Minutes

of the analysis of the first ascent via the left part of the West wall of v. Yarydag Glavnaya, made by the group of the alpinist club "Donbass", consisting of:

1. Ruchka V.Ya. — leader
1. Sedristy S.I. — member
1. Lapchenko V.F. — member
1. Reshetnyak V.A. — member

November 4–6, 1980.

Attendees:

B.G. Sivtsov — Master of Sports of the USSR, supervisor, head of the alpinist club "Donbass" gathering.
A.T. Siryachenko — Master of Sports of the USSR, head of the rescue team.

Climbing participants, gathering participants.

Heard: Ruchka V.Ya. — leader.

The first ascent was planned back in July 1980, when the alpinist club "Donbass" gathering was held under Yarydag. The first ascent was preceded by ascents made in July via route 5B cat. diff. in the group of Polyakov M.S. on v. Yarydag Glavnaya (Nevzmetdinov's route), and the first ascent of approximately 5B cat. diff. The route of the intended first ascent was observed in July and November 2–3, 1980, by the group members to determine its difficulty and rockfall danger.

The difficulty of the ascent significantly increased due to the snow that fell in late October. Complications of the route due to fallen snow and ice were anticipated during the preparation for the ascent. A sufficient supply of warm clothing and food was taken for overnight stays on the route. The route itself is a wall divided into several parts by ledges. The beginning of the route and its wall part are logical. To the left of the route are the walls of the North buttress, to the right — a small ridge with sheer walls. Climbing is complex, especially in the upper inner corner with overhangs. In this section, ladders were often used. Both overnight stays were in a lying position. The second one is particularly convenient, protected from wind and snow by a cornice. Early stops for the night were due to darkness by 17:00. In my opinion, the route fully corresponds to 5A cat. diff., and in the given conditions exceeds this category of difficulty. I'm satisfied with the group. I believe the ascent should be credited to all participants.

Reshetnyak V.A. — member.

The ascent was enjoyable. The group worked very cohesively. The safety of the route was fully ensured. I believe the route corresponds to 5A cat. diff., and it should be credited to the participants, and the leadership — to the leader.

Date	Designation	Average steepness (in °)	Length (in m)	Terrain character	Category of difficulty	State of rocks	Weather conditions	Rock pitons (pcs.)	Ice pitons (pcs.)	Bolts (pcs.)	Chocks (pcs.)
November 4, 1980	R0–R1	60	20	Ledge.	3	Snow.	clear.	2	1	–	3
Start at 7:25	R1–R2	85	20	Inner corner	5	Snow-covered rocks.	-"-	4	–	–	2
	R2–R3	85	40	Wall.	5	Snow, ice.	-"-	6	1	–	4
	R3–R4	90	6	Wall.	5	Monolithic.	-"-	4	–	–	–
End at 16:00	R4–R5	50	80	Couloir.	4	Snow, ice.	-"-	6	2	–	4
	R5–R6	60	80	Ledge.	4	Snow, ice.	-"-	12	–	–	5
	R6–R7	80	35	Cleft.	5	Monolithic.	-"-	6	1	–	2
	R7–R8	85	50	Wall.	5	Monolithic.	-"-	4	–	–	8
	R8–R9	70	40	Wall.	4	Snow, ice.	-"-	7	–	–	2
	R9–R10	40	20	Ledge.	3	Snow.	-"-	2	–	–	4
	R10–R11	80	60	Wall.	5	Monolithic.	-"-	11	–	–	–
	R11–R12	70	30	Wall.	5	Monolithic.	-"-	4	–	–	5
	R12–R13	40	15	Ledge.	3	Snow, ice.	-"-	3	–	–	2
Overnight stay, 30 m short of the rock bastion.
Overnight stay in a lying position. Control tour.
November 5, 1980	R13–R14	70	30	Wall.	5	Snow, ice.	clear.	14	–	–	6
Start at 7:30	R14–R15	50	15	Ledge.	4	Snow, ice.	-"-	3	–	–	1
	R15–R16	85	80	Inner corner.	5	Monolithic.	-"-	15	–	–	7
	R16–R17	40	200	Scree ledge.	3	Snow, ice.	-"-	6	2	–	–
	R17–R18	90	40	Inner corner.	5	Monolithic.	-"-	15	–	–	3
End at 16:00	R18–R19	40	120	Scree ledge.	3	Snow, ice.	-"-	10	–	–	2
Overnight stay under the overhanging cornice of the II rock belt.
Overnight stay in a lying position.
November 6, 1980	R19–R20	40	100	Scree ledge.	3	Snow, ice.	-"-	4	–	–	7
Start at 7:30	R20–R21	80	40	Chimney.	5	Fragmented.	-"-	5	–	–	2
	R21–R22	50	100	Scree ledge.	3	Snow, ice.	-"-	–	–	–	–
	R22–R23	39	800	Scree.	1	Snow.	-"-	–	–	–	–
Reached the summit at 14:00.

Brief explanation of the table

Section R0–R1. Up a steep snowy ledge to the left to the base of the inner corner.
Section R1–R2. Wide inner corner, abutting a hanging slab and turning sharply right behind a chip.
Section R2–R3. To the left of the chip, traverse 3 m and up the wall of black color.
Section R3–R4. Straight up the wall.
Section R4–R5. Move along the right wall of the couloir to the base of the rock bastion.
Section R5–R6. Up a steep snowy slab to the left.
Section R6–R7. The ledge turns into a cleft. Straight up to the overhanging section.
Section R7–R8. Transfer from the cleft to the left wall. Continue straight up.
Section R8–R9. A destroyed wall with destroyed cracks and fissures.
Section R9–R10. Approach a steep wall via a snowy ledge.
Section R10–R11. Move up to a small ledge.
Section R11–R12. To the left of a large overhanging rock, 15 m up the wall.
Section R12–R13. Snowy hollow. Control tour. Tent site.
Section R13–R14. Up the wall to the right to a cave.
Section R14–R15. Traverse right to the base of the inner corner.
Section R15–R16. Up the inner corner, destroyed in the lower part, to a ledge. Control tour.
Section R16–R17. Up a scree ledge to the right to a rock belt and along it to an inner corner.
Section R17–R18. Sheer inner corner. Ladders.
Section R18–R19. Along a scree ledge to the right under the overhang of the II rock belt. Tent site.
Section R19–R20. Up a ledge to the right to the base of a chimney.
Section R20–R21. Up the chimney.
Section R21–R22. Up a ledge to the left to the "gates" in the rock belt.
Section R22–R23. Exit to a scree ridge. Along the ridge and then across scree fields to v. Yarydag Glavnaya. 2.5 hours of walking from the ridge.

Related to

Minutes

Brief explanation of the table

Attached files

Sources

Comments