I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: North-West Tian Shan, Talas Alatau range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — South Manas 4512 m, via the north face of the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1000 m. Length of sections 5–6 km/tr. 365 m, average steepness 60°.
6. Pitons used: for rock protection — 65; for creating rock ITO — 4.
7. Total climbing hours: 30 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one night on the wall, semi-reclined for four people.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — NW Tian Shan range, Talas Alatau range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — South Manas 4512 m via the right buttress of the north face of the eastern ridge
4. Expected category of difficulty — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 650 m Length of sections 5–6 km/tr. — none, average slope 45°–50°
6. Pitons hammered in: for rock protection 19, ice screws 6, for creating anchor belay rock 1

47² μ⁸ μ/2

Djoung Manas (4512 m) via the Eastern ridge (from the col) via the route 4A cat. diff. Exit from the "May nights" camp at 3300 m, movement along the glacier, crossing it diagonally, towards the col — 1 hour. Before ascending to the col, it is necessary to rope up:

• Sharp altitude gain
• Hard firn
• Slope steepness up to 45–50° Reaching the ridge at 3850 m. Beginning of the route. Exit through a crevasse onto a gendarme — 20 m, intermittent belay. Descent via rocky outcrops — 30 m. Left along the ridge, climbing 3^a technical difficulty. Further ascent along the ridge — 30 m. The second gendarme is bypassed on the left via loose rocky slabs — 30 m, then along a snowy ridge — 50 m. A short descent, followed by an ascent along a snowy slope 35–40° — 150 meters. Movement along a snowy ridge with a steepness of 25–30° — 200 meters. To the right remains a reddish granite tooth — 10 m. Further:

3. The summit, its height, ascent route — Dhante Manas 4512, eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3rd category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections 1-5 cat. diff., average steepness in degrees — height difference 1200 m, length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — 300 m, II cat. diff. — 200 m, IV cat. diff. —
6. Number of pitons driven for protection to create artificial support points: local — 13 pcs., ice — none, rock — none
7. Number of travel hours — 12
8. Number of nights, and their characteristics — none
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification: | Participant | Petra­shko | G.A. | — Master of Sports | | ----------- | ---------- | ---- | ------------------ | | -"- | Muka­nov | K.B. | — 1st sports rank |

The exit to the route is carried out from the overnight stay at 3300 — DMaiskie nochyovki on the moraine of the Manas glacier. On the right side of the glacier, we approach the NE wall of p. Bashkyn Manas. To the west of the wall, a saddle is visible. Ascent to the saddle:

• Takes 1.5 hours.
• Must be done early in the morning with crampons. From the saddle, the route goes along the snowy ridge to a gendarme 7–10 m high, which is passed directly, medium-difficulty rocks (careful belay). Further, the route goes along a rocky, destroyed ridge 35–40°, gendarmeries encountered on the way are bypassed on the right along the way via easy rocks. 40–45 minutes after the start of movement from the saddle — a gap 2 m wide (pitons belay). Then movement along the ridge, consisting of large-block stones, to the summit tower 20–25 m high.

2. Region of ascent, ridge — C-3 Tian-Shan Talass­ky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pikovyy Manas 4512, traverse via N ridge. 4th category 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2A
4. Characteristics of the route: height difference, length of sections with 1–5 cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 1200 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 1400 m, II cat. diff. — 650 m — II cat. diff. — 20 m
5. Number of pitons driven for belay to create reliable anchor points: rock — 3 pcs., ice — none, bolt — none
6. Construction of via ferrata — 8
7. Number of nights and their characteristics — none

Departure from the 3300 "May overnight stay" site, which is located on the left-bank moraine of the Manas glacier. Departure from the assault camp at 7:00. The approach to the route goes along the left-bank moraine. The route starts with a wide scree couloir, which descends from the East Ridge. The couloir is passed in 2 hours. The entrance to the ridge is a landmark - an inclined slab. Behind the slab, a sharp snow ridge begins - I5, 20 m. Between it and the inclined slab is the first checkpoint. Here, tie in, insurance is alternate through ledges and ice axe. On the ridge, there is a group of rocks that are bypassed on the left. Movement - 3 hours. Before reaching the big gendarme, traverse the slope from the left side along rocks of medium difficulty with a descent into a wide snow couloir. Careful insurance through ledges and rock pitons. Further ascent along the couloir to the snow saddle - 2 hours. From the saddle, exit to rocks of medium difficulty (40 m), insurance through ledges and pitons. From the rocks, exit to the snow dome (100 m) and the summit. Descent along coarse-block scree to the saddle between Bashennый Manas and Manas Glavny. Total travel hours - 11 hours.

2. Climbing technique, ridge —
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Манас, 4482 m, eastern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2B
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections I–V cat. diff. average steepness in degrees — height difference 100 m, avg. steepness 40°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 500 m, II cat. diff. — 500 m, III cat. diff. — 100 m
6. Pitons driven for insurance to create artificial support points: local — 5, loop — 2, bolt — none
7. Difference in travel hours — II
8. Number of nights, and their characteristics — none

The approach from the "Майские ночёвки" bivouac. From the campsite, ascend to the North ridge. Further movement is upwards along the ridge, sticking to either the left or the right side. On average, after one hour of walking, two massive gendarmes are encountered (one after another), before which it is necessary to rope up. Then:

• A small saddle
• Control cairn I (landmark - a high finger-shaped rock) Further movement is along the ridge, with a rapid gain in altitude. Against the sky above, a massive gendarme in the form of a trident can be seen, 80-100 meters to the left of the route, which is approached by the Northeast ridge. The approach to the base of the gendarme is via moderately difficult rocks. A small wall, 2-2.5 m high, is tackled directly head-on. Then, the entire massif of the gendarme is traversed from the left along inclined ledges (in the autumn-winter period, these are snow-covered), 10-12 m - a bumpy section, with piton belays. From the inclined slabs, there is an exit onto a sharp rocky outcrop, about 4 m high. There is a small platform for organizing a belay. Then, along the crumbling rocks of the ridge, 15-20 m to the descent point to the base of the snow-ice dome of the summit. The descent is via a rappel dolipher, 10-12 m with a steepness of 70°. There is a possibility to organize a descent with subsequent rope retrieval through a protrusion.

2. Climbing area, ridge — С-3 Tian-Shan Talas Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Manas, 4482 m, northern ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2Б
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections 1–5 cat. diff. average steepness deg. — height difference 1000 m, avg. steepness 30°, length of sections: I cat. diff. — 950 m, II cat. diff. — 350 m
6. Number of hooks for belay to create artificial support points: local — 5, ice — 2, bolted — none