#446(2)

Ascent Passport

Class of technical ascents.
2.10. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Chekhy-Chai gorge.
Erydag, 3925 m, point R31–R32, Mikhailov's route 1982 along the right part of NW wall, rocky.
6A category of complexity, 5th ascent.
Route characteristics: height difference - 900 m, route length - 1300 m, wall section height difference - 880 m, wall section length - 1130 m, average steepness of the wall section - 75 °, length of sections with I category of complexity - 150 m, II - 50 m, III - 85 m, IV - 135 m, V - 785 m, VI - 95 m; passed using ITC - 92 m, including A1 - 7 m, A2 - 75 m, A3 - 10 m.
Used: 147/60 chocks, 100/4 rock pitons, 12/5 pitons on drilled holes. Of these - 3 previously hammered pitons were used (not removed), 2 rock pitons were left, 10 previously hammered pitons on drilled holes were used, 2 were hammered.
Team's travel hours - 42.5, including 11.5 hours of preliminary evening preparation, 5 travel days.
Overnights: 1st - in the assault camp (2800 m) after preliminary preparation, 2nd (3320 m) - two sitting, one in a hammock, 3rd (3500 m) - three semi-reclining on a ledge, 4th (3700 m) - on a scree ledge, two sitting, one in a hammock.
Participants: team leader - Sogokon Vladimir Alexandrovich, CMS; participants - Slobodenyuk Yuri Yuryevich, CMS; Goryaev Anatoly Erdnigorayevich, 1st sports category.
Coach: Murtazaliev Ziyabudin Murtazalievich.
Preliminary preparation on September 15, 1998. Departure on the route on September 16, 1998. Summit on September 19, 1998. Return on September 19, 1998.
Organization: Dagestan Republican Rescue Service of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of Russia.

Makhachkala - 1998

Tactical Actions of the Team

On the first day, the duo Sogokon V.A. and Slobodenyuk Yu.Yu. went out to prepare the route. Sogokon started working on the first rope, a 40-meter chimney. After working 40 m, they changed the lead. The second rope - passing along an inclined ledge - was first worked by Slobodenyuk. After the second rope, they decided to rappel down.

The next day, the trio Sogokon - Goryaev - Slobodenyuk left the base camp at 6:00. At 8:00, the duo Goryaev - Sogokon started working. Goryaev worked first. The movement went along an 80-meter inner corner, then an exit to a small 30-meter wall with a steepness of 85 °. Next was a 40-meter inner corner with a steepness of 85-90 °. Monolithic smooth walls, extremely difficult climbing.

The group, as planned, reached the first overnight location (1st control point). Slobodenyuk prepared for the night, and the duo Goryaev - Sogokon continued preparation.

The first rope to the right of the overhang was worked by Goryaev, approaching the wall with the overhang.
Then Sogokon started working first.
Using крюконоги, he passed the overhanging section - the entrance to a 30-meter inner corner, and exited to a ledge.

After finishing the preparation, the duo descended to the overnight location, where Slobodenyuk had hung a hammock and cleared a ledge for two.

September 17, 1998. The next day, the group, having ascended via the fixed ropes, continued working. Goryaev worked first, with Sogokon on belay.

September 18, 1998. The next day, after ascending via the fixed ropes, the duo Sogokon - Goryaev started working. Sogokon worked first. After the third rope of the key section, the route passed through broken rocks, and on the fourth rope, the group exited to a ledge. They decided to spend the night without further preparation. Strong gusty wind, fog, visibility 5 m.

September 19, 1998. In the morning, the weather improved, and the duo Sogokon - Goryaev started working. Sogokon worked first. Climbing was extremely difficult due to the impossibility of hammering anything. Psychological climbing, with the entire wall opening up below, steepness 85 °. Then they exited to a ledge. Goryaev started working first, with Slobodenyuk on belay. Along the ledge to the right and up, under the wall, which led to the pre-summit scree. 150 m along the scree to the summit cairn.

The system of rope team work was practiced according to previous ascents. The first climber was belayed on a doubled rope, and subsequent climbers were obligatorily top-rope belayed. The ropes met UIAA requirements.

Two overnight stays were planned, the third was forced due to strong wind and fog. There were no falls or injuries. Lead changes were made thoughtfully. The team completed the route with a reserve of moral and physical strength. All equipment was used:

pitons;
friends;
hexes;
stoppers;
rocks.

Problems on the wall:

lack of water until the middle of the route;
snowfields and streams are found in the upper part;
intense heat after 14:00.

An observer was stationed at the bottom, who could contact the rescue team at any time.

Route Description

The start of the route (3100 m) is on a ledge of "ram's foreheads" under the "cold corner" - a small ledge, from which it goes up along an inner corner (R1–R2). Climbing becomes more difficult due to:

a large amount of moss;
smooth and wet walls of the corner.

Then to the right along the ledge - be careful! Loose rocks! Along an inclined chimney under a system of inner corners (R2–R3). Through a system of corners - transitioning from one corner to another. Climbing is extremely difficult:

corners are wet;
a lot of moss;
corners are "locked" by a steep wall.

Movement to the right, beyond the outer corner, along the wall, exits under a 40-meter inner corner (R3–R7). Monolithic smooth walls. Through the inner corner - exit under an inclined ledge and along it - exit under a cornice. First overnight stay. On the left, on a piton on a drilled hole, is the 1st control point (R7–R8).

From the overnight stay, to the right and up, to a wall with a hanging crack (R8–R9). Through the crack - entrance to an inner corner and along it - exit to a ledge (R9–R11). Then up along "ram's foreheads" into an inner corner (R11–R12), snow, water. Along a scree gully, exit to a large scree ledge (R12–R13) under the wall. Along this wall to the upper piton on a drilled hole, and using a pendulum, move from right to left into a chimney. Further along the walls with "ram's foreheads" up, under the base of a 150-meter chimney. Attention! Loose rocks! Difficult climbing (R13–R17). Overnight stays.

From the overnight stays, to the left and right, into an inner corner. The first 80 m of the corner are complicated by two "locks", mainly using large chocks, hammering pitons is difficult (R17–R19). Three pitons on drilled holes were hammered. The crack itself is wet, and in some areas, it is overgrown with moss. Station R15 is hanging.

Then comes the most difficult section of the key - a "locking" cornice. Bypass the cornice from the left (R19–R21). The roof of the cornice is heavily destroyed and wet. At station R18 - two pitons on drilled holes.

Further along the corner and gully to the right and up (R21–R22). Attention! Sections are prone to rockfall. Many loose rocks. Movement is very cautious. After moving along the wall and the right side of the inner corner - exit into a scree gully. Along the gully, to the left and up, through a small inner corner - exit to a large scree ledge, station R21 (R22–R27).

From the station, to the left along the wall, steep rocks, rich relief for climbing, but pitons and chocks do not go in. Psychological climbing. The entire wall opens up below. Water flows from the left, rocks are wet, with areas of ice. Exit:

into a scree gully;
to the right along an inclined chimney, exit to a ledge (R27–R32).

The ledge is covered with snow, along it - exit under a wall, on which there is a piton with a quickdraw on the right. The upper part of the wall is heavily destroyed. Climb very carefully. Further: