Central Greater Himalaya

Mountain range109,208.28 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
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Report on the ascent of Makalu (8463 m) via the Northwest Ridge, category 6A, with a description of the tactics and technical details of the route.

Ascent Passport

  1. Category — High-altitude technical
  2. Himalayas, Barun river gorge
  3. Makalu (8463 m) via Northwest Ridge
  4. Proposed category: 6A
  5. Elevation gain: 2663 m; Distance: 7950 m. Average slope: main part of the route (above bergschrund) — 27°, entire route — 20° | 6. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | snow | | :----------------: | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: | | 15 | 20 | 30 | 12 | 0 |
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Description of the ascent route to Makalu (8463 m) via the Northwest Ridge, category III-IV (or 5B in Russian grading, ED in IFAS grading), completed in 1996 without the use of oxygen.

Passport

I. Class of ascents — high-altitude technical 2. Region — Himalayas 3. Peak MAKALU (8463 m) via NW ridge, combined route 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B 5. Elevation gain: 2663 m (5800–8463 m), distance — 6200 m Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 900 m Average steepness — 35° 6. Pitons driven: rock 43, chocks 52, ice screws 18, snow stakes 12

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First ascent of Lhotse Shar (8386 m) South-East Ridge by Russian team in 1998 via route 6B cat. diff.

Passport

  1. High-altitude technical category
  2. Central Himalayas. Main Himalayan Range
  3. Lhotse Shar peak (8386 m) via the South-East ridge
  4. 6B category of difficulty (tentative), first ascent
  5. Elevation gain: 3036 m, length 5460 m Average slope of the route — 36°
  6. Pitons driven: | rock | chocks | ice | snow | | :--: | :----: | :--: | :--: |
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Description of the first ascent to the summit of Jotse Middle (8414 m) along the Eastern Ridge in the Himalayas, category of complexity 6B, a combined route of 10550 m.

Ascent Passport

  1. Himalayas, Main Himalayan Range, section 10.1.
  2. Lhotse Middle Peak, 8414 m via the East Ridge
  3. Assumed 6B cat. diff., first ascent
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Route elevation gain: 3100 m. Route length: 10550 m. Length of sections with 5–6B cat. diff.: 210 m. Average slope:
  • Main part of the route — 29°
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Report on the ascent of the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Lhotse (8516 m) via the northwest wall couloir in the Himalayas in 2013.

ST. PETERSBURG ALPINISM FEDERATION

St. Petersburg High-Altitude Climbing Cup 2013

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO LHOTSE MAIN (8516 m) VIA THE NORTHWEST FACE COULoir, 5B category

St. Petersburg Team

Team Captain: Viktor Aleksandrovich Koval Team Coaches:

  • Tatyana Ivanovna Timoshenko
  • Oleg Viktorovich Kapitanov

Ascent Passport

  1. Himalayas, section 10.1 of the mountain route classifier
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Report on the first ascent of the "Two Arrows Flight" route, category 6A, on the right part of the eastern wall of Lhotse Shar in the Himalayas.

Federation of Alpinism and Climbing of Ukraine

Report on the ascent of Lobuche East, 6119 m, via the right part of the eastern wall ("Two Arrows Flight"), 6A category. Team report from the Odessa Alpine Club

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: technical.
  2. Location of the peak: Himalayas, Sagarmatha National Park, Solu Khumbu region
  3. Peak name: Lobuche (Lobuje, Lobuche) East, 6119 m
  4. Route: via the right part of the eastern wall ("Two Arrows Flight")
  5. Complexity category: 6A (proposed)
  6. Route type: combined
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Report on the first ascent of the route "Up the center of the western wall" category 6B on Khyazro Ri peak in the Himalayas in 2019.

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF KYAJO RI VIA "THE CENTER OF THE WESTERN WALL" ROUTE, CATEGORY 6B, BY THE ROSTOV REGION ALPINISM TEAM FROM OCTOBER 2 TO OCTOBER 9, 2019

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, Sports Rank of the LeaderVasiliev Andrey Sergeevich, Master of Sports
1.2Full Name, Sports Rank of ParticipantsOsipov Ivan Dmitrievich, Master of Sports, Rybalchenko Dmitry Andreevich, Master of Sports, Shipilov Vitaly Viktorovich, Master of Sports
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Report on the ascent of the Kazakhstan national team to Kangchenjunga (8586 m) via the Southwest Face from the Yalung Glacier in 2002.

ASCENT LOG

  1. Mountain system — Himalayas
  2. Kangchenjunga peak, 8586 m, Southwest slope from Yalung Glacier.
  3. Category of complexity — 6A approximately
  4. Character — combined
  5. Route length — 16723 m Length of sections V–VI cat. difficulty — 3 m
  6. Height difference of the route — 2986 m
  7. Pitons used: total — 42 left on the route — 12
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First ascent of the North Face of Kali Himal (7,044 m) in the Himalayas, category 6A, a combined route, 2,935 m long, made by an Italian-Russian-Kazakhstan expedition in April-May 2004.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Main Himalayan ridge, Baruntze spur.
  2. Kali-Himal Peak (7044 m), ascent from Imja Glacier via the center of the North Face, first ascent.
  3. Submitted category: 6A.
  4. Route type: combined.
  5. Route height difference: 1744 m. Route length: 2935 m. Section lengths:
  • Category V: 135 m.
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Report on the ascent of the team "Russian Way — walls of the world" to Janna Peak (7710 m) via the North Face in 2004.

Federation of Alpinism of Russia

Report

On the ascent to Jannu peak (7710 m), Nepal, Himalayas, via the center of the North face, 6B cat. difficulty (approximately), by the team "Russian Path — Walls of the World", on May 26, 2004. Leader: Odintsov A.N. Participants:

  • Totmyanin N.A.
  • Ruchkin A.A.
  • Mikhailov M.M.
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