Report

on the ascent to Jigit Peak (5170 m) via the north face, made on August 13-20, 1965, by the Chelyabinsk Region team competing in the USSR championship in the category of high-altitude technical routes. Jigit Peak (5170 m) is located in the axial part of the Terskey-Alatoo ridge and closes the Kokbor valley, 60 km south of Przhevalsk town. The Kokbor River is a right tributary of the Karakolka River. A truck can reach the 19 km mark along the Karakol valley. Further on, for 21 km, there is a good horse trail. The last 11-12 km to the tongue of the Jigit Glacier are shepherd's trails. Loads are relayed from the end of the motorable road. Jigit Peak is the second-highest peak in the ridge; the main peak, Karakolsky Peak (5281 m), is located approximately 8-9 km to the west (see the orographic scheme, Fig. 1). Jigit Peak, like all surrounding peaks, is composed of granites, which in many places are enriched with spars. It drops to the north with a wall, against which two buttresses, the northern and northeastern, rest, the latter being bifurcated in the lower part. The northern buttress merges with the wall at a height of approximately 4370 m. Jigit Peak was climbed twice: in 1939, a group led by V.I. Ratsek made the first ascent via the eastern ridge; in 1957, a group of instructors from the "Metallurg" alpine camp (Talgar) led by M.P. Menyailov traversed from Karakolsky Peak to Jigit Peak (descending via the route of the first ascenders). No attempts to climb via other routes had been made until then. Any route to the summit of Jigit Peak is of sporting interest.

Ascent Log

1. Kyrgyzstan, Tian Shan, Teskey Ala-Too, category "7.10.(41)" according to the classification table
2. Peak name: Jigit (5170 m), route name: via the north face (Ryabukhin, 65)
3. Proposed category: 6A
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1170 m (by altimeter); including wall section: 970 m. Route length: 1292 m. Length of sections: category V — 249 m, category VI — 185 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 72°, entire route — 68°.
6. Pitons left on the route:

Ascent Passport

Climbing Area: technical Range: Central Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too Range Peak, its height, ascent route: Jigit, 5th category, via the North face Proposed difficulty category: 5B Route characteristics: height difference: 1500 m average steepness: 70° length of sections: 5–6 cat. diff., 770 m

Passport

1. Technical class
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge
3. Peak Jigit 5170 m, via the north wall
4. Difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1230 m,
   • route length — 1650 m,
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1083 m,
   • average steepness of the main part of the route — 67°.

PASSPORT

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak "Dzhigit", via the north face — 5B category
4. Route by A.G. Ryabukhin, climbed in 1965
5. Height difference: 998 m, length — 1177 m. Length of sections with 5 category difficulty — 397 m. Average steepness of sections — 60°
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :-: |

II category

Technical category I 2. Terskey Ala-Too, Karakol gorge 3. Peak Jigit via the right part of the North face 4. Proposed — 6 cat., first ascent 5. Height difference from the bergschrund 1070 m, total route length 1125 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. 705 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 75° 6. Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | nuts | ice |

RSFSR Climbing Championship

First Ascent Category 1984

Report

on the ascent of Peak Dzhigit 5170 m via the right part of the North face first ascent team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Sports Committee Team Leader: Antipin S. M. Coach: Sereda V. A. Gordeev V. I. Mozharov N. P.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, 7.10
2. Object — Jigit peak, 5170 m, via the "sickle" of the northern wall (V. Penchuk, 1973)
3. Complexity category — 5B
4. Route character — combined (actually — ice and snow)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1270 m route length — 1250 m (wall section) + 550 m (ridge section) length of sections with 5th category of complexity — 1050 m average steepness of the wall section — 52°

ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Terskey-Ala-Too ridge, Karakol region.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their altitudes: ascent to Peak Jigit via the western ridge (5170 m).
4. Ascent description: altitude difference 1170 m, average steepness — 34°, route length — 2650 m.
5. Pitons used: rock — 19, ice — 8, bolted — (dash).
6. Total climbing hours — 13.
7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
   • 1st — western ridge, in a "Pamirka" tent.
   • 2nd — on a plateau, in a "Pamirka" tent.

Ascent Log

1. Region of ascent:
2. Tian Shan,
3. Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Karakol gorge
4. Peak Dementyev 4202 m via the north slope of the eastern ridge
5. Proposed 3A category of difficulty. First ascent.
6. Nature of the route — combined
7. Route elevation gain 500 m (by altimeter)
8. Route length 800 m
9. Used on the route: ice screws — 15, rock pitons and protection gear — 0, bolt hangers — 0