Central Tian Shan

Mountain range168,596.15 km²
SummitMateSSummitMate
November 15, 2024
3

A description of the ascent route to the summit, divided into sections, with illustrations and a detailed analysis of technical difficulties.

Section 8

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Route Description: 3 гребню

SummitMateSSummitMate
17 days ago

Description of the route section "Tian Shan, Khan Tengri, north-eastern edge", category of complexity 6A.

Section 12

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Description of the first ascent of a combined route of 4B category of difficulty to the summit of Bailiang-Bashi (4700 m) in the North Tien Shan.

PUBLIC ORGANIZATION 8–7.229 (4А)

Tyumen Regional Federation of Alpinism

Tyumen, phone: 89222621340 Web: www.tyumen-alp.ru, E-mail: teent@bk.ru Outgoing letter dated October 1, 2008, No. 56 Dear colleagues! We ask you to review and take into consideration the report of the TRFA team, which made the first ascent of the route to the summit of Baylyan–Bashi, presumably category 4B. The report is attached. President of TRFA T. T. Gainullin

Ascent Passport

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Description of the ascent route to the summit via the North wall, category 5A difficulty level, with traverse and overnight stays.

Photo MII General photo of the summit —

  • team route
  • route via N.face, 5A cat. diff.
  • route via N.W. face
  • traverse 5Е cat. diff.
  • δ — control tower
  • (○) — overnight locations The photo was taken on July 13, 1964, at 7°0, lens "Industar" 26 M, F=5 cm, distance to the summit 2 km, point M2, 3650 m.
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Description of the route to the summit with a photo panorama of the area, details of the path and technical characteristics of the 1984 shot.

Photo 14. Photopanorama of the area. — M-T KOMANDN, — M-T NO S.ST. SA K.SA., — M-T along N.W. face, traverse, 55 km. The photo was taken on July 11, 1984 at 11:15, lens "Helios 44 M", F = 5 cm, distance to the summit 2 km, point 14, 4000 m.

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Description of the route to the summit of Ba­üa 8, including technical information and photographs.

Baüa 8

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Report on the first ascent of the route "Road Home" on the North-West wall of the peak Bailan (1st), 4700 m, in the Central Tian Shan, made by the team of the Faculty of Physical Education and Sports of Sverdlovsk region in 2010.

  1. Peak Bailyan (1st), 4700 m, via northwest wall, 2010 (first ascent)
  2. As a two-person team
  3. Central Tian Shan. Kyrgyz Range. Aksai gorge.
  4. Section in Classification 7.4

Report

on the first ascent of the team of the Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing of Sverdlovsk Region (FAiS Sverdlovsk Region) on Peak Bailyan (1st), 4700 m, route "Doroga domoy" (Road Home), via the northwest wall.

  • Cat. difficulty: 5Bz

Addresses

620092, Yekaterinburg, Novgorodtseva st., 9/3, apt. 17 Dashkevich Sergey Aleksandrovich

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Description of the assault group's route to the summit via the Baylan — Bashy pass, indicating the path and tactics of the ascent.

View of Baylan — Bashy from peak Box (jupiter-11). Base camps .... the path of the assault hauptgroup - UNCLIMBED 47-grade routes

  • no2EbkI
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Report on the first ascent of the 4A category route to the peak Baichechekey via the center of the northern ice slope.

Report on the First Ascent of the Route to Peak Baychechekay via the Center of the Northern Glacial Slope

Ascent Passport

  1. Tian-Shan, Kyrgyz Range, Ala-Archa gorge Peak Baychechekay, 4515 m, via the center of the northern glacial slope (from the couloir) Proposed category: 4A, first ascent. Route type: ice-snow. Height difference: 450 m. Route length: 650 m
  2. Section lengths: II category — 150 m, III — 350 m, IV — 150 m
  3. Average slope: main part of the route — 45° Total route — 40°
  4. Number of "cruxes" left on the route: total — 0
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Ascent to the summit of Baychechekey (4515 m) in Kyrgyz Ala-Too via a snow-ice route, category 5A.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: technical. 2. Ascent region: Kyrgyz Ala-Too, Ak-Sai gorge. 3. V. Baichechekei, 4515 m, via the icy chute of the Western wall, ice route, winter ascent. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — approximately 5A. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — wall section — 320 m, total — 600 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 225 m, average steepness of the wall section — 65° 6. Number of pitons driven: ice screws — 48, fixed elements — 5

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