Report

On the ascent to the summit of Pik Asan via the Timofeev route, 6A category of difficulty, by the MSU alpine club team from August 14 to 19, 2019.

I. Climbing Report

Ascent Passport

1. Region, gorges: Turkestan Range, Karavshin. 5.4.3.
2. Name of the peak: Asan, route name: via the center of NW wall (Timofeev 1988). 4230 m.
3. Proposed: 6B category of difficulty.
4. Route character: rock.
5. Route height difference: 1330 m, maximum 500 m. Route length: 1391 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty 300 m, VI category of difficulty 545 m. Average steepness: main part of the route 77°, total route 73°.
6. "Hooks" left on the route:

Passport

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley.
3. Peak Asan Northeast wall (Timofeev's route).
4. 6B category of difficulty.
5. Height difference 750 m, length 1225 m. Length of sections:

• VI–475 m
• V–190 m
• IV–130 m

PASSPORT

1. Rock class
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Kara-Su gorge
3. Peak Asan 4230 m, via the right part of the northwest wall
4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, 2nd ascent
5. Height difference — 960 m, length — 1445 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 700 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 74° (3420–4050 m) Including 6th category: 80° (3460–3500, 3520–3610, 3710–3760, 3890–3960), 85° (3640–3710), 95° (3960–3965), 100° (3610–3620)

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
2. Peak Asan, Timofeev's route through the center of the NW wall.
3. 6A category of difficulty
4. Route type: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 930 m (3300–4230)
6. Route length: 1110 m Length of sections: cat. diff. V — 215 m, cat. diff. VI — 635 m. Average slope: main part of the route — 80°, entire route — 70°. Hooks left on the route: total — 2; incl. bolted — 2.

PASSPORT I. Rock class 2. Pamir-Alai, Karasu gorge 3. V. Asan (4230 m) via the right part of the N wall 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent 5. Height difference: 1030 m, length - 1435 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 630 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 70° (3300-4150 m), including 6B category of difficulty 36° (3400-3700 m); 81° (3300-3360 m). 6. Used on the route: rock pitons - 8/0, bolt pitons - 13/8, chocks - 220/37. 7. Climbing hours - 45, days - 4.5 (including descent).

Ascent Report

of the team of the Odessa Alpine Club to the peak Asan (4230 m) via the right part of the Northwest wall (first ascent). CIS Championship (EASC) in Alpinism. High-altitude and technical ascents class. Pamir-Alai, Karavshin, August 2007. Odessa – 2007.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alai, Karavshin valley, 5.4.3
2. peak Asan, 4230 m, via the right part of the NW wall.
3. Claimed – 6A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 930 m (3300–4230). Route length: 1040 m.

I. Rock Class

2. Northern spurs of the Turkestan Range, Kara-su gorge
3. Peak "4230", via the Northwest wall
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference 880 m, length 1153 m
6. Length of sections with 6B category of difficulty 713 m, 5B category of difficulty 100 m Average slope of the route 70°, average slope of the wall part 80°
7. Number of driven pitons: rock 148/35, chocks 253/72, bolt 14/10, ice 0/0
8. Number of climbing hours 65, days 5

Passport

I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Zaalaysky range, Turkestan Range, Kara-su river gorge. 3. Peak: peak 4230 from the West along the wall. (ASAN) 4. Proposed — 6 cat. diff., first ascent. 5. Height difference — 890 m, length — 1188 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 826 m, length of sections 6 cat. diff. — 654 m, average steepness of the main part — 79°, average steepness of sections R4–R53 — 81°, average steepness of sections R31–R53 — 83°. 6. Pitons driven

Ascent Record

1. Turkestan Range, Pamir-Alay region, Karavshin-Karasu gorge, №5,4,3 according to KVGK
2. Peak Asan (4230 m)
3. Pogorelova route via the left part of NW wall, 6A category of complexity
4. Route type: rock
5. Route elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1100 m Section length: V category of complexity 625 m, VI category of complexity 345 m Average steepness of the route: 78°
6. "Hooks" left on the route: total 2, including 2 pitons