Tourist and Alpinist Club

PLANET

Report

on the first ascent to

Yerydag peak

via the right part of the western wall.

Team members: team leader Maksyukov Artyom Aleksandrovich An Konstantin Radievich Coach: Dmitrienko Evgeny Vladimirovich

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Category — Rock 2. Area from Krestovy Pass to Tfan peak 3. Erydag is centered in the left part of the western wall. 4. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 820 m, of which 410 m is wall section, length — 2100 m, of which 600 m is wall section, length of sections R4–R5 category of difficulty — 450 m, of which R5 category of difficulty is about 150 m. Average steepness of main sections — 67 °. 6. Equipment used on the route: rock pitons — 98, bolt pitons — 6, chocks — 33, ice screws — 0. 7. Team's climbing hours — 23, days — 3.5. 8. Overnights: 1st lying on a rock shelf, 2nd semi-reclining on a rock shelf, 3rd lying on a plateau. 9. Team leader: Nekrasov Alexander Olegovich, Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Log

1. Category: rock climbing.
2. Caucasus (Eastern), Chekhychay River gorge.
3. V. Erydag, via the left part of the western wall (Nekrasov's route).
4. Category 5B, 3rd ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 650–700 m; length — 900 m. Length of sections:

• Category 5 — 160 m;
• Category 6 — 20 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 70°.

1. Class - winter
2. Caucasus Eastern, Dagestan, Chekhychay river gorge
3. Erydag via the center of the West wall
4. Nekrasov's Route (86, Leningrad) - second ascent
5. Height difference 480 m, length 530 m, sections of 5th cat. diff. 300 m, 6th cat. diff. 30 m, avg. slope 65°
6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | ice | bolt | | :--: | :--: | :-: | :--: | | 4/2 | 68/1 | 0/0 | 4/2+1 |
7. Team's travel hours - 22, days - 4

Climbing Report

To the summit of Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the left part of the 3rd wall (A. Nekrasov's route, 1986, 5A category of complexity) The route was completed on April 29, 2023, by the team of Alpine Club "Bars" (St. Petersburg):

• Nikolai Yakuba
• Denis Chetverikov
• Natalia Tsareva

Contents

1. Climbing Passport — 3
2. Route Description — 5
3. Tactical Actions of the Team — 6

ASCENT PASSPORT

I. Ascent class: rock 2. Ascent area, ridge: East Caucasus 3. Summit, its height, ascent route: I-ya Zapadnaya Yarydag via left edge of Western wall (Polyakov's route) 4200 m 3rd ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 820 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 456 m, 6 difficulty category — 90 m, average steepness 78°. 6. Pitons used: for belaying: chocks 56, rock 108, ice 0, bolt 3. for creating artificial anchors: rock — IX, ice — 0, bolt — 0.

ASCENT REPORT

I. Climbing category: rock climbing 2. Climbing area: Eridag ridge, Chekhychay gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route characteristics: Eridag, 3925 m, via the left edge of the Western wall (A. Polyakov's route, variation), rock climbing. 4. Category complexity 5B, second ascent of the variation. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m, length — 2165 m. Length of sections: 6th cat. diff. — 453 m, 5th cat. diff. — 440 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 73°. 6. Number of pitons driven: 7. Number of climbing hours — 12 h 45 min.

PASSPORT

I. Category of first ascents 2. Caucasus, Eastern, Yarydag 3. Peak Yarydag, through the center of the Western wall via "feathers" 4. Assumed to be 5B category difficulty (first ascent) 5. Elevation difference of the wall part of the route — 530 m, length of the wall part of the route — 740 m (including traverses). Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°, including 6 category difficulty — 92° (95 m)

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing class — rock (within the framework of the winter class of the Russian Championship)
2. Climbing area — Eastern Caucasus, Chekhychay gorge, Dagestan
3. Erydag (3925 m) via the center of the Western wall through the "feathers" (Samoded route)
4. Complexity category — 5B
5. Height difference: — 880 m
   • of which on the wall part of the route — 680 m
   • total route length — 1930 m
   • wall section length — 930 m
   • of which 5th cat. diff. — 525 m

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ВАСПОРТ ВОСХОЖДЕНИЯ (third ascent)

1. Class of ascent — rock.
2. Region of ascent — Caucasus. | | | :-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: |
3. Peak, its height and ascent route —