Main peak of Amanauz via SW wall 3757 m

First ascent (approximately category 5B)

Group members:

1. Kuzmuk V.V. - team leader, 1st sports category
2. Shakin S.A. - participant, Master of Sports
3. Bychek A.M. - participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
4. Verba A.A. - participant, Candidate for Master of Sports
5. Mudrenok V.N. - participant, 1st sports category The route was climbed by the team from the "Dombay" alpine camp. Coach - Magomedov Kh.K.

Ascent Record,

done in the Ukrainian Council Championship of the “Avangard” Sports Society in mountaineering 1974.

1. Ascent category — technically challenging ascents.
2. Ascent region — Western Caucasus.
3. Ascent route — Mt. Amanauz (Main peak) 3757 m via S.-W. buttress of the southern wall.
4. Ascent details: total altitude gain — 700 m; altitude gain on very difficult sections — 520 m; average slope of the route — 65°; slope of very difficult sections — 85°;

REPORT

On the ascent of Mt. AMANAUZ Main via the South face, category 5B - (control and test route by B. Romanov), made by instructors at "Alibek" alpine camp Shklyaev E.V. and Smaglyukov S.E. on August 3-4, 1977.

Brief explanations for the table

The start of the route is easily recognizable. It is located at the intersection of a vertical line dropped from the "room" corner with the snow adjacent to the wall. Here, a monolithic outer corner goes up. Further movement is completely unambiguous and logical. The first control point is located in the "room" corner on an inclined shelf. The overhanging walls were bypassed on the left side, where their extent is minimal. The average steepness of sections R1-R4 approaches 78 °. Due to the monolithic and relief nature of the rocks, the first climber was able to ascend with a backpack. The backpacks were pulled up only on section 4. At the end of section 5, there is a good bivouac site. Sections 6, 8, 9-11 are significantly more destroyed; there are large stones lying separately. The second control point is located at the bivouac (section 8). The path from the bivouac goes around the bifurcation of the South ridge to the right through the "black" wall, leading to its shoulder. Further, the path goes along the ridge. The average steepness of the route is about 60 °. In general, the route can be divided into two parts: R1-R4 and R5-R11. The first part is significantly more complex and steeper, and its passage can be facilitated by preliminary processing of the wall's beginning.

REPORT

on the ascent to v. Glavny Amanauz from the north, via the spur through the firn ridge, first ascent from July 15–17, 1972

I. Group Composition

Gubanov Yu.D. — CMS, senior instructor KSP Dombay region, b/p, DSO "Spartak" "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Khamsov A.P. — 1st category, junior instructor a/l "Alibek", b/p, DOO "Burvestnik", Dombay settlement. Interaction group — group of Severo-Donetsk gatherings, route to v. Glavny Amanauz from Amanauz pass 3B category.

II. Alpinist-Geographical Characteristics of the Glavny Amanauz Peak Area

v. Gl. Amanauz (3755 m) is located in the area of the Main ridge, surrounding the cirque of the East Amanauz glacier and has a long ridge, stretched approximately from west to east (see attached map). Three classified routes lead directly to v. Gl. Amanauz:

• from Amanauz pass, along the western ridge 3B category

Fig. 27

1. Ascent to the summit of Glavny Amanauz (3757 m) from the Amanauzsky Pass — category 3b difficulty (Fig. 27)

From Dombayskaya Polyana across the bridge over the Alibek River and along the trail to the crossing over the Amanauz River. Crossing to the right bank, then:

• along the moraine,
• through the "barany lby" to the Amanauzsky Glacier,
• along the glacier to the terminal moraine below the West Amanauz Glacier. From Dombayskaya Polyana 3–4 hours. Further (in rope teams!), ascent to the Amanauzsky Pass between the peaks Glavny Amanauz and Sofruju. Ascent on the right side of the heavily crevassed glacier. In the upper part, under the slopes of Zub Sofruju peak, one should move to the middle of the glacier due to possible firn avalanches from the slopes of Zub Sofruju. The exit to the pass is via a bergschrund on a steep (50°) snowy slope — 120 m (belaying!), slightly to the left of a rock outcrop. There is a bivouac site on the pass. From Dombayskaya Polyana 8–9 hours. From the pass, along the несложным скалам (easy rocks) of the western ridge to the gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right and continue along the ridge to the red gendarme.

Alibekskiy Peak

Ascent Passport

3. Ascent route with indication of peaks: ascent via Western counterfort (approximately 4A category of difficulty) 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness 55–60° 5. Pitons hammered in: rock — 22 pcs. ice — none bolt — none

ASCENT PASS

1. Category of technical ascents.
2. Dombay area, North-West Caucasus.
3. Alibekskiy peak, ~3450 m, from the Belalakayskiy glacier along the edge or along the ridge from Kap peak.
4. Cat. diff. – 1A.
5. The nature of the route is combined, the height difference from the glacier is 500 m, in the second half of summer there are ice sections in the upper part of the route.
6. Insurance – without the use of hooks.
7. Number of travel hours from the bivouac on the moraine: ascent 4–5 hours, descent – 2 hours.
8. Group is training: | Participant | Rank |

Climbing Passport

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Main Caucasus Range from Marukh pass to Nakhara pass (Western Caucasus)
3. Peak, its height, Alibek-Bashi peak (3782 m). Ascent route via the North face
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain — 420 m
   • Average steepness — 60°
6. Pitons hammered — 6 rock pitons
7. Number of climbing hours — 8–9 hours

Alibek-bashi

Fig. 15

Ascent to the summit of Alibek-bashi (3782 m) - by difficulty category (Fig. 15)

From Dombayskaya polyana along the trail to Alibeksky glacier to the rocks of Razdelny peak — bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana 3.5–4 hours. From the bivouac (in rope teams!) left-upwards, bypassing crevasses of the icefall and exit to the gentle part of the glacier. Depending on the state of the glacier, further ascent to the rocky spur of the Ertzog peak and left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi or in the middle of the glacier upwards, then left to the bergschrund under the slopes of Alibek-bashi. Then through the bergschrund and ascent

Severodonetsk Sports Club "Khimik"

UkrSSR Alpine Championship

Report

On the first ascent of the Aksaut traverse with ascent via the East ridge to the Second Northern Aksaut and further traverse to the Eastern Aksaut (approximately route 5B cat. diff.) July 14 – July 20, 1972  The ascent is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the USSR formation Severodonetsk – 1972 

List of assault group participants