UPI Peak

3603 m

07451

Report of the Kemerovo Region team (FACO) on the ascent to UPI Peak via the right part of the NW slope "3B", (k)

Participants:

Gette V.M. Zubkov A.Yu.

Ascent Passport

1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley.
2. UPI Peak, via the right part of the NW slope.

V. UPI

3603 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk Region team (TFA) on completing the ascent to v. UPI via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope "4A" (k)

Participants

Temerev I.M. Lizin I.S.

ASCENT DETAILS:

1. North-Chuya Ridge, Aktru valley, 102
2. Peak UPI, via the ice gully along the rock buttress on the NW slope.

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge.
2. v. UPI, center of the NW slope.
3. route 2B cat. sl., first ascent is proposed.
4. Nature of the route: ice.
5. Height difference of the route — 500 m. Route length — 1000 m. Length of sections:

• 2 cat. sl. — 550 m.
• 3 cat. sl. — 450 m. Average steepness:

V. UPI from the north, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move up the river to the beginning of the B.Aktru glacier (right) and up it to the first step of the icefall, located between the "khitsan" and the slope of v.Kar­atash (link up!). Time 1–1.5 hours. The first stage is overcome between the slopes of the peaks Karatash and the icefall (left along the track). Climb up the snowy slope to the second stage, which is bypassed on the left along the track, next to the rocky ridge of the peak are snowy. Cross the glacier in the direction of the peak UPI (crevasses!). Time 1.5–2 hours. Climb up the snowy-icy slope of the peak UPI to the pre-summit ridge. The ridge is sharp. The western side of the ridge is icy, the eastern side breaks off with cornices. Move along

Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak:

• At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one.
• Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw".
• Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge.
• The "saw" is the key section of the route.
• After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley

STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed:

• Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a
• Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length:
• to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)

PASSPORT

1. Category of first ascent.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Stazerov, 3rd category (3750 m)
4. 2B first ascent is proposed.
5. Descent from Bolshoy Aktru glacier is 760 m, length is 1600 m.
6. Ice screws — 5 pieces.
7. Travel hours from camp to camp — 10 hours.
8. Overnight stay was not organized, approach and overnight stay are possible (at "Goluboe ozero").

Peak Stazhyorov from Znakchikov Pass, 2A cat. dif.

Approach

From the camp, move up towards the Big Akturu glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "sheepbacks" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Then move along the edge of the glacier. A glaciologists' camp is located on the moraine ridge, and beyond the ridge lies the Blue Lake. It takes 3–4.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the moraine lake, move up towards the Znakchikov Pass. The ascent initially goes along scree or a snowy slope (depending on the season). Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Route

Then ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the summit ridge. Movement:

• initially simultaneous,
• then on steep snow-ice sections — alternating with belay (up to 45°). In the upper part of the slope, it may be necessary to cross a crevasse. Then along the summit ridge reach the summit.

V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.

From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Region — Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge.
3. Peak Snezhnyaya (3800 m), via ice couloir on S wall, ice and snow route.
4. Anticipated difficulty category — 5A–5B (winter), first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1100 m. Wall height difference — 800 m. Length: 1700 m. Length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 655 m. Average steepness of the wall — 56° (2700–3500 m).