Ergaki

Mountain range3,901.41 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Climbing passport for Zvezdny Peak via the south wall chimney, 5A category of complexity route, 320 m elevation gain, 450 m length.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2001 classification table - 6.2
  2. Peak: Zvezdny 2265, via the chimney on the South face, 5A
  3. Route type: rock
  4. Route elevation gain: 320 (by altimeter) Route length: 450 m. Length of sections:
    • V difficulty category – 120 m.
    • VI difficulty category – 150 m. Average steepness:
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Route passport for Category III+ hike to Zvezdny Peak (2265 m) via the South-West Edge in the Ergaki massif, Western Sayan.

Passport

  1. Rock class.
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m via the South-West edge.
  4. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 315 m, length 340 m, length of section 5–6 category of difficulty 210 m.
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Description of a new Trad route, category 5A, to Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, in the Western Sayan Mountains, climbed by the Zhigalov-Pachuev team in alpine style on August 12, 2016.

Ascent Passport

  1. Area — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p.6.2
  2. Peak — Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the right part of the 3rd wall, "Tred" route
  3. Claimed — 5A cat. diff. — first ascent
  4. Route type — rock climbing

5. Route Characteristics:

elevation gain — 315 m, total route length — 328 m, length of 6th cat. diff. sections — 170 m, 5th cat. diff. — 75 m, average steepness of the entire route — 65.4° 6. Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 41/35, 1 left behind, broken, on the mid-shelf, camalots — 51/32, about 35 IT0 on "fifas", about 9 IT0 on skyhooks, 1 IT0 on a bolt. 7. Total climbing hours — 8 h 45 min, days — 1. Descent 2 h via Lebedev's route, "Kant", 5A cat. diff. No overnight stays

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Report on the first ascent of Pik Zvezdny via the right part of the South Face, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed route description and technical details.

REPORT

on the ascent (first ascent) of p. Zvezdniy via the right part of the South wall (proposed 5A(5B) category of difficulty) I suggest considering it as 5B for the group. Balezin V. V. Participants:

  • Smaikina S.V.
  • Kovaleva A.V.
  • Coach Temerev I.M.

ASCENT PASSPORT

  1. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2008 classification table – 6.2
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Ascent of Pik Zvezdny (2265 m) by the western ridge in Western Sayan, complexity category II, first ascent in February 1997.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock class.
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, via W. ridge.
  4. Proposed 3B cat. dif., first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics:
    • Elevation gain 450 m
    • Length 1160 m
    • Length of sect. 5 cat. dif. 55 m, 75°
    • Average steepness 45°
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Report on the ascent made by Korochkov's team to the summit of Dinosaur in the Western Sayan Mountains via the northwest wall, a Category 6A route.

Ascent Passport.

  1. Climbing area — Western Sayan, section according to the 1999 classification table No. 6.2
  2. Name of the peak — Dinosaur, name of the route — via NW wall.
  3. Proposed 6A cat. diff. 2nd ascent. 6A
  4. Nature of the route — rock climbing.
  5. Height difference of the route: 450 m (by altimeter) Length of sections:
  • 5 cat. diff. — 60 m,
  • 6 cat. diff. — 280 m. Average steepness:
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Climbing passport for Peak Dinosaur 2221 m via the Northwest Wall, complexity category 5B, first ascent.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent category — rock
  2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Dinosaur Peak 2221 m via the left part of the NW wall.
  4. Category — 5B first ascent. (2 ascents — Fedorov + 3 2001)
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 470 m total length — 560 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 260 m, 5th category of difficulty — 170 m. Average steepness: total route — 65°, main part: 75°
  6. Equipment used on the route: | chocks | rock pitons | bolt pitons | skyhooks | | :----: | :---------: | :---------: | :-------: |
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Category 1B route on Peak Dinosaur (2221 m) in the Western Sayan Mountains, first ascent, rocky, 1400 m long, elevation gain 421 m.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock class.
  2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
  3. Peak Dinosaur, 2221 m, from pass Pikantny.
  4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 421 m, length 1400 m, average slope 20°.
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"Slesarnya" is a new 5B category route to the summit of Pik Golova (1970 m) in the Ergaki mountain range, Western Sayan, climbed in December 2014.

Ascent Log

Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p. 6.2. Peak — Golova, 1970 m, direct route up the E wall, route name "Slesarnya". Category — 5B cat. sl., first ascent. Route type — rock climb. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, total route length — 470 m, length of wall section — 320 m, length of sections with 6 cat. sl. — 225 m, 5 cat. sl. — 15 m,

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Report on the first ascent of the route of 5A category of difficulty to the summit Golova Sayana via the left part of the NW wall.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Golova Sayana (1970 m) via the left part of the NW wall, category 5A, by a team from Krasnoyarsk Krai, from May 25, 2018, to May 26, 2018.

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the team leaderIvanov Timofey Pavlovich, CMS
1.2Full names, sports ranks of the participantsZhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, MS, Efremov Maxim Gennadievich, CMS
1.3Full names of the coachesZakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich
Full names of the coachesBalezin Valery Viktorovich
1.4OrganizationKrasnoyarsk Krai Alpine Federation
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