Description of the route by sections

R0–R3. Start of the route. Approach to the bastion via firn and ice. Then a series of internal corners and walls, exit to a ledge. Control cairn.

R3–R8. Very complex rock section. Limited crack selection and small holds. In winter, it is passed exclusively using artificial climbing techniques (ИТО). Key location of the route.

R6–R16:

  • Approach to an internal corner and chimney via a rock ledge.
  • Difficult climbing. Movement using ИТО.
  • Then via walls and "ram's foreheads".
  • Exit to convenient and safe sites. Overnight stay.

Section I6 — 2I. Approach to the upper key section via rock walls. Difficult climbing, rock cornice. Movement using ИТО. Exit to a bastion.

Section 2I — 25. Snow-ice slope, then via rocks of 3–4 cat. sl. Exit to the summit.

Descent via the eastern couloir of III cat. sl. to Uchitel Glacier.

Sources

Comments

Sign in to leave a comment