir.
9. Team leader: Semenov Mikhail Alexandrovich, CMS, coach Shipilov V. A. Participant: Bogdanova Maria Vladimirovna, 2nd sports category experience.
10. Start of the route: Day 1: 4:30–16:20, 14 h. July 29, 2020. Summit ascent: 16:20, July 29, 2020.
11. Alpclub "Mountain Madness"
12. Responsible for the report Semenov M. A. [email protected]

Description of the ascent area

The summit of Belalakaya Main 3861 m is located on a spur from the Main Caucasian ridge and is an inner peak. One of the iconic symbols of the Dombay region, a mountain that almost everyone who visits this area dreams of climbing.

Approach description

From Dombay settlement along the trail on the right side of the Amanauz river to the forest boundary. Then along the trail along the stream (in the first half of summer along a long snowfield) ascent to the right-up towards the Belalakay couloir. Before reaching the start of the couloir, turn left-up along the trail through several rock walls (with metal brackets). Exit to the Bear's bivouac. From Dombay settlement – 3 h.

Then along the trail to the right-up to the Middle-Sofrujinskye bivouac – 1 h. Bivouac. From the bivouac up along the grassy and talus slopes exit to the Upper-Sofrujinskye bivouac, 2.5–3 h. (The approach description is taken from the book by Shipilov V. A. "Peaks of Dombay").

Attention! The recommended bivouac location in the classic version of the route. This is either the Gubanovskie bivouac or the bivouac near the white stone. Both of these bivouacs are located directly under the start of the Eastern ridge.

The most logical bivouac location for the variant route via the Eastern ridge through the chimney is the bivouac on the Upper-Sofrujinskye (or colloquially "Dog's bivouac"). From these bivouacs, the start of the route is clearly visible – the entire chimney, as well as the entire path to the exit to the Eastern ridge – the location of the first control point according to the classic route. Further from this point, the route completely coincides with the description of the route via the Eastern ridge 4B.

Route descriptions on the diagram:

• Belalakaya 3861 m
• 3A – via the South ridge, Prokudaev G. – 1936
• 5A – via the SE lap, Semenov M. – 2018
• 4B – via the E ridge through the chimney, var. Semenov M. – 2020
• 4B – via the E ridge, Volzhin – 1950
• 4B – via the NE wall, Grakovich V. – 1976
• 3B – from the north, Prokudaev G. – 1934
• Upper Sofrujinskye (bivouac)

Different classifiers contain different information about the years of first ascents, and the information about the first ascenders also varies.

Route 3A – I believe it cannot be attributed to Andreas Fischer in any way. I found Andreas' report on his first officially registered ascent of Belalakaya in 1904 – from the description, it is obvious that it is not the modern 3A via the South ridge. There is also evidence of this in the report by Vonmek in the journal of the Russian Mountain Society for 1904.

For the other lines, it's even harder to establish the truth:

• Eastern ridge:

  • In one source – 1950 – Volzhin
  • In another – 1951 – Galustov I.
  • Which one is correct? I don't know. It's also unclear from which sources to draw this information.

• North-Eastern wall:

  • In the 2020 classifier, it is written: 1962 – Yushin
  • From conversations with Vyacheslav Alexandrovich Shipilov, it is reliably known.
  • There is a mention of Yushin on the Eastern wall in the old classifier.
  • I have never seen a description by Shipilov V. A.

The Eastern wall is likely a yet unclimbed line between my 5A and my variant ascent to 4B through the chimney. In the upper part, the line will lead to the classic 4B via the Eastern ridge.

Also, from Shipilov's stories, it is known that in 1976 – before making his legendary ascent in Uzunkol on Dallar.

Grakovich, Ruzhevsky, and Lowe approached them for rescue services, asked about the line on the NE wall. At that time, they had no reports on this line. After completing the ascent, the guys submitted a report – the route is colloquially known as the "American" route. The route description is very detailed in Shipilov's book – "Peaks of Dombay". I completed the route solo on August 6, 2018 – a good logical route, from the control point, a note from August 10, 1999 was found – but the rest of the note was illegible.

Over time, the route disappeared from the FSR (Federation of Sport Ropeways) classifier, but it was later restored.

I don't have other sources – I consider it reasonable to attribute the route to Grakovich V. – 1976.

Variant start of the 4B route – Eastern ridge. Through the chimney.

Tactics of the team's ascent

July 20, 2020 – Ascended to the Upper-Sofrujinskye bivouac. July 21, 2020 – Attempted to climb Sofruju peak – had to return due to rain. The rain continued throughout the day. July 22, 2020 – Explored the path of a new possible exit to the Eastern ridge – climbed the chimney, set up stations in the chimney. July 23, 2020 – Completed the ascent to the summit of Belalakaya via the Eastern ridge starting through the chimney, descended to the original bivouac. July 24, 2020 – Descent to Dombay plain (Dombay settlement).

UIAA Route Diagram

2020 Variant Semenov – Bogdanova

Technical description

Route to the summit of Belalakaya Main

Via the Eastern ridge through the chimney

The entrance to the chimney starts from the right side along simple, not steep walls. The day before the ascent, we set up a reliable bolted station on a convenient ledge. This location is the start of the route.

R0–R1. Station R0 on a convenient ledge. Direction of movement: up, left to enter the chimney. At the beginning, climbing the chimney occurs mainly along the right wall. Exit to the overhanging part of the chimney, at the top, a wedged stone – a cork is visible. Here is a small convenient ledge with two bolts for a possible intermediate station inside the chimney, approximately 30 m from station R0. 30 m, 65–75°, 3–4.

Further climbing becomes more complicated, similar to Crimean climbing. The chimney walls are almost smooth, without much relief – climbing under the cork occurs mainly in a stem (feet on one wall of the chimney, back on the other). Exit to the top of the cork and further – to the base of a huge internal corner – a fairly large ledge, a convenient station on two bolts. One of the bolts has a control point № 0 attached. Exactly 60 m from the start of the route. 30 m, 80–90°, 4–5.

R1–R2. From the station, it is necessary to traverse 7–10 m along the couloir to the right-up to ledges leading to the right edge of the couloir wall (wide internal corner). Exit to the right edge of the couloir. Convenient station. 60 m, 65–75°, 3–4.

R2–R3. Then move along the terrain to the right-up in the direction of the wide internal corner (couloir). Easy climbing. Convenient station. 60 m, 60–65°, 3.

R3–R4. Move along the terrain of the internal corner up. Convenient station. 60 m, 65–80°, 3–4.

R4–R5. Through the right wall of the wide internal corner in the direction of the White belt, exit to the Eastern ridge – the intersection point with the classic path of the 4B route via the Eastern ridge. Convenient station. The entire further ascent line completely coincides with the classic route. 60 m, 70–80°, 4.

There is a very good description of the further path in Shipilov V. A.'s book "Peaks of Dombay".

The descent from the summit was carried out along the classic descent route.

Ascent leader: Semenov M. A. Participants: Bogdanova M. V. Coaches: Shipilov V. A.

View from the Upper-Sofrujinskye bivouac to the start of the variant route through the chimney.

Photo of the first rope of the route. Photo of the passage of the second section R0–R1.

View from station R1 up to the chimney with a cork.

Photo of the passage of section R1–R2 – Bogdanova M. V.'s work.

Note (left with CP): July 26, 2018 M-T 4B not delal'naya Orlov A. durance A Sonina S. A. Moscow 122 Sonata ip us Nevinnincona rup Skripnik

Note (right with CP): July 23, 2010, 12:20. The team Semenov M. A. (Teberda-Elektrostal), Bogdanova M. V. (Moscow) are making an ascent to Belalakaya peak via the 4B route. From the Eastern ridge, also via their own variant. Start from the Dog's bivouac through the chimney with corks. After the chimney, set up CP 0. Did not find CP 1, did not find CP 2 either. Apparently, the turret from 2017 is destroyed. S. Epanchin slipped, but apparently, it's incorrect. Found a CP without a name, this is CP 3. Note from July 22, 2018 was retrieved. Query-Avronov – Semenov, Moscow. Weather is good. Moving further. Good luck to all climbers.

Control Point № 0

Set up specifically for the variant route via the Eastern ridge through the chimney.

Location of the exit to the Eastern ridge, further route coincides with the classic 4B via the Eastern ridge.

View of the Eastern ridge from the junction point of the route lines.

Second's work on the section between CP 1 and CP 2 on the route

Second's work on the section between CP 1 and CP 2 on the route.

Second's work on the section between CP 2 and CP 3 on the route.

Photo taken from CP 3 – second's work.

Photo of the summit of Belalakaya 3861 m.

Note from the summit: July 23, 2020, 16:20. The team of climbers: Semenov M. A. (Teberda, [illegible]), Bogdanova M. V. (Moscow) completed the ascent to the summit of Belalakaya via the 4B route. From the summit [illegible] July 12, 2020 (Semenov: Suvorov). Weather [illegible]. But these [illegible] SAT [illegible]. [Illegible] But these supports of new peaks.

Note (above the photo): 72 July 2010 Suvorov 4B. In Belen po [illegible] 130 [illegible] Joana Acem

Photo of the participants on the summit.