4.12.75

ON ASCENT TO PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII VIA SOUTH RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA GLACIER THROUGH PIK 6254 m. A COLLECTIVE OF ALPINISM INSTRUCTORS FROM THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. THE ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. 1968 Photo 2. Pioneering ridge of Pik Revolyutsii. (Taken from the overnight stop on descent from Pik 6254 m.) The objectives of our team's ascents in the 1968 season were Pik 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) and Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m). These peaks had been visited by Soviet climbers several times before, but all ascents were made either from the Fedchenko Glacier or the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier. Our team's task was complicated by the fact that the chosen routes to these peaks started from the south, a region that Soviet climbers rarely explored. Participants of the Armed Forces (AF) gathering began preparing for the expedition in the autumn of 1967.

10. TEAM COACH – HONORED COACH OF THE USSR, MASTER OF SPORTS SIVTSOV Boris Grigorievich 11. DATE OF DEPARTURE ON THE ROUTE AND RETURN TO THE CAMP: 16.08.1973 – 23.08.1973.

Map-Scheme of the Ascent Area

§1. Brief Geographical Description

Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) is located in the Central Pamir in the eastern end of the Yazgulemsky ridge. Together with its neighbors along the ridge:

1. Climbing category — altitude-technical
2. Climbing region — Yazgulemsky ridge
3. Peak Shipka, 6254 m, central buttress of NW wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route description Height difference — 2154 m, average steepness — 45°, average steepness of wall section — 60°, length of sections: R0 — 0; R1 — 500 m; R2 — 1550 m; R3 — 710 m; R4 — 305 m; R5 — 150 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, rock — 96, ice — 0, bolt — 0 for creating belay anchors — 8
7. Total hours of climbing — 42

Ascent to Peak Shipka (6247 m) via the Southwest Ridge Central Council of DSO "Zenit" 1970 Brief Geographical and Geological Characteristics of the Peak Shipka Area Peak Shipka (6247 m) is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR. Along with the peaks:

• Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m),
• Peak October Revolution (6974 m),
• Peak Paris Commune (6002 m), Peak Shipka encloses the Yazgulem-Dara valley, at the head of which lies the eponymous glacier, stretching over 15 km. On geographical maps, the name of the glacier and valley is incorrectly printed with "E" instead of "Ё", though this is a local name and is pronounced as YAZGULЁM-DARA.

— 1970 — Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 3°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 31°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs at one location on a snowy ridge at an altitude of about 5700 m.

REPORT

Red Banner Turkestan Military District ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF "SHIPKA" PEAK 6254 m VIA THE WESTERN RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA, CATEGORY 5B The route was claimed for the primacy of the Armed Forces of the USSR in the high-altitude category. Tashkent – 1968 Shipka Peak (6254 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara River, in the southern spur of the Yazgulemsky Range, in the ridge extending from Peak October Revolution (6974 m). The most accessible approaches to the peak are from the Yazgulem-Dara Glacier. Only one route of category 4B difficulty (approximately) had been previously laid to the peak, via the southern ridge from the col between Shipka Peak and peak 5682 m. The group believed that the most interesting and challenging route could be laid via the western ridge. Preliminary reconnaissance of the route revealed that the route to Shipka Peak is a sharply rising ridge with two horizontal sections. There are two towers on the ridge:

• the first is in the middle section, over 300 m high;
• the second, the summit tower, is over 600–700 m high.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak 5200 m via the center of the northwest wall
4. Estimated difficulty — 5B cat. (first ascent)
5. Ascent description (route): Height difference — 1200 m Length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 448 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 165 m Average steepness 64°
6. Pitons used: for belaying: rock — 144 (including protection gear), bolt — 6, ice — 4; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 4

PN 521 № 1 of 23.11.82 5B/" Climbing Passport

1. Category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Vydvyadzh valley
3. Peak "5200", via the North-West wall through the "finger" and along the North ridge.
4. Assumed — 5B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1300 m, length of sections with V–VI category of difficulty — 782 m.