Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak: Skalnaya Wall (4800 m), route via the Eastern ridge 4. Difficulty category: 4B 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — about 1400 m. Average slope — about 30°. Section lengths: 2nd difficulty category ≈ 1100 m, 3rd difficulty category ≈ 800 m, 4th difficulty category ≈ 550 m. 6. Pitons hammered for safety: rock — 33 (out of which for creating artificial footholds — 0), chocks — 4

61

DESCRIPTION

Ascent to the peak Selegrad, cat. III first ascent via the South-West ridge Peak Selegrad. Start of the ascent to the South-West ridge. --- previously traversed route, cat. III

1. Sports organization: Sports club of Moscow Aviation Institute
2. Ascent class: Technical
3. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
4. Ascent route: Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m) via the "pillar" (center of the north face)
5. Ascent characteristics: a) height difference 990 m (1095 and 65°); b) average steepness: 1) "pillar" — 75°, 2) route — 65°; c) length of the "pillar" — 675 m
6. Pitons driven: a) rock — 132 pcs., b) ice — 35 pcs., c) expansion bolts — none
7. Number of climbing hours: 42 hours

ASCENT DOCUMENT 60a

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Sakharnaya Golova, 4971 m, via the "table" (center of the north face).
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1000 m, b) length of 5B category sections — 675 m ("pillar"). c) average steepness: "pillar" — 75°, route — 65°.
6. Pitons hammered: a) rock — 148, b) ice — 28, c) bolted — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 31 h.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — 2 (1 — lying, 2 — semi-reclining).

Ascent Passport

I. Technical Climbing Category. 2. Area 5.3. Zeravshan Range. 3. Peak Sakharnaya Golova (4971 m), via the right buttress of the North face. 4. 5-6 difficulty category. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 970 m average steepness — 65°, section lengths: I difficulty level — 120 m, II difficulty level — 40 m, III difficulty level — 200 m, IV difficulty level — 430 m, V-VI difficulty level — 465 m 6. Pitons driven: for belaying — rock: 71, ice: 16, chocks: 14; for creating artificial anchors — rock: 3. 7. Total climbing hours — 24. 8. Two bivouacs on the route on platforms without a tent.

Ascent Description of Sugar Loaf Peak via the Central Part of the East Face

Approximately 5–6 category of difficulty. The route was traversed by a group of participants from the LETI alpinade named after V.I. Ulyanov (Lenin). FAN MOUNTAINS, Leningrad, 1974 Peak Sugar Loaf (4971 m) from the east.

2. Brief Geographical Description of the Area and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Sugar Loaf peak (4971 m above sea level) is located in the Zeravshan ridge (Fan Mountains). The section of the ridge where the peak is situated serves as a watershed for the basins of the following rivers:

• Akhbasoi (to the east)

Republican Climbing Club

Council of the Union of Sports Societies and Organizations

Kazakh SSR

Report

On the ascent of Peak Sugar Head (4971 m) via the northeast edge (Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alay) (First ascent) Alma-Ata 1966 

Photo #1

NORTHEAST EDGE OF PEAK

Central Sports Council, Malachite Sports Club

Psalmiro - Alay. Fann Mountains

Sugar Head 4971 m. Via North-East Ridge

5A category of complexity Team of Malachite Sports Club on a group voucher to Varzob Alpine Camp. Team captain - Yushkevich Vladimir Ivanovich - 1st sports category Team members:

• Kolesnikov Alexander Alekseevich - 2nd sports category
• Sergeev Yuri Olegovich - 2nd sports category
• Stepanenko Mikhail Mikhailovich - 2nd sports category

descent on a rope with leaving a loop. Further descent along the couloir and osnam bypassing the gendarme Amna-Krun to the pass between the peaks Moskva and Sakharnaya Golova. From the pass, descent to the Akhbasoy glacier. The travel time from the saddle between the peaks and the gendarme to the Akhbasoy glacier is about 4–6 hours.

Recommendations

I. It's better to start the ascent up the snow-ice slope to the gendarme not later than 7:00–7:30 am, when the snow is not too soft. When ascending from the saddle to the summit, have:

• one pair of crampons
• non-frozen sneakers

Pixaxa Frozen Head

45, comb, with glacier A-basoi on the wall to the saddle of the 3rd ridge. Exit to the route from the foot of glacier A-basoi under the wall of the gendarme Amna-Krun of the 3rd rib of the summit. The ascent from the glacier to the wall of the gendarme is done via an ice pitch with a steepness of 50–60° and a length of about 150 m. When passing, steps are cut and ice axes are used (5–6 pcs.). After the ice pitch, there is a gully with rimed ice (30 m) of the same steepness. Insurance is hook, many loose rocks. From the gully, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (120 m). After the rocks, along a snow-ice slope, exit to a rock route выступ, where an overnight stay can be organized. From the overnight stay location:

• Ascent along a longitudinal ice slope (120 m) to a rock выступ (island).
• Further ascent along difficult steep rocks to the left of the couloir with rimed ice 20 m, 60–70°.
• The upper part of the couloir flattens to 40–45° (40 m).
• Exit to a weakly expressed rock ridge.
• Movement along a rocky ice slope (80 m) up to 70° to a mulde, then after 60 m along an ice slope - exit to the edge of a gendarme. There is a place for an overnight stay. All sections of the route are passed with thorough insurance, hook.