ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area, ridge - Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope from Belyaev Glacier 4. Difficulty category - 6 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 2800 m length of sections with 5-6 cat. difficulty - 1975 m average steepness (up to 6950 m) - 54° 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors.

Ascent Passport.

1. Ascent category — high-altitude.
2. Ascent area, range — Central Pamir, Akademii Nauk range.
3. Peak, its height, route — p. Kommunizma 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope of the Belyaev Glacier.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2825 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1425 m, average steepness up to 6950 m — 55°.
6. Pitons hammered: on bivouacs — 4 rock; for belay: rock — 33, ice — 14.
7. Number of climbing hours — 32.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: three nights at heights 6100, 6700, 6950 m.
9. Full name of the leader and participants:

Altai Regional Alpine Federation

For the Championship of the Soviet Union in the class of high-altitude ascents.

Report

on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 meters) via the counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier (sixth category of difficulty) Barnaul, 1969

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

In the center of the North-Western Pamir, at the junction of two ridges – Peter the First and Academy of Sciences, on the territory of the Tajik SSR is located the highest peak of the Soviet Union – Peak Kommunizma. The area of Peak Kommunizma, which has a height of 7495 meters above sea level, is the most elevated part of the Pamir. The snow line in this area is at an altitude of 4000–4300 m. The sharply continental climate creates favorable conditions for the formation of ice, which covers the slopes of the ridges, peaks, and, sliding down from them, accumulates in the valleys. For example, glaciers:

• Fedchenko
• Garmo
• Gando

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — High-altitude
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations — East ridge of Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m
4. Ascent description: height difference 2895 m, average slope 40°, complex section length — 277 m
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 23, ice — none, bolted — none
6. Total climbing hours — 28 h 30 min
7. Number of bivouacs and their description — six: during ascent — on 4600 m № 1, on 5900 m № 2, on 6400 m № 3, on 6900 m № 4; during descent — on 6900 m № 4, on 5600 m № 5. All bivouacs were lying down and comfortable.

41

COMBAT TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF TURKESTAN MILITARY DISTRICT COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF UZSSR REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE USSR – STALIN PEAK (height 7495 m) VIA THE EAST RIDGE Tashkent 1958 ROUTE SCHEMATIC OF THE ASCENT TO STALIN PEAK (Height 7495 m)

I. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Stalin Peak

4.1.41.

Alpinism Federation of the Lithuanian SSR

Report on the ascent via the eastern counterfort of Peak Kommunizma to 6500 m by the team of the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports of the Lithuanian SSR

1971 Team composition:

• G. Bernatonis — captain
• E. Adomaitis
• D. Makauskas — coach
• S. Miglinas
• V. Šaduikis

41. Kommunizma. P. Budanov, 68.

4.1.40. Brief geographical description. Sporting characteristics of the ascent object and route conditions

The highest point in the USSR - Peak Kommunizma -32,7495 m, is located in the Academy of Sciences Range in the Central Pamir. This area is quite frequently visited by mountaineering expeditions and is fairly well studied both geographically and in terms of mountaineering. The rocky formations in this area are quite brittle and fragile, posing an objective danger when overcome. A large amount of precipitation falls in the area of the Academy of Sciences Range, and the weather is quite unstable with strong winds. After the first ascent by E.M. Abalakova in 1933 via the W ridge, a large number of ascents to Peak Kommunizma have been made from various sides, and this year saw the largest number of climbers. A total of 62 people reached the summit, including the first woman.

2. Reconnaissance

July 17-21, a group consisting of Kletsko K.B., Agranovskii G.L., and Kletsko B.B. went to the area of height 4600 m (the location of the previous expedition's assault camp at the junction of the Kommunizma and Ordzhonikidze glaciers) to receive cargo dropped by helicopter and to visually observe the state of the route.

Report

On ascending the peak of Ismoila Somoni (formerly Peak Kommunizma) via the southern slope from Walter Glacier, BPP, and "Big Barrier" ("Classics") - ice-snow route, category 5A difficulty, by the "Bars" team from August 11, 2022, to August 20, 2022.

I. Ascent Report

Russian Mountaineering Championship

High-altitude class

2018

REPORT of the Rostov-Arkhangelsk region team on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma via the Borodkin route

Ascent Details

1. Region: 4. PAMIR 4.1. Academy of Sciences range (western side of Fedchenko glacier from Yazgulyam pass in the south to Muksu river in the north with all lateral spurs)

I. High-altitude class. 2. Pamir. Akademiya Nauk Range. 3. Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the northern route through p. 6950 m (Borodkin) 4. Difficulty category — 5A 5. Elevation gain: 3300 m average slope of the route 40° section lengths:

• R2 — 1200 m
• R3 — 4000 m
• R4 — 600 m