Оya­tsa ma­pu­rya­ta­po sections

Sect. 3. The start of the route is to the right of a pronounced rocky outcrop. The bergschrund wall is 3–5 meters. Then, along the icy slope, along the rocks to the right of K. Kelyugin's route, up the S wall, 3rd grade. Belaying:

• through ice screws Movement:
• on a double rope
• with the use of ice axes (French: piolet-traction is not mentioned but "айс-фи­фи" is translated as "ice fifis" or more likely "ice axes" in this context, but it is kept as "ice-fifi" or simply using "crampons" and tools for self-arrest) is not accurate here, so it is translated as "ice-fifi" Sect. 3. An ice step with a steepness of up to 60°, then under the rocks of the left side, the ascent is 16–20 meters. Belaying through ice screws, organization of handrails, rope handling to the first. In these areas, preliminary processing with 6 ropes. Sect. 3–6. Ice slope up to 55° along the rocky side. Entrance to the shoulder of the western counterfort. Before exiting to the shoulder, the steepness of the ice is up to 60°. Movement with the organization of handrails and rope handling to the first. Belaying through ice screws, using ice-fifi and ice axe. Control cairn in the area of section No.4. Sect. 8–10. Movement along the rocks, 3rd cat. diff., exit to the cushion of the Korona glacier and further along the route 3A cat. diff. to the Korona (I-ya) summit. Alternating and simultaneous movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks. On the shoulder of the western counterfort — a control cairn. Sect. 10–12. Along the icy slope with a steepness of 40–45°, exit to the saddle between the I-st and II-nd towers. From the saddle, 1.5 ropes to the summit. Alternating movement, belaying through ice screws, rock pitons, and chocks.

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyzsky Range. 3. Peak Korona (1st), 4810 m, via the ice wall 3 cat. complexity, ice and snow route. 4. Estimated cat. complexity — LA 5– (winter), first ascent. 5. Height difference: 1360 m. Wall section height difference — 600 m. Total length — 1995 m. Wall length — 770 m. Length of sections with 5 cat. complexity — 610 m. Average steepness — 53° (3450–4050 m). 6. Pitons driven: rock 9, chocks 18, ice screws 110 7. Climbing hours: 14.5 hours; days — 2 8. Overnights: 1st in a hut on Uchitel glacier (processing).

Ascent report for the first ascent of the route to Pik Korona 1st Tower via the north face (ice gully).

Ascent Details

1. Tian Shan, Kyrgyz Ala-Too range, Ala-Archa valley. Pik Korona 1st Tower, 4810 m, via the ice gully on the north face. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent. Route type: ice. Elevation gain: 800 m. Route length: 1050 m.
2. Section lengths: I — 400 m, II — 100 m, III — 350 m, IV — 100 m, V — 100 m,
3. Average slope: main part of the route — 55° Total route — 45°

Ко­ро­на (1-я), 4810 м becomes Korona (1-я), 4810 m

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Approach to the route from the side of the Учи­тель glacier from Ratzek hut — 3 hours. Move along the central moraine of the Учи­тель glacier in the direction of a clearly visible peak in the western ridge of Ко­рона (1-й), to the right of the Плотни­ков route. Section R0–R1. From the bergschrund move up and left along the несложному ice in the direction of a clearly visible ice couloir. 150 m, 40°, III. Section R1–R2. Up the ice couloir to the beginning of несложного combined climbing. 40 m, 65°, IV. Section R2–R3. Move along the ice and несложным rocks first left and up, then right and up in the direction of the ice rivulet. 70 m, 65°, IV. Section R3–R4. Up the ice rivulet to the snow field in front of the rock step. 50 m, 70°, IV+. Section R4–R5. Traverse right along the snow-ice field to the rock step. 50 m, 40°, III. Section R5–R6.

In the western spur of the 1st tower of the Corona, there is a separate peak (height 4300 m). The Northeast wall of this peak drops 500 meters towards the Uchitel glacier. We laid out the route along the most logical path on the wall. The "Discovery" route starts with a steep avalanche-prone ascent under the bergschrund, and then follows ice couloirs through a short rocky belt to the western ridge of the peak. The route is interesting from an educational perspective. Here, in miniature, various terrain types are encountered, and techniques for winter mixed climbing on rocks and ice couloirs are mastered. In case of difficulties, it's always possible to descend. One of the highlights of the route for us was the long ridge, where we constantly had to climb somewhere. If we compare the route to other 4B routes in the area, it's more challenging than the popular 4B on Baychechek through the "snot". Sections similar to the key "snot" are encountered early on in the route. Such mixed sections are more characteristic of 5A (the "Mobilnykh" route on Corona). However, due to the route's relatively short length, I would categorize its difficulty as 4B rather than 5A. The route was completed in a day. All sections were climbed using free climbing; we left no hardware or rope loops behind, as we descended via a couloir (near the Plotnikov 5A route) to the Koronsky glacier. This variant added difficulties with a lengthy traverse, but ultimately, we managed without rappels. I would recommend climbing this route exclusively in winter. In the summer, it's likely to be heavily rockfall-prone. On the R2–R3 section The beginning of the rocky step